1994 Explorer wheel bearings

[MythX]

OK, I've been getting some noise out of my front end. It's weird, happens when I'm 30+ mph, usually when I'm putting a little rightward pressure on the steering wheel. What's funny about it, is that sometimes it happens when when the pressure is to the left, not the right. It's unpredictable.

Figuring this is wheel bearings, I picked some up, along with some grease and a new seal. I read the following link by Glacier991: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696

It says to tighten the the nut that holds the bearings in place to 20 inch/pounds, but also says finger tight. I don't have a torque wrench. I do have fingers. Will that be enough, or is the measurement important?

While I'm in there, what else should I be looking at? I figure I'll clean all the parts and re-grease before reassembly.

Thanks

Jason

 

[FLwireman]

The 20 foot lbs that you initially torque to is to set the bearings in place. The 20 inch lbs (finger tight ) is fine for setting the nut near the final position to reinstall the keeper. That is with auto hubs which I have. I've read that the folks with manual hubs crank it down pretty heavy, I have no experience with manual.

 

[RobertFord]

What I did was just use a screwdriver in one of the notches and whack it with a hammer until it was really tight, then back up, and just tighten it with a little love tap. (Didn't want to purchase the large socket as they are insanely expensive over here) It has been like that for the past 1.5 years and no problems as of yet

 

[MythX]

Yeah, I understand the 20 ft/lbs to insure the bearings are seated properly. I figure measurement isn't important there since I can just tighten till it won't tighten anymore. I'll likely use the screwdriver method mentioned by RobertFord. I have manual hub locks installed. I didn't expect that would make a difference for bearing tightness though.

Anyone else with experience with these?

Thanks for the help

 

[Jason94sport]

Turn the rotor as you tighten them to seat. Then back off a little. That is what I always did. You will see that everything will line up once your backed off enough.

 

[RobertFord]

2nd that

 

[4x4junkie]

Since you're in Colorado, I suggest just getting a proper socket. They're around $15 at pretty much any auto parts store. Hammering on it with a screwdriver is just asking for it to come loose (especially if you have oversized tires or wider-offset rims).

Also use only Timken brand SET-37 bearings & races. The D35 frontend tends to chew up anything less after only a short time.



How I do mine (manual hubs):
Tighten the inner nut (w/pin facing out of course) to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor back & forth to seat bearings
Back it off half-turn, retighten to 15 inch-lbs (or just lightly snug using the socket by hand).
Install the locking washer (if the pin doesn't line up with a hole, flip the washer over, DON'T turn the nut)
Install the outer nut and tighten to 250ft-lbs.

I run 35" offroad tires so that's why the 250 on the outer nut. If you have stock size tires & wheels, 150-175 ft-lbs should be plenty enough for it to stay tight.


Hope that helps

 

[huntman58]

Since you're in Colorado, I suggest just getting a proper socket. They're around $15 at pretty much any auto parts store. Hammering on it with a screwdriver is just asking for it to come loose (especially if you have oversized tires or wider-offset rims).

Also use only Timken brand SET-37 bearings & races. The D35 frontend tends to chew up anything less after only a short time.



How I do mine (manual hubs):
Tighten the inner nut (w/pin facing out of course) to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor back & forth to seat bearings
Back it off half-turn, retighten to 15 inch-lbs (or just lightly snug using the socket by hand).
Install the locking washer (if the pin doesn't line up with a hole, flip the washer over, DON'T turn the nut)
Install the outer nut and tighten to 250ft-lbs.

I run 35" offroad tires so that's why the 250 on the outer nut. If you have stock size tires & wheels, 150-175 ft-lbs should be plenty enough for it to stay tight.


Hope that helps

X2

I use to have to redo mine a lot more then I wanted to because the nut kept backing off. Well that is tell I did what most here do and that is bring it down on the last step good and tight but past the book speck! Also using the right tools and bearings is never a bad thing, so get the socket and use the screw driver for screws and prying (joking on the prying part.) The socket will save you big time in the long run believe me! Also get the best one you can as a cheep one can and most likely will round off its corners making it slip later on you! Never a good thing when you’re putting that much pressure on it and slip hitting your hand! do not ask how I know please.