1994 Explorer Fuel Sending Unit Issues

[elmor353]

The fuel gauge in my daughter's Explorer has always read full. When you turn the key off, it will drop to 3/4's of a tank, but as soon as you turn it on, it pegs past full. I just replaced the fuel pump and sending unit and figured that would fix the gauge issue, but it still does the same thing. Any ideas?

 

[dcgerard]

The gauge in the dash may need to be replaced. It's a pretty easy swap, if it's anything like my tachometer was. It just plugged in like a wall socket once you get into the dash. The temp gauge will have to come out too, since they are on the same plate but I'm pretty sure you can take the gas gauge off separate once you have the plate they mount into out. Would be real easy to just buy them both anyways at a wrecking yard too.

 

[RangerX]

Mines done the exact same thing for 20 years now. I read here once that it’s a ground issue, and probably at the wiring at the fuel tank. But yeah I guess it could be in the dash too.
I’ve gotten by just fine by using the trip odometer as a gauge. I reset to zero when I fill the tank to full, and I know how many miles I get on a tankful, then I refill when I get close to that number.

 

[92exp4x4]

There is an anti-slosh module in the gauge cluster that evens out the reading on the gauge as you drive. I bet that is what has failed. It is a computer chip about the size of a half dollar within the cluster housing.

 

[elmor353]

Once I remove the instrument cluster, where is the anti-slosh module located? How do I remove it and where might I find a new one?

 

[Gmctyphoon]

This might help you find the problem.

 

[92exp4x4]

Once I remove the instrument cluster, where is the anti-slosh module located? How do I remove it and where might I find a new one?

It's been a while since I've had one out. I think its on the left side (as seated in the vehicle) of the white plastic housing that contains the gauges. You'll have to remove the dash trim, remove the screws for the gauge pod, pull it out so you can get your hands behind it and find the speedo cable. Feel around and squeeze the two tabs together on the head of the cable to release the cable from the back of the pod. The electrical connectors can be a little tricky, but some patience will get them apart with out breakage. They snap into the housing, to pinch the circuit membrane and allow electrical connection to the gauges. This will be clear when you see it. If I remember correctly, the anti slosh module is a small circuit board that clips into the housing from the back side.

I really have no idea where you would find one. There could be some gauge service places starting to mess with these. They may have some answers for you. Try a google search on gauge repair. You could also try some obsolete Ford parts suppliers. There is a place called Green sales in Cincinnati OH, that deals with NOS and old Ford parts. I found some obscure brake parts for my 1968 C600 Ford truck there. They have all the old Ford parts books and are really knowledgeable. A part number might help to locate another module.

Post what you find out. There may be others in this same boat soon, especially as these trucks start pushing past 30 years old.

 

[~X~]

I've been going through this issue on my sons 94. Two weeks ago I changed out the anti slosh module & the fuel gauge with spare parts I had. Original issue was the gauge reading empty all the time. After I put in the new/used module & gauge it would go to full when the key was on and slowly go back to empty.

Today we changed back to the original slosh module and gauge. After looking at the pcb trace film on the back of the gauge cluster, it looked like the socket for the ground pin out of the gauge wasn't making good contact with the trace. I pulled it out & tweaked it for better contact with the trace. So far it seems to be fixed.

 

[Gmctyphoon]

I've been going through this issue on my sons 94. Two weeks ago I changed out the anti slosh module & the fuel gauge with spare parts I had. Original issue was the gauge reading empty all the time. After I put in the new/used module & gauge it would go to full when the key was on and slowly go back to empty.

Today we changed back to the original slosh module and gauge. After looking at the pcb trace film on the back of the gauge cluster, it looked like the socket for the ground pin out of the gauge wasn't making good contact with the trace. I pulled it out & tweaked it for better contact with the trace. So far it seems to be fixed.

Great info!

 

[elmor353]

I've been going through this issue on my sons 94. Two weeks ago I changed out the anti slosh module & the fuel gauge with spare parts I had. Original issue was the gauge reading empty all the time. After I put in the new/used module & gauge it would go to full when the key was on and slowly go back to empty.

Today we changed back to the original slosh module and gauge. After looking at the pcb trace film on the back of the gauge cluster, it looked like the socket for the ground pin out of the gauge wasn't making good contact with the trace. I pulled it out & tweaked it for better contact with the trace. So far it seems to be fixed.

I'm having the opposite problem. Mine reads past full all the time. New fuel pump and sending unit. Guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pull the instrument cluster. I read that when I pull the anti-slosh module, I should inspect carefully for a broken solder joint. Hope it's something that simple.

 

[92exp4x4]

I'm having the opposite problem. Mine reads past full all the time. New fuel pump and sending unit. Guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pull the instrument cluster. I read that when I pull the anti-slosh module, I should inspect carefully for a broken solder joint. Hope it's something that simple.

We're gonna start seeing a lot of that. I have an '84 Mercedes S class. Its got the first of the Benz electronic fuel trim systems that was put on cars on that era. My car ran like garbage, like it was way to lean. I found the pins in the ECU loosening on the card. The solder had started to tarnish and the joints loosening.

On that car there is only about 8 wires going to the ECU. Melting the solder joints and letting the set fixed the issue. As our explorers age, I believe this will be more and more common. The explorer is still a relatively simple beast with a 60 pin PCM.