1995 Ford Explorer Gas Problem

[ford headache]

hi i have a 1995 ford explorer its been parked a year,it ran good a few weeks and then it just started, unable to drive anywhere so changed fuel filter and then it was good for an hour then unable to rev higher than about 1500,2000 rpm. any idea ? please thank you. lynn

 

[2000StreetRod]

Drain the tank?

Did you drain the tank after it had been sitting for a year?

 

[Carguy3J]

hi i have a 1995 ford explorer its been parked a year,it ran good a few weeks and then it just started, unable to drive anywhere so changed fuel filter and then it was good for an hour then unable to rev higher than about 1500,2000 rpm. any idea ? please thank you. lynn

Was the old filter clogged? Did you pull the new filter to see if it is clogged? If not, you really don't know if it has anything to do with the filter.
Have you checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
I recently put a car back on the road that had sat outside for about 5 years. The gas in the tank was fine. Many of the sensors, that I know were good when it was parked, needed to be replaced. Corrosion can occur in/around electrical connector and wires when it sits. It may be fine when it's cold, and then when everything gets hot and expands, something could be no longer making a good connection.

Did you drain the tank after it had been sitting for a year?

I know convential wisdom "says" that the gas should be bad, but it's just not true. Yes, the gas absolutely will have lost some of the "lighter fractions" over time, and not be as "potent", but it should still be useable in a normal vehicle. Considering he's in CA, I'm guessing that moisture (from condensation) isn't as big an issue as it might be in colder/wetter climates.
I've had several vehicles parked for 3-4 years, with no "prep" that started right up and ran fine.
As long as the system was "sealed", cap on tight, no open fuel lines,etc..., it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[robertoa1a]

The IAC may have rusted shut.

I would provably drain the old fuel into a gas can by putting a 5/16" hose on the outlet of the fuel filter. Then I would run fresh gas just to be safe. It wouldn't hurt to pour a can of Sea-Foam in the tank.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've deleted your other thread since it was the same as this one. If the fuel is good, then the next step is to check the spark plugs for corrosion.

 

[Opera House]

If you have an electrical meter, you can pull the fuel pump fuse and measure current at that location. Should be over 3.5A. Below 2.5A the engine will start to stall. Pump current gives a good overall indication of the fuel system. There could be some electrical resistance doping pump voltage like a pump relay with burned contacts.

 

[my98nnj]

Have you tried to check the ECM for any stored error codes?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Very useful information!

If you have an electrical meter, you can pull the fuel pump fuse and measure current at that location. Should be over 3.5A. Below 2.5A the engine will start to stall. Pump current gives a good overall indication of the fuel system. There could be some electrical resistance doping pump voltage like a pump relay with burned contacts.

I've wondered what the typical current draw for the fuel pump is. Thanks for the information. This is an excellent way to check the pump and associated wiring with very little effort. Make sure your meter can handle the current. Most of the digital meters have a specific input for 0.2 to 10.0 amps.

 

[Joe Dirt]

That is very good info... If you probe the current at the fuse location, does that give a good look at how the pump is operating? I would assume that the wiring would need to be in top shape for any drop to eliminate wiring issues and be associated with the pump?

Are you talking about the Maxi-fuse under the hood?