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1992 explorer front diff upgrades>?


LOCKONS7RA7US

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hey all i just bought yukon gear posi trac rear diff 8.8 31 spline for the rear and was wondering if there is anything of the sort for the front diff of my explorer. or if its worth the time upgrading from stock .
 


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RangerX

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Not sure what all is available nowadays but there used to be many options, both limited slips and lockers. I first put a tracLok up front, then switched to LockRight locker.
Are you aware how much wrenching is needed to get the front diff apart?
 




LOCKONS7RA7US

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Not sure what all is available nowadays but there used to be many options, both limited slips and lockers. I first put a tracLok up front, then switched to LockRight locker.
Are you aware how much wrenching is needed to get the front diff apart?


Deep down i know its ganna be better to slam my nutz in a car door then **** with un doing the front diff... that being said since i have owned the car i havent maintenance it so im doing a complete over haul to make it a expedition suv . So im willing to put my 100% into making it great again . Any tips would be dope cause im putting in a james duff stage 3 suspension in so ill be ****ing with everything anyways
 




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Deep down i know its ganna be better to slam my nutz in a car door then **** with un doing the front diff... that being said since i have owned the car i havent maintenance it so im doing a complete over haul to make it a expedition suv . So im willing to put my 100% into making it great again . Any tips would be dope cause im putting in a james duff stage 3 suspension in so ill be ****ing with everything anyways

Profanity filter is doing its job, lol.

Remember that the front diff on a first gen is REVERSE rotation, so if you are gearing up make sure to make that distinction. I think there is also a carrier break around 3.55 if I am not mistaken. And you will have to pull the whole front suspension to do the diff, but if you are installing the JD stage 3 it sounds like you will be doing that anyway.
 




410Fortune

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i have had an ARB locker in my 93 explorer front diff for over 15 years. She is running yukon 4.10 ring and pinion with a early arb locker for the reverse rotation dana 35 carrier. I love having a front locker!! you can really get into trouble with two locked diffs and 35": tires in a BII
 




LOCKONS7RA7US

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Profanity filter is doing its job, lol.

Remember that the front diff on a first gen is REVERSE rotation, so if you are gearing up make sure to make that distinction. I think there is also a carrier break around 3.55 if I am not mistaken. And you will have to pull the whole front suspension to do the diff, but if you are installing the JD stage 3 it sounds like you will be doing that anyway.

Gotta make sure the filter stays on its toes thanks for the info i didnt know most of the info you just through out so thanks.
 




LOCKONS7RA7US

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i have had an ARB locker in my 93 explorer front diff for over 15 years. She is running yukon 4.10 ring and pinion with a early arb locker for the reverse rotation dana 35 carrier. I love having a front locker!! you can really get into trouble with two locked diffs and 35": tires in a BII


With arb lockers dont i need a air system to run those sounds like a hassel
 




410Fortune

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yes air pump
I mounted mine under the hood next to the radiator
Been sitting there working for 15+ years
They build some tough stuff, ARB air compressors are really stout
Nice to be able to fill tires and tubes from under the hood
open differential in the snow, then fully locked when needed
 




LOCKONS7RA7US

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yes air pump
I mounted mine under the hood next to the radiator
Been sitting there working for 15+ years
They build some tough stuff, ARB air compressors are really stout
Nice to be able to fill tires and tubes from under the hood
open differential in the snow, then fully locked when needed



just by a flip of a switch runs air and locks when you want hmmm.....🤔 and the ARB works well with other locker that arent it >? since i have a yukon posi in the rear
 




LOCKONS7RA7US

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Not sure what all is available nowadays but there used to be many options, both limited slips and lockers. I first put a tracLok up front, then switched to LockRight locker.
Are you aware how much wrenching is needed to get the front diff apart?

what was the model number you used for the front diff from lock right locker
 




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imp

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hey all i just bought yukon gear posi trac rear diff 8.8 31 spline for the rear and was wondering if there is anything of the sort for the front diff of my explorer. or if its worth the time upgrading from stock .
Any kind of limited slip diff is not recommended for the front. Not safe. However, I recommend strongly the True-Trac or Torsen type.
 




