1993 Eddie Bauer Head Unit AM/FM/Cassette

[tmh620]

I have searched high and low for the answer to my question and was quite pleased to see all of the info listed on this site. I have read the Audio spec's post and still have a question.

I have the speakers and amp rack/subwoofer enclosure from a 93 Explorer EB. The head unit went to the dump with the vehicle. I am looking to use the components in my Bronco II. What I am looking to find out is this: Is the input to the main amplifier high level or low level? I can somewhat gather from the above mentioned post that it is a high level input, if the head unit puts out 15w/channel. Granted this is not the best equipment out there, but the price (free) was right and is an upgrade to my pioneer wizzer cone speakers....nuff said on that.

Anyone that knows, I would really appreciate the info, and if it is alright to post non explorer pics, I'd like to show off my BII a bit.

Thanks,
Todd

 

[Heath]

Well, first off let me welcome you to the site... Sure non X pics are welcome... After all the BII was the predecessor to the X...

As for your question I believe its a high level input... You may want to send a PM to cobrajeff and see if he can give you any info, or maybe he'll read this thread... He's a whiz when it comes to stock audio equipment...

 

[tmh620]

Thanks Heath, I appreciate the welcome and the info on cobrajeff. I am not in a huge hurry to tear my interior apart, so I will see if he reads and responds.

 

[cobrajeff]

The output from a Ford Premium DIN radio is LINE LEVEL - it must go through the Ford amp before going to the speakers. The base part number for the Premium Cassette radio is -19B165-; all Ford radios with this base part number require an external amplifier.

If the radio you are trying to use has a base part number of -19B132-, it is a "Midline" Ford cassette radio, and would not require an amplifier (and would NOT be compatible with the JBL amplifier system, either).

regards,

cobrajeff

 

[tmh620]

Hey Cobrajeff thanks for the response. Actually I am using a pioneer head unit not the factory bronco II unit. The part numbers I have are as follows, speakers-F17F-19A068BB (x4), and the amplifier/sub amp/subwoofer assembly part #'s F27F-18C807BA and F37F18C804 respectively. But my big concern was whether the input was high or line/low level. If it is low and I convert the connection from RCA type out put to the two wire per channel I will not harm the amplifier. If I was to use the "high" output from my head unit, it would undoubtedly blow the input circuitry of the amplifier. So now I know I have to pull it out and redo the wiring. That is not so bad since the interior is coming out as the weather warms...

Thanks again for the quick response. It is nice to see a site that people actually contribute. I will keep my eyes peeled for any info that may help all of you X owners, as I have access to alot of info, and things my inspectors see in the field that may be of interest to you all.

Later,

Todd

 

[Heath]

Todd, what do you do for work that gives you so much info???

 

[Creelove]

Before you redo your wriring, please read this: the Ford factory amplifier is designed to accept HIGH level inputs, not LINE level inputs. I know this because I just bought a Sony HU and decided to use an RCA type harness with my Ford factory amplifier. Not surprisingly the sound wasn't great and every time i changed the station, changed the track, or even muted it, I got an audible popping noise that was the same volume regardless of the volume on the HU. Obviously this was either a HU defect or a factory amplifier integration problem. So I called the 800 Sony help line and explained what was going on and the tech knew right away what my problem was: the Ford factory amplifier is designed to accept speaker level inputs, not line level (RCA) inputs. I'm not exactly sure of the difference between the signals (besides the voltage levels which should only affect the gain, not make a popping noise), but I believe it has to do with the DC bias on the signal. Anyway, I know Crutchfield sells a harness with an adapter for aftermarket HUs, but it's $50. You might try just running the speaker wires directly in, but I think the gain will be too high.

Your best idea is to buy the amp bypass kit and get rid of the Ford amp. It has AWFUL distortion (it has 10% THD compared to my Harmon/Kardon home receiver which has 0.05% THD) and isn't that powerful anyway.

Hope this saves you from rewiring your car.

 

[tmh620]

Hi All,

Thanks for all of the information. Although now I am not sure how I am going to move forward on this, not really a big deal though as it is a hobby and not a neccessity to have a little boom in the music. Besides, for all you young guys, I like to hear the music, not feel it .

To answer Heath's question, I am the vehicle inspection cooridinator for one of the "Big 3", can't say which...I review inspection reports/photos, approve and deny warranty claims, handle the paperwork gathering side of legal issues and am the sounding/beating board for participating dealers across the country (fun). I deal with service advisors to dealer principles on a daily basis,when they call me, swearing that their customer has maintained their vehicle according to the manufacturer's specifications, when the engine is full of sludge, or the trans fluid is burnt and full of clutch material. It is hard to approve a claim on a vehicle that has had no oil changes for 36k miles etc.

Not that I get on a soap box too often but for everyone who has a modified vehicle with an extended warranty, no matter who the mfg, most warranty companies WILL NOT approve repairs to modified vehicles, just something to keep in mind as you build your x's, if they are still under warranty...

It is a way to pay the bills and for my schooling, as Iam back to school at almost 40 years of age, getting a degree in teaching, for whatever that may be worth today.(hopefully something).

Later,

Todd