1986 Ranger 2.3 gas-putting & stalling after replacing spark plugs, etc.

[bozo4ford]

Hi fellow rangers,

[ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California ]

Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter,spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California Emissions)

The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking?????
A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.

So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?

Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the Ranger section. Check your firing order, and the vacuum lines. It's possible that some of the wires got mixed up or a vacuum line got disconnected.

 

[bozo4ford]

Thanks BrooklynBay!
So I guess I should always check my spark gap, regardless of what I buy. How long should the Fuel sensor or relay last? I will go check my vacuum lines and firing order on the dist. cap.

I had a scare though before I replaced the plugs, I disconnected the big Hose going over my valve cover and into the Air filter system and also that somewhat bendable or formed aluminum coiled hose to make changing the plugs easier,and covered that opening from the manifold with a cloth, in case I dropped something down in there,and after removing the 4th (back) Spark plug with the wrench, I dropped it somewhere down before the engine over by the o2 sensor, but thought after driving it and noticed the sputtering , I thought maybe I had possibly dropped a spark plug down that manifold port....I looked everywhere for that missing plug,still haven't found it, but hopefully, it fell off on my way to the store.

I will also call the auto parts store and make sure they gave me the right cap and rotor,they originally gave me a much taller cap and rotor,and thought that was way too big,and he then gave me the smaller cap/rotor.


I'd hate to think that I would have to replace the Distributor Module (under the cap/rotor,) like I’ve done many times before, a new Distributor coil, fuel relay, fuel filter, just to pass smog. Like I said before, this truck ran better than before I changes the Cap/rotor, air filter, and spark plugs.

I removed the newer Rotor I just replaced and noticed the top springy contact was pushed downward, so I just put my other one back on...still missing, and stalling out while (trying to) drive down the street.

Sorry about the winded reply, I'll post back after I do these tasks. Do you think I have to remove the plugs again and recheck the gaps? Thanks again!

 

[BrooklynBay]

They should be fine if the package says pregapped, and they weren't dropped during installation.

 

[bozo4ford]

I called the auto parts store and they told me those plugs and Cap/Rotor are the correct application..BUT he told me to pull the plugs and check to see if the tips are either real black or white, fouled out because of the concentrated octane booster in a half of tank of gas. Instead of autolite (AP5145) Platinum plugs, I should have gone with Motorcraft, not autolite.

Update Monday FEB. 8th, 1:00PM PST -

I pulled each of the autolite plugs and did not notice any white or black carbon, checked the gap,1,2,and 4th plug was gapped to .44, but the #3 plug was more than .44. A few years back I also replaced my distributor module with a FORD part.

I looked at the dist. coil plug wire and noticed some green oxidation on the coil tip, got some sandpaper, rolled it up, and stuck it inside the coil plug to clean the terminal inside, blew it out with air...that was a few days ago, and now it was more oxidation, could that mean I should try to replace just the Dist coil plug wire? I certainly don't want to buy all new plug wires.

There is a module that is on a metal slider between the air filter assembly and the truck body with a Black base with a white top connector w/4 wires ( 2 red,1 yellow,and one black) coming from a harness,and into that connector,(Part Number #E98b-2C013...I think) which the wires going into this piece looks pretty corrosive,and the locking connector with the (I think) fuel relay looks fine. is there anyway to get just the harness side, clip the 4 wires and replace this assembly piece" I took a picture,but no way to post the pic here.

In the same area, between the air filter assembly and the side of the truck next to a rectangular part # E7EF9F479-A2A, which I think is the Sensor Assembly for the manifold Absolute pressure module) is another one of these boxes with a Blue-ish green base and a black top with 1Black,3 yellow, and 1 red wire. There are no numbers on this.

So I'm tooling around looking for what might be a problem causing all this stalling and rough idling....I'll check in periodically. Thanks!

 

[bozo4ford]

I'd hate to think that I would have to replace the Distributor Module (ubder the cap/rotor, a new Distributor coil, fuel relay, fuel filter, just to pass smog. Like I said before, this truck ran better than before I changes the Cap/rotor, air filter, and spark plugs.

I removed the newer Rotor I just replaced and noticed the top springy contact was pushed downward,so I just put my other one back on...still missing, and stalling out while (trying to) drive down the street.

 

[bozo4ford]

Dist. Cap installed on wrong side?

