Common Cents
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1994 Ford Explorer Sport
Initially, I was going to ask where to find parts to fix this, but some online searching turned up all the rear brake self adjuster hardware and the brake springs/hardware kit. I'm mostly posting this in case others have the same problem, and for any input on this job.
OK. So as you may know, I've started fixing up a "new to me" 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD. I mentioned in my introduction post that the rear brakes were leaking. I pulled the drums today. I started at the right rear. When I got the drum off, it was scary in there. Here are some pics.
The adjuster cable had broken. There was a short piece with frayed ends still attached to the upper pin. The rest of the cable was gone, and the hook that attaches to the adjuster lever/ratchet piece at the bottom was mostly gone, too. There was a small piece of metal stuck through the boot of the front piston of the wheel cylinder that looked like it could have come from that hook piece.
The starwheel had turned all the way, and the threaded section of the self-adjuster was completely unscrewed from the forward piece and would not thread back in. It was crooked and might have cross threaded if I had tried to force it.
Anyway, I found my brake fluid leak. I also found a "Brake Drum Self-Adjusting Kit-Rear" at the local AutoZone, and BrakeBest - Drum Brake Hardware Kit at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'll be picking those up as soon as I get an email that the orders are ready for pickup (I ordered online for in-store pickup).
It looks like I'll also need a 7/16" flare nut wrench for this job. None of my metric flare wrenches are a tight enough fit, and I don't want to risk rounding off the fitting on the wheel cylinder.
It also looks like I'll be getting some core shoes to ship off to my drum brake specialist, along with some new or servicable used core drums. I always get my shoes machined to match my drums. I usually use refinished (turned) drums, and I have a guy who relines shoes and matches the shoe radius precisely to the drums so that the friction material makes full contact with the drum. He also fits higher performance compounds to the shoes, and can provide performance matching front pads for improved braking and better fade resistance.
Machining new shoes to match the drum (a process called "arcing" the shoes) is an often overlooked part of repairing/maintaining drum brakes. It can sometimes be avoided if brand new shoes are fitted with brand new drums. But I've had situations where brand new drums and shoes don't match precisely. Usually when that happens, it's possible to turn the drums to match the new shoes (the new shoes are usually radiused slightly larger than a new drum, or the new drums might be slighly undersized).
The right rear shoes were also completely worn out.
The good news is the left rear was in good shape, so i won't need to do much for that side. I'll still replace the wheel cylinder and the self adjuster kit and the springs/hardware when I install new shoes/drums, but I don't have to deal with it today.
OK. So as you may know, I've started fixing up a "new to me" 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD. I mentioned in my introduction post that the rear brakes were leaking. I pulled the drums today. I started at the right rear. When I got the drum off, it was scary in there. Here are some pics.
Click for high resolution image:
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, view from above, showing damage and excessive wear.
Click for high resolution image:
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, straight on view, showing damage and excessive wear.
Click for high resolution image:
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, view from below, showing damage and excessive wear.
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, view from above, showing damage and excessive wear.
Click for high resolution image:
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, straight on view, showing damage and excessive wear.
Click for high resolution image:
Right rear brake, 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD, view from below, showing damage and excessive wear.
The adjuster cable had broken. There was a short piece with frayed ends still attached to the upper pin. The rest of the cable was gone, and the hook that attaches to the adjuster lever/ratchet piece at the bottom was mostly gone, too. There was a small piece of metal stuck through the boot of the front piston of the wheel cylinder that looked like it could have come from that hook piece.
The starwheel had turned all the way, and the threaded section of the self-adjuster was completely unscrewed from the forward piece and would not thread back in. It was crooked and might have cross threaded if I had tried to force it.
Anyway, I found my brake fluid leak. I also found a "Brake Drum Self-Adjusting Kit-Rear" at the local AutoZone, and BrakeBest - Drum Brake Hardware Kit at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'll be picking those up as soon as I get an email that the orders are ready for pickup (I ordered online for in-store pickup).
It looks like I'll also need a 7/16" flare nut wrench for this job. None of my metric flare wrenches are a tight enough fit, and I don't want to risk rounding off the fitting on the wheel cylinder.
It also looks like I'll be getting some core shoes to ship off to my drum brake specialist, along with some new or servicable used core drums. I always get my shoes machined to match my drums. I usually use refinished (turned) drums, and I have a guy who relines shoes and matches the shoe radius precisely to the drums so that the friction material makes full contact with the drum. He also fits higher performance compounds to the shoes, and can provide performance matching front pads for improved braking and better fade resistance.
Machining new shoes to match the drum (a process called "arcing" the shoes) is an often overlooked part of repairing/maintaining drum brakes. It can sometimes be avoided if brand new shoes are fitted with brand new drums. But I've had situations where brand new drums and shoes don't match precisely. Usually when that happens, it's possible to turn the drums to match the new shoes (the new shoes are usually radiused slightly larger than a new drum, or the new drums might be slighly undersized).
The right rear shoes were also completely worn out.
The good news is the left rear was in good shape, so i won't need to do much for that side. I'll still replace the wheel cylinder and the self adjuster kit and the springs/hardware when I install new shoes/drums, but I don't have to deal with it today.