410Fortune

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a front locker works just fine with a posi rear yes
 




RangerX

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Any kind of limited slip diff is not recommended for the front. Not safe. However, I recommend strongly the True-Trac or Torsen type.
This is not true at all! It is not unsafe. Plus your statements conflict, as trutrac and Torsen are both limited slips. Why do you recommend them if all LS’s are unsafe??
 




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For years I always thought that a locker in the rear (like a Detroit Locker or Lock Rite) with a selectable locker in the front (like an ARB or Eaton E-Locker) would have been the best case scenario. But in my last full size rig with a Detroit Locker in the rear and limited slip in the front, I found it did push quite a bit when off road, especially on loose, shale type material. So after watching this video, it got me to rethink my strategy on lockers and where to have the selectable unit if you're only running one, especially the difference in turning off road.
Now this may not be optimal for mudding, snow/ice, etc but I'm generally on narrow dry steep trails with a lot of switchbacks, etc.
I'm thinking E-locker in the rear, lunchbox locker in the front and manually locking hubs.

 




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This is not true at all! It is not unsafe. Plus your statements conflict, as trutrac and Torsen are both limited slips. Why do you recommend them if all LS’s are unsafe??
How do you figger true-trac and torsen are limited slips?

Not so at all; they are helically-geared units in which either axle may turn at it's own speed, while the worm-like gears rotate free in the diff carrier, making up fov the difference in side-to-side rotational speeds. NO?
 




RangerX

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How do you figger true-trac and torsen are limited slips?
Because they are not lockers and they are not open diffs, what else is there?
Also, because this:
7FB1D687-5109-49C1-BB21-5C66EAB70833.jpeg
96116A58-35EB-48DD-ABAF-08D6AC19F0AD.jpeg
 




BKennedy

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I had a ARB in the front before I solid axle swapped my 1994. It worked very well for many years. I bought it used off another old timer Explorerforum member who had it in his Explorer for at least ten years before I got it. I have had the same Detroit locker in the rear for about 15 years with no issues. I would not have anything but a selectable locker up front because I like to be able to steer. My solid front axle has had a Eaton Elocker since 2013 with no issues. The great thing about the ARB and Elockers is they are true lockers when activated and open when not. Not sure if there is a Elocker available for the reverse rotation D35.
 




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Putting a limited slip, auto locker, or any type of traction device in the front of one of these trucks with a live axle (no hubs) can be dangerous for sure, it will push and pull and effect steering...usually when you do not want it to. Especially in slick conditions like snow and ice....

If you have hubs well then a limited slip/full time locker up front might work well because you can leave one hub unlocked in the slippery stuff.

I personally drive my trucks in the snow and ice and on the highway, in town, etc. So I NEED an open front diff and 4wd.
 


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Because they are not lockers and they are not open diffs, what else is there?
Also, because this:View attachment 314845View attachment 314846
I am fully aware of your links. Also, be aware they loosely use the term "limited slip" out of context. If you examine the guts of torsen design, you will see the whole thing works by the fact that a WORM gear can easily drive a pinion gear, but a PINION gear cannot drive a worm gear without extreme torque applied. Torsen pinions do not drive any part, but rather are mounted to rotate within pockets in the diff carrier, spinning around with it. As one axle turns faster than the other, the pinions rotate to make up the difference, as they also are carried about the rotation of the diff carrier.no slippage, no clutches, strictly mechanical. And smooth.

Rather difficult to understand, I know. This video shows how the damned thing works. Look at it, see there is no "slip", until biased torque overcomes tire friction; then one tire will slip while the torsen is transmitting it's maximum design torque (don't happen often).

Because they are not lockers and they are not open diffs, what else is there?
Also, because this:View attachment 314845View attachment 314846

I get no enjoyment in trying to correct anyone, moderators included. I am only interested in explaining correct information. Please study the video.


 




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