I feel somewhat stupid here. OK. I am holding in my hand my old dist. cap. The two hold down screws are at the 9 and 3 o'clock position. The small black round thingie is on the right side of cap, next to the center Coil terminal on cap.(about the 3 o'clock position) I've always marked the positions of the firing order...

and this is what I'm looking at...

TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

OR... maybe when I put the cap back on this time, it was upside down,so the clockwise order would have been the correct 1-3-4-2, but this time with that black round plastic small knob is now on the left side of the cap,and not on the right side. Does it matter which side the black thing is on top of the cap, as long as the top left is 1,then going clockwise to 3,then 4,then 2? Shucks, if this is the reason, then I'm going hunting with dick Cheney!

Am I a complete klutz? No, you don't have to answer that, we have established that if this firing order is completely wrong.

So the correct firing order for my 1986 2.3L Gas,5-speed,4 banger ranger is 1-3-4-2 and not 4-2-3-1? It is no wonder that I am no mechanic. :-yeahrigh Doh!!! Thank you for your patience!:-X22

 

[bozo4ford]

*UPDATE (FEB.10, 2010 5:00 PM PST)
I went to the Library and checked out the Chilton Ford Ranger and Bronco II 1983-88 years. On page 62, the firing order states 1-3-4-2 clockwise. The illustration shows the two hold down screws at 11 o’clock position right next to the #3 Cyl.) And the other screw at the 5 o’clock, or between the # 2 and # 4th Cyl.) Looking straight as the picture is shown is
(top left) # 3 - # 4 (top right)
(bottom left) # 1 - # 2 (bottom right)
The #3 is closest to the back of the Alternator. I tried this timing order and it would not turn over, just sounded like a very bad cough and sound like bad timing. When I hooked up my original way with the #4 closest to the back of the alternator, then #2, then bottom right is #1, then bottom left is #3, at least it would lick over and idle for about 30 seconds before it stalled out.

I also tried the top left-#1, #3, #4, #2 and that also sounded terrible, (BUT IS THE RECOMMENDED FIRING ORDER IN THE CHILTON REPAIR BOOK, and would not turn over. I’m afraid the more I play with this, the more I’m going to mess up my timing.
Which cap terminal does the # 1 start at??????

SOoooooo, Let’s try this. If anyone out there in Rangerland has a 1986 Ranger 2.3L gas. 4-Cylinder, 5-speed, can you please tell me starting from the cap’s terminal CLOSEST to the back of the alternator, what # Cylinder that is, then going clockwise, what is the remaining order? I thought for sure the book would make some sense of this, but the screw locations on the cap are weird. BTW, what is that small round black thing on top of the distributor, and does it matter which side it’s on? Right or left. Thanks again!

 

[bozo4ford]

Hiya –
Sunday 2- 14-2010

The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
towers is what I have now.

TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
Compartment. I called pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds involved for just the lay person.

1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
EFI
4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
Mileage – 151,4672


Let's say I replace the In-Line Fuel Filter along the rail. According the Chilton Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1988 Repair manual Pg.248, under "2.3L Engine frame -Mounted inline Fuel Filter", it has another paragraph under this "Purging Air and priming Fuel Filter" Do I have to do this, or just the replacement of the filter? Are there any other precautions I should be aware of?

 

[bozo4ford]

Idle Air control Valve - '86 Ranger 2.3L gas EFI

1986 Ranger 2.3L EFI 4 Cylinder 5-speed OD

Since it runs for about a less than a minute then stalls out, at first I'm thinking fuel filter, then fuel relay, but while steam cleaning the engine, before replacing plugs, rotor, cap, distributor cable, Air filter and gas cap, I may have disconnected, or the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE decided to suddenly go bad.

Although I haven't checked the idle Air control valve (IACV) I called a Gold Shield Auto repair shop and the guy told me to check the idle Air control valve, Air mass, Map Sensor. He also told me that the fuel filter should not be suspect, and to check other areas first.

In order for me to get the “Smog Test Only” done, Calif. Emissions is to have a constant idling engine speed, and since it runs for about 35-45 seconds, then stalls out, I should increase the idle speed. ... BUT, in looking at the Chilton Repair book (Pg. 74) it states that my "engine has a Idle speed controlled by the TFI-IV/EEC-IV and no adjustment is possible." That said, can I still manually raise the idle speed enough to drive to get the smog done?

