1994 w/170xxx Miles - OK to Change ATF?

[Chris_94]

We've all heard the old wives tale..... don't change the ATF fluid in an old vehicle.

I bought this Explorer used about 8 months ago. Bought from a friend who takes really good care of his vehicles. But I don't know if he ever changed the ATF or how often. I called him (it was his daughters car) and he doesn't know if she ever paid the Quicky Lube places to change the fluid or not. He refused to service this particular vehicle because she is a spoiled brat and he decided she could start paying her own way in life. So more than likely, it wasn't changed while she owned it.

I have to assume it wasn't changed on a regular basis. I'd LIKE to change it and the filter as well, but I'm a little worried the thing might start acting up 2 weeks down the road.

Right now, it runs and shifts just fine.

Is it safe to change the ATF fluid, or should I just let sleeping dogs lie?

Thank you

 

[wood1]

Hi Chris, welcome to the site.

I wouldn't do any fancy power flush, but there is no reason to not change it. Actually, I don't really believe that old wive's tale and have changed my own fluid when the beast had 200,000 kms on it. I ended up rebuilding my valve body and replacing the governor but that was not as a result of the fluid change. I also added a second cooler (stacked plate, same size as the original) and an external filter set-up that uses a hydraulic head piece that you simply thread on a large oil filter to.

I believe the belief is that material from the worn out clutch plates is somehow suspended in the fluid (not sure where gravity disappears to) and helps the clutch plates grab.

Regardless, dropping the pan and changing the filter (use a Dacron Fram) only replaces a small percentage of the fluid, like 6 litres I think (see Don's Post below). There is no drain plug on the converter with this beast so you can't change the fluid in the conventional way. I pulled one of the transmission cooler lines and put it in a bucket, started my engine (in park) and let it slowly pump the fluid out while adding fresh in the dipstick tube. After the fluid was nice and clear red I hooked up the cooler again, adjusted the level and went on my merry way.

While you are at it, adjust the bands. That is a necessary maintenance item for the A4. Buy new lock nuts, the seals tend to tear when you re-use them.

So, my transmission has never been removed from the truck, and is still running strong at 320,000+ kms. It did once puke the fluid out of the front seal once when my kid got the engine hot (tranny cooler lines go through the rad, when the engine overheats that overheats the tranny) but we filled up the trans, topped up the antifreeze and have been driving it ever since. That was last year. Oh, and the boy doesn't drive my ex anymore...

Refer to the transmission section for directions on the band adjustment procedure.

Good luck.

 

[Chris_94]

Thanks Wood1 !!

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome Chris.

Do change the ATF and have the bands adjusted, that is always good.

But as always be ready to stop driving it the second it begins to slip at all. No matter when that might happen, the A4LD is extremely notorious for destroying many internal parts once slipping begins. High heat warps many of the expensive hard parts. If you can stop driving it when there is any bad slipping, you will save hundreds in extra parts during a rebuild. Normal rebuild parts are under $200 total, those other parts can amount to $500 or more extra.

If you do ever get slipping, and stop driving it quickly, you can usually solve that issue with the many parts available for the valve body. There are many threads here about people doing their own VB work. Check them out and see if you might want to get some of that done, and to be ready if need be. Regards,

 

[Chris_94]

Thanks CDW6212R

I did read the 'How To' on adjusting the bands. Seams pretty straight forward. Will have to get the sealing nuts first. I just found this website, so not used to navigating it yet. There's a lot of Tech Articles to browse.

We're not having problems with the transmission. I just thought it would be a good idea to change the fluid and filter. Thanks for the help guys. I've got some reading to do and I need to buy a few parts and tools. I will probably get around to changing the fluid in about a month. From what I've read, looks like I need to have 15-16 quarts on hand.

Is there an aftermarket fluid that I could/should use instead of the Ford brand?

 

[CDW6212R]

It would only take 12 quarts for a dry trans, for a filter change maybe 6. Get 7 to be sure and have a spare.

The Mercon V ATF is the current spec, but those older 90's trannies were not designed for the Mercon V fluid. The Mercon V is slicker than the previous Mercon I, I personally don't recommend using Mercon V for a Ford trans made before it existed. There is the possibility of creating some slippage, whether felt or not.

I would use the ATF in stores that is labeled Dexron III/Mercon, or some version which states that it meats Dexron III and Mercon standards. Legally they can't claim that it is Mercon (I), so they are just being vague describing it. They keep the name Mercon on the label with the Dexron III, but only claim that it meets Dexron III standards.

Meaning that prior to the Mercon becoming obsolete, the fluid was made for both Dexron III and Mercon. Lots of companies made it, and it's still in production, with slightly different labeling. That would be the best fluid for the A4LD's, for AOD's, and any Ford trans not redesigned before about 1997. I'd use Mercon V in the 5R55E, but maybe not the 4R44E.

 

[wood1]

Boys, not sure where I got the 3 litres from but I will change my post so I don't confuse anyone. Interesting you suggest not using the Mercon V Don, I have stayed away from using it as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have heard of some issues from Mark VII owners, which have AOD's. The AOD has an adjustable fluid pressure, by the stock TV cable. Some people have discovered that they have smoother shifting with Mercon V, and also softer WOT shifts, plus some slipping sometimes. The answer to those has been to adjust the TV pressure, which gains holding power. I have had one person change ATF to an older type, and gained back the firmer shifts he wanted.

Everyone has jumped to Mercon V as a replacement for anything since Mercon began, which was in the 80's I think. Ford is making newer transmissions to work with the slickest new fluids. I think the fluids last longer and run cooler that way, but the trans has to have more holding pressure to work with that ATF. It's as much of a trans design issue as the fluid design.

That was good for me because I still have two cases of B&M Trick Shift, which is almost just like the old type F. It works great in the 1980's trannies by Ford, but not for the vehicles after Mercon V came out.