1993 3.0L Aerostar with starting issues. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1993 3.0L Aerostar with starting issues.

chris9999

New Member
Joined
February 3, 2024
Messages
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City, State
Columbus, MS
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 XLT Sport (?)
Hi, I purchased this vehicle from the motor pool of a local government body.
The vehicle was very inexpensive, so I don't mind spending a little bit. But I also don't want to be pumping
money into a hole.
The inside is a mess but usable. The underbody is beautiful. The exterior is a bit rough but not too bad.
I has 150k miles on it.

The first thing to note is that the cat converter has been hacked out with a sawzall,
so it is loud.

Starting: I hear the fuel pump run for just a brief period. I get a pop-off after a few revs.
I stop cranking. I crank again and it pops off a bit more.
I keep doing that, probably a dozen or more times and eventually it will fire and run smoothly then die.
And if I keep at it I can get it to run, particularly if I flutter the throttle a bit and keep it off of minimum idle.
When it isn't smooth it sounds like a drag racer engine, not in loudness but in hit/miss nature.
When it is smooth it actually sounds pretty good.

The intake: The molded intake hose has holes in it. I tried looking something up at the local auto parts stores and
nothing comes up except generic hoses. What do you all do?

I wanted to get as far as I could to see if it is worth doing the cat replacement or whatever. And when the
engine is running smooth it actually sounds good and it revs good. I'm interested in your thoughts.
 



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Hi, I purchased this vehicle from the motor pool of a local government body.
The vehicle was very inexpensive, so I don't mind spending a little bit. But I also don't want to be pumping
money into a hole.
The inside is a mess but usable. The underbody is beautiful. The exterior is a bit rough but not too bad.
I has 150k miles on it.

The first thing to note is that the cat converter has been hacked out with a sawzall,
so it is loud.

Starting: I hear the fuel pump run for just a brief period. I get a pop-off after a few revs.
I stop cranking. I crank again and it pops off a bit more.
I keep doing that, probably a dozen or more times and eventually it will fire and run smoothly then die.
And if I keep at it I can get it to run, particularly if I flutter the throttle a bit and keep it off of minimum idle.
When it isn't smooth it sounds like a drag racer engine, not in loudness but in hit/miss nature.
When it is smooth it actually sounds pretty good.

The intake: The molded intake hose has holes in it. I tried looking something up at the local auto parts stores and
nothing comes up except generic hoses. What do you all do?

I wanted to get as far as I could to see if it is worth doing the cat replacement or whatever. And when the
engine is running smooth it actually sounds good and it revs good. I'm interested in your thoughts.


More: I took the air intake pipe completely out, unplugged the mass air flow sensor.
I did a bit of cursory cleaning on the throttle body but it seems to be build into the intake so I can't take it out and clean it.

But! Starting it with no MAF and no intake it fired right up! So I think those holes in the intake are a real issue.
 






Is the oxygen sensor missing? Are the wires cut? I suspect that there are multiple codes with an illuminated check engine light.
 






The check engine light flashes on when starting (it's not burnt out) but is not on when running.
I think the O2 sensor is still there. I can't swear that the wires are intact.

IMG_20240204_094948408_HDR.png
 






Start by cleaning or replacing the maf sensor. The intake tubes are getting hard to find new. If I was replacing that tube, I'd either use a long piece of high temp rubber tube or abs plastic.
 






I saw aftermarket tubes in Autozone. Did you check EBay?
 






What about patching the holes with silicon and some hood duct tape wrap the whole pipe? At least might help for testing

It sounds to me like a weak fuel pump issue after you solve the big holes in the intake tube

Any air that enters the intake after the mas sensor makes it very difficult for the computer to adjust fuel and spark it is called “un metered air” so get those leaks fixed first thing.
 






Hi, an update!

I'm still running without an intake tube. But I haven't been running much.

I noticed that I had about two quarts more oil than expected.
So I investigated the auto transmission modulator valve and it did have fluid in the vacuum tube.
I replaced that. Changed the oil and the oil filter. I topped off the transmission fluid (about two quarts).

I still don't have a good intake and the sawed out cat converter is still gone. So it is a bit hard to start but it will eventually run.
The check engine light comes on. It is loud. All of that is expected.

But! I have another issue that probably is higher priority.

The transmission does not shift correctly. I was hoping it would get better after I sorted out the fluid level.
But apparently not. Reverse goes reverse. CircleD and D give some forward motion. 2 and 1 give forward motion.
Setting 2 appears to be a higher ratio than setting 1. CircleD and D both are like setting 1. In the 10-15 minutes I've
driven it, it has never automatically shifted while in CircleD or D. Both feel like they are stuck in 1.

I'm kind of hoping one of you folks will jump in and say there is some tube or sensor to replace, or a magic place to whack it with a hammer.
But if not, I think maybe my transmission is a goner.
 






Did you verify the metal pin was present when you replaced the vacuum modulator? If that was the first fluid change the transmission had, keep a good pair of walking shoes in the van.
 






Did you verify the metal pin was present when you replaced the vacuum modulator? If that was the first fluid change the transmission had, keep a good pair of walking shoes in the van.
I did find the pin and stuck it in the hole in the new modulator. It didn't seem like it had a solid landing spot in the transmission end. The modulator seated fine, but I kind of expected the pin to have a receptical, in-place feeling. Is it possible I messed up the insertion?
 






I did find the pin and stuck it in the hole in the new modulator. It didn't seem like it had a solid landing spot in the transmission end. The modulator seated fine, but I kind of expected the pin to have a receptical, in-place feeling. Is it possible I messed up the insertion?
The fact the transmission goes in 1st, that usually indicates the vacuum modulator or valve body. Some forum members have reported good luck with an adjustable modulator.
 






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