1987 Ranger starter/electrical problems

[JimmynCalifornia]

This is my first post, I apologize that it is so longwinded, but I am up against a wall.

1987 Ford Ranger.
2.0 Engine, manual transmission


I don't know if these events are related, or coincidental, but as I remember it-

Once, the ignition switch wouldn't go to the "off" position.
I had to remove the switch tumbler assembly from the steering column, free it up, and remove the key.
It seemed to work fine after that, and this particular symptom never happened again.

Sometime after, I had a starting problem, and my mechanic replaced the starter.
Within weeks, it wouldn't start again, and he installed a second starter, flywheel (perhaps clutch) and solenoid.

Within weeks, it again wouldn't start, and he put another solenoid in.
Shortly after, it started, but made a terrible clashing sound, not dissimilar to when you accidently engage the started while the engine is running. I believe we had to pull the battery cable to make it stop.

He replaced the Bendix.

The next time it wouldn't start, he replaced the solenoid.
The next day, it wouldn't start with the key, but we could start it by bridging the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver.

Obviously, I could also push start it (love manual transmissions!).

Shortly after, it started with the key, but the clashing noise happed again, and I was able to stop it by flicking the clutch in and out while in first gear.

Occasionally, I would start it, just to test it but didn't have to regularly drive it.
But the next time I drove it for about 20 miles, parked it, and 15 minutes later, it wouldn't start, it just clicked like a weak battery.
Because the replacement solenoid had opposite terminals, I couldn't use the screwdriver.

A few days later, the key started it right up, I drove it for 45 minutes, parked, and within minutes, I tried to start it again.
I just got a click, click, click , and smoke started pouring out from underneath the engine. Turning the key off didn't help, it continued clicking and smoking for a few minutes until I removed the battery cable.

I am no mechanic, but I suspected that because it would start by bridging the solenoid with the car in neutral, that one part of the problem could be in the ignition switch mechanism or the clutch neutral safety switch.
The clashing sound after starting, and the burning after the switch was turned off suggested something in the springy thing that brings the ignition switch back to "ON" from "START". Perhaps it wasn't springing back all the way.

On this and other forums, I have seen references to the ignition switch actuator.
I have seen suggestions about the starter/flywheel relationship, to both shim and unshim the starter.
I have seen suggestions about wiring errors causing current drop, improper ground, and inadvertent terminal connections.
I have seen suggestions that there are different starters for manual and automatic transmissions.


It could be all of this, but I need an intelligent roadmap before I start having random parts replaced.
I have been through two starters, one bendix, four solenoids, and three AAA tow trucks.


Please help.
Thanks in advance.

 

[SoHK_alumni]

Ignition switch itself would be my first guess.

Shims/spacers might account for the bendix not retracting but not for the "no starts" as you describe.

If there is a relay for the starter, that relay or its wiring could also be to blame.