Even with this Chilton book, I can’t seem to locate the Map Sensor, or even the IACV, located somewhere near the intake manifold or what it even looks like.

 

[bozo4ford]

Idle Air Control Valve (Autozone - PART # TV200 $59.99) which to me looks identical to my picture of my “relay” photo link...But this location is on the left side of air filter box, passenger side, and close to the fender wall, and not near the throttle body, like everyone is telling me.

I also bought a PVC valve, (cheap) and looked everywhere on top, around and near the throttle body and can not find the location. I wonder if I have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it. The illustration at the auto parts store shows it on top of the intake manifold, and air filter, but this does not apply to my 86 Ranger, because my filter is over to the left, passenger side. I have a EFI, no carburetors.

Well today I removed the iacv, (idle air control valve) cleaned it the best I could with Carb Cleaner, and will reinstall tomorrow. The gasket looks surprising well for being 24 years old! So I do not need another gasket.

I also bought some CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, and wondered if anyone has ever used this on parts like my relay picture. Where the wires come into this relay from the harness looks pretty bad. Would this be safe to use on all electronic fusible links?

I’m not saying that cleaning the iacv and replacing the PVC valve will get my truck back to idle the way it was before, but after 24 years, it can’t hurt. I’m going to try to remove #1 spark plug and slowly crank engine until I feel air coming out of that cylinder, up stroke, pointing to the #1 in the Distributor, then check the firing order again...maybe that’s all this problem is after all.

I could replace the TFI Module, PVC, IACV, or other components without ever fixing this stalling problem at all!

 

[dtzogman]

Greetings,

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I have seen this problem more than once after someone used an additive thinking that more is better.Actually a lot of these additives use very strong solvents and will loosen rust,junk,etc.from the gas tank.Sounds to me like your guessing at things so what we need to do is organize some troubleshooting checks.Lets organize into 3 different catagories,Fuel,Air,Timing.Lets do fuel first since you added a additive.First I will let you know from my experience with additives Fuel injectors usually end up getting clogged.So,1 12oz.can of octane boost is for how many gallons?Does the octane boost contain alcohol?How many gallons is half a tank for your vehicle?Once you answer these questions we will move on.

 

[bozo4ford]

Greetings back atcha dtzogman,

No doubt this is always a daunting task troubleshooting the stalling issues,whereas it could be anything at all,so ok, first things first. I had about 1/2 gas tank for of 76 gas, and my tank holds about 16-18 Gals. I bought the STP 15oz. bottle that treats about 25 Gallons. So this additive was more potent than it should have been for as little gas was there. It's been on almost empty while I've been diddling around with it,checking hoses.Running it up and down the street. I had a few things are disconnected right now, so I got a ride to the gas station to get one gallon of gas. I know I'll need more.
As far as chemicals inside the booster? I don't know,that was trashed awhile ago.

This all started after I cleaned the engine one day, let dry,then replaced the 4 new plugs (.44), Cap/rotor,air filter, and distributor wire,which the old plug at the COIL had brown rust in the plug. I was careful, I thought to change each plug and wire separately to the DIST.,but maybe, just maybe mixed up the firing order. DUH!
So I know we are getting way ahead of this procedure, but I thought you should know what I've done so far.

Some say that the iacv is a common bad thing in these rangers,( I personally think the other bad things are the TFI Module, and fuel relay) but again, if this all started with me R & Ring the above items,then it's something I did, and doubt if the PVC or Idle Air Control Valve decided to stop working just like that.

So today I removed the idle air control valve (iacv) cleaned it the best I could with Carb Cleaner, and will reinstall tomorrow morning. The gasket still looks surprising well for being 24 years old! So I do not need another gasket.

I’m not saying that cleaning the iacv and replacing the PVC valve will get my truck back to idle the way it was before, but after 24 years, it can’t hurt. I’m going to try to remove #1 spark plug and slowly crank engine until I feel air coming out of that cylinder, up stroke, pointing to the #1 in the Distributor, then check the firing order again...maybe that’s all this problem is after all.
You're thinking ..what in the heck didn't you do that already?

I also bought some CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, and wondered if anyone has ever used this on parts like my relays, that are connected to the passenger fenderwall,where the wires come into this relay from the wire harness that looks pretty bad. Would this cleaner be safe to use on all electronic fusible links, inside and out on soldered contacts? OR is this also snake oil?

