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How to: 1995_2001 ford explorer sway bar links install lots of pics

donalds

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Rear links
Torque 58 foot pounds
Get under truck

20180418_184855.jpg


Locate link

20180418_185751.jpg


Remove nut and bolt mine was a 16mm

20180418_190026.jpg


20180418_190245.jpg


Remove link

20180418_190056.jpg


Wiggle new link in and install new nut and old bolt torque them to spec

20180418_190300.jpg


MORE pics

20180418_190715.jpg


20180418_191314.jpg


20180418_191649.jpg


Now the front
don't know about torque spec I tighten them in till the rubber bushing s start to squeeze just a little bit

Remove nut by holding the top of bolt with box wrench and a socket and ratchet

20180418_192751.jpg


Tap the bolt on the bottom through the top of link

20180418_193102.jpg


Remove link and all rubber bushing s
And washers

20180418_193130.jpg


Install new link in order
Bolt
Washer
Bushing
Bushing
Washer
Tube
Washer
Bushing
Bushing
Washer
Nut

20180418_193309.jpg


Tighten in till the rubber bushing s squish just a little

20180418_194453.jpg


Bought all parts on rock auto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...c,1354542,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580
 



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donalds

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This job took an hour to do all four links
 






Redmanss

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Good write up and pics. Your front links were in far better condition than mine were, mine has seen its fair share of salt over the years and the bolts were rusted into the sleeve. Front driver side bushings on mine got shredded by potholes on a cross country road trip recently, had to swap it in a Napa parking lot mid drive because it became very unstable in winds at interstate speeds. Bottom of the bolt/nut locked up and sheered off the top nut, had to hacksaw it to remove the rest, install went well from there with the help of my brother lifting the body up high enough to clear the bolt and sleeve. I replaced the passenger side once I got home, had to also hacksaw it off to remove it. Performance and stability is far better now, along with the addition of new shocks, but I still have the rear to do. It's on the long list of repairs...
 






donalds

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Good write up and pics. Your front links were in far better condition than mine were, mine has seen its fair share of salt over the years and the bolts were rusted into the sleeve. Front driver side bushings on mine got shredded by potholes on a cross country road trip recently, had to swap it in a Napa parking lot mid drive because it became very unstable in winds at interstate speeds. Bottom of the bolt/nut locked up and sheered off the top nut, had to hacksaw it to remove the rest, install went well from there with the help of my brother lifting the body up high enough to clear the bolt and sleeve. I replaced the passenger side once I got home, had to also hacksaw it off to remove it. Performance and stability is far better now, along with the addition of new shocks, but I still have the rear to do. It's on the long list of repairs...

Yea I'm from NY so I know about the salt
The only reason I did the front is because I did the back and they were cheep on rock auto
I think all of us fixed something or another in the napa parking lot lol
 






fast_dave

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Good write up, donalds!
 






Redmanss

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As far as torque specs, my Chilton manual lists front links at 10-13 ft-lbs for Explorers, 15-21 ft-lbs for Rangers. The kit I got from Napa stated tighten until bushing starts to expand, then back off 1/4 turn. Note the Napa kit (p/n 265-1312) contained blue polyurethane bushings, so would likely differ in torque from factory style rubber.
 






donalds

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Yea 20 foot pounds sounds about right you kinda feel it stop then I tighten just a little more

Thanks for the spec
my manual only had the spec for the back why Idk
 






donalds

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I did not see a post with the front and back at the same time with pics
 






swshawaii

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As far as torque specs, my Chilton manual lists front links at 10-13 ft-lbs for Explorers, 15-21 ft-lbs for Rangers. The kit I got from Napa stated tighten until bushing starts to expand, then back off 1/4 turn. Note the Napa kit (p/n 265-1312) contained blue polyurethane bushings, so would likely differ in torque from factory style rubber.

Both NAPA kits are rebranded AC Delco front end links.

Black (Rubber)
Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - Front Suspension
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7115004&cc=1354542&jsn=469

Blue (Thermoplastic Rubber)
Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - Front Suspension
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=389737&cc=1354542&jsn=463
 






Redmanss

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Napa says it's warrantied by Federal Mogul, and the picture on the Napa site doesn't match what I got and installed. Maybe it's rebranded AC Delco, but my kit I received looks more like the bushings from the MOOG K7275.
MOOG Stabilizer Bar Link Kit

Honestly, I can't keep up with all the rebranding done in the auto parts industry, especially since they keep changing suppliers without updating their sites.
 






Turdle

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Thanks for taking the time to do this. I took the liberty of cleaning it up a tad by merging the first 12 posts into one. Also, it will be linked into the
"how to" sub forum. @Rick
 






donalds

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Thanks
I could not find one like this
With all the pics
 






donalds

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Ok so it is time for rear stabilizer bar bushings
....clunk clunk.... Here is some pictures
And part number

20190909_153022.jpg


20190909_153014.jpg


20190909_154856.jpg


20190909_153102.jpg


20190909_154906.jpg
 






allmyEXes

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Good write up! Monday evening while performing a pad swap I noticed my front sway bar bushings (rubber) were blown out.
Here are some front bushings that @J_C told me about summer 2018. The link is still good.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Energy Suspension 9.8105R END LINK GROMMETS
Edited-But now I see via your Rockauto link that the complete kits with bolts and washers are quite affordable!
 






donalds

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Thank you sir the rubber ones are already failing
I'm going to order them today thank you
 






Hacra

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I'd like to add; those fortunate/unfortunate enough to have saleen xp8 rear sway bar (23mm instead of 19mm), rear stabilizer bushings have to be modified slightly.
 






J_C

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Thank you sir the rubber ones are already failing
I'm going to order them today thank you
Swshawaii has the best solution for this, using 7/16" bolts with the larger 9.8103G urethane bushings. It does require machining down the end of the bushing, and you may need to raise a jack under the bolt to compress them enough to start the nut:

Sway Bar Links

They're a little more expensive than the smaller 9.8105G, $7 on Amazon per side so two sets are needed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB58Q
 






donalds

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I already ordered the ones that @allmyEXes suggested before any other suggestions were made
so my bumpy driveway really killed them bushings and here are the new ones I had to drill them out just a little but still a good press fit

20190914_151902.jpg


20190914_104730.jpg


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20190914_152410.jpg
only tightened it to like 10 fps
And the bushings started to squeeze out so I left it thanks to all
 






CDW6212R

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There are at least two different bushing diameters you find in aftermarket kits. That is, the outer diameter, you want the larger bushings(same inner shaft size).

Install urethane bushings in the rear if you have the stock bar, it is way way too small. The Explorer Express rear bar was the best, huge improvement in handling I though in the two I installed.

I also bought the Addco front bar(1.5"), that helped the front, but don't do that if you want flex for off roading etc. When I installed that one, I had the hardware Addco sent(mix of good and poor quality), and two ES end link kits. I used the biggest bushings and the best length sleeve(spacer), so the pieces are strong and reliable.

EE rear sway bar.JPG


Addco 1.5 front bar.JPG


Addco sway bar brackets.JPG
 



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donalds

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Sweetness

With just want to stop replacing the rubber ones so t thought why not try this
It is my wife's truck
The rear need new bar to axle bushings so I went stock nice and quiet
Now she is asking me why the a.c. clutch disengagement is so loud, lol
 






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