1992 Explorer power loss under load after heat

[thowe2012]

Hey Y'all,
Here's the situation: 1992 Explorer starts fine and runs smooth as silk for about 15-20 mins or so ... then begins to bog under load (particularly climbing a hill), and the other night, it actually stalled after a fairly long trip, and warmer outside temps; it smells lean, not rich (no fuel smell at all), and the codes I pulled (see below) seem to indicate this ... new air filter, ALL new exhaust, from manifold back, new plugs and wires, and ALWAYS starts GREAT, but begins the fail process after running for a good bit! My suspicion is the fuel pump, as I have had 2 previous vehicles (GM) with identical symptoms ... if it was a spark problem or a plugged fuel filter, would it not run bad from the initial start? Possibly a sensor? ... here are the CEL codes:

116,114,116,114 ... 172,185,186,172,185,186
I sure don't wan't it to be the pump, as this is a giant PITA ... if anyone has some insight, I would greatly appreciate it!!! Thanks Tons!

 

[the_don]

116:coolant temp sensor out of self test range
114:intake air temp sensor out of self test range
172:O2 sensor lean, right side
185:mass air flow lower then expected
186:injector pulse width higher then expected

I would pull the positive side of the battery for a few hours, check the ground connections at the right fender next to the fuse block, the ground connection to the engine block(follow the neg side of the battery down to the block) and the ground connection next to the ecm under the right side kick panel.i would also check the main engine harness connections to the right and under the alternator for corrosion. then i would drive it 10 miles or so and see what codes im still getting.

 

[mr cribb]

I would pull the positive side of the battery for a few hours, check the ground connections at the right fender next to the fuse block, the ground connection to the engine block(follow the neg side of the battery down to the block) and the ground connection next to the ecm under the right side kick panel.i would also check the main engine harness connections to the right and under the alternator for corrosion. then i would drive it 10 miles or so and see what codes im still getting.

To add on to what Don said....

The ECM/ Computer there are 2 grounds right in its general vicinity.

However a good problem area to check would be the cannon plug looking item near the battery. (It is round and has 2 wires that connects to the negative terminal, and it plugs into the main harness.)

This is the ECM's main ground point.

Going off the fact that our rigs are over 20 years old, cables and wires break down by this point.

I actually replaced my negative cable in December 2014 with two cables. I did this as a preventative maintenance, and my terminals were looking a little crappy.



I used 14 gauge wire to repair broken wires and some 12-14 gauge (yellow terminals) with round ends to ground the cannon plug item I described earlier.