Vacuum tree -
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=27041

IACV -
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=27040

 

[dtzogman]

Greetings,

Have you done a thorough visual inspection?Checked all the vacuum lines and electrical connections.Are you able to pull codes?Test fuel pressure?I use the CRC cleaner with good results so far.Yes,bring the#1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor is pointing to spark plug wire #1.Firing order is 1342 clockwise.If none of this works then I would start with a fuel pressure test.By the way, does the exhaust smell funny?Rotten eggs or black smoke?I just can't help but think that additive screwed up parts of the fuel system.Keep me posted o.k.?

 

[RangerX]

I am not allowed to post any photos here,or I could have showed you what these relays look like.

You can post photos here, just link them from another site.

 

[bozo4ford]

Hi,
Should I try to replace the PVC before the smog test, right now it's finally idling enough by itself for a smog test.

Well,
I had mentioned that I was going to remove the Idle Air Control Valve, I did, and cleaned a lot of carbon build-up from both the ports and plunger with carb cleaner, and also thankfully, the gasket looked pretty good after 24 years...that's right, I didn't stutter, the blue bomber has celebrated it's 24th year of haulin' my sorry butt all over the place.

After re-installing the valve, and buying yet another distributor cap, It appears to be idling by itself, so the moment of truth is today when I take my Blue Bomber in for that dreaded California every-other-year smog test only, it would redeem myself for yet another two years of bliss, unless I win the lotto, junk this ride and get a new truck!

BIG QUESTION….Will she pass or fail?

My mercy lays solely with the ford smog gods.....BUT if it fails, then its back to the drawing board. I will post again today with the news. Stay tuned if you would like. Have great day!

 

[bozo4ford]

Thank you all for following this link and helping me out. Smog passed! Yippee!
This CA. emissions Smog is BIG Business here.
After cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve, Air Control Bypass or (iacv), she started running better and by herself for 20 minutes last night, and then again today I ran it for about fifteen minutes to be sure it would stay alive (self idle) long enough for a smog.

BUT, as my luck would have it, I was leaving the driveway on my way to go get the smog, then it started stalling again, so now I was then on my way to the mechanic for a diagnostic instead.

I went to get gas, and had it idle by itself again, then thought I'd take a chance and get it to the smog center. Well, IT PASSED! He told me that after 24 years, the iacv maybe should be replaced and not just cleaned, and that may take care of this intermittent stalling, which mostly happens in the morning before it warms up.

I showed the smog tech the pvc valve I bought, and we both looked for where this could possibly go in my truck. He even couldn't find where it goes, he said that part was probably the wrong part, and once I open the can of worms and install the new pcv, I run the risk of leaking oil, so basically if it runs, don't fix it.

In closing, he said that PVC probably is a non-issue compared to other things that could possibly lead to the stalling. O2 sensor I replaced two years ago. I will keep in mind that the EGR might be the next step, as well as thinking about replacing the iacv. Maybe the plunger is sticking. Ummm..what else would be possible scenarios for the stalling on these trucks?

Thank you for your feedback!

 

[RangerX]

Glad it passed! You're good for two more years.

 

[bozo4ford]

Ranger....dtzogman,
I'm glad it passed too!

I've done the visual inspection,checked all the vacuum lines and electrical connections.I do not have a code reader,so no, no pulling codes?
Test fuel pressure? No.

I called the CRC cleaner company, and told me not to spray the fusible link where the wires are soldered into the small boxes,because they will loosen up the flux,then wires will disconnect. So you must be taking about when you disconnect the electrical components and spray the inside like Dieletcric grease to better contact?

I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
You said the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
Thankfully, it kept running (self idling) yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again. I ran it hard on the freeway to the smog to really warm it up,and no problems on the way home,then after it sat for a few hours, I went to get the mail, and there is that stalling and the truck started going "bronco" and shaking unless I apply gas to the pedal.

That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?

For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.

IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >

FORD DEALER - $103.04,
THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
& AUTOZONE - $60.00

So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass) Or maybe it's fuel.

the CRC use in question -
Relays -
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=27039

 

[RangerX]

I'm no code reading expert, and I don't even play one on TV : but I believe the code readers are really made for OBDII vehicles, which are '95 and up, I think. Your old Ranger, if it has codes to read, can be read with just a paper clip and a paper and pencil. Search around here for info, or just PM Tbars, he knows all about it.