1996 2-3 flare, no reverse

[jamieD]

I have a 1996 2WD Eddie Bauer Explorer with 190K miles, not certain since the odometer quit working. The door sticker shows transmission code "T". I have had it for 3 years and changed fluid every 15K miles (yearly) since I have had it, it has never smelled burnt. I finally lost reverse last month, I would have some reverse previously, but it finally went totally out. It also has the infamous 2-3 flare. It is getting worse, I could let off the gas and it would shift into 3, then I could get it to go into passing gear, but now I can't get it to do that. Basically I drive it so I keep it in 2 (second) long enough to be able to go to OD. After reading the forum and searching posts, I have determined that I have the 4r55E. I also see I need a VB rebuild or just get another one rebuilt with new shift solenoids like the one from Wholesale Transmission Parts. I read I also should get the bonded gasket and separator plate from Ford. The new VB should address the TSB or I should ask about that b/4 purchase. I should also get a new "red" EPC solenoid. I should get new o-rings and gasket for the reverse solenoid. Can you think of anything I missed? Thanks in advance

 

[ragajungle]

I should get new o-rings and gasket for the reverse solenoid. Can you think of anything I missed? Thanks in advance

You mean for the REV Servo? Jamie, when you do this keep us posted. There haven't been too many updates from recent queries about this issue. I am curious to know if this will help you.

Thanks,
Good Luck!

 

[jamieD]

I guess I mean the reverse servo. When you drop the pan and look up into the transmission, there is a round plate in the back corner. That is what I am picturing in my mind. That is why I am asking to to see if there is any more information. Is this in one of the stickies somewhere I missed?

 

[Brandon96]

I'm going to keep tabs as well, I too have the 2-3 flare on the 4r55e, it's so bad my tires chirp every now and then going into 3rd and I'm not looking forward to losing Reverse!! I've tried but can't get a hold of anyone on what I can do, Haynes' and Chilton's Ford auto Tranny guides don't exist for the 4r55e or atleast I've had no luck anywhere

Keep us posted!

 

[jamieD]

Attn BrooklynBay or Glacier991....

Maybe BrooklynBay or Glacier991 will reply, they have a lot of posts on these trannies....

 

[Brandon96]

Maybe BrooklyBay or Glacier991 will reply, they have a lot of posts on these trannies....

PM sent days ago, awaiting reply

 

[jamieD]

Are you sure your wheels are chirping or the fan belt slipping? Mine is the belt. I afraid sometimes it will break the belt when it flares......

 

[Brandon96]

Are you sure your wheels are chirping or the fan belt slipping? Mine is the belt. I afraid sometimes it will break the belt when it flares......

I thought that at first, but it's definitely my wheels. Over the past 10k miles or so it's got so bad to the point where if I'm not paying attention it comes out of 2nd at about 2300-2500rpm, winds up to 4500-4700 (possibly the rev limiter?) and drops into 3rd, chirping 33in tires.. lol It happens really fast too, not like most of the 5r55e flares.

I changed the fluid this weekend with just over 50k miles on it, no metal in the pan, wasn't burnt but was definitely thinning and browning. switched out both shift solenoids, didn't do anything

 

[jamieD]

Mine flares the same way, but if I pay close attention and let off the gas, it does chirp so bad. I can get it to "sliiiiide" into third gear if I am careful. Mine definitely won't chirp tires. I have found if I hold the gas down enough to get it to about 50 in second and let off, it will go on into od and not flare. Doesn't help when you try to pass someone though. My fluid has never smelled burnt. I was thinking about the solenoids, but I keep seeing posts pointing to the valve body. I just want to make sure before I do something, I am having a similar issue with a 98 f-150 with the e4od. Everything points to the valve body on it also.

 

[ragajungle]

Reverse or not to Reverse

I have been fighting this issue for a couple months now. The worst problem is that SO MANY of these trucks are going through [Loss of REVERSE] and there is not a single sticky thread or reference that deals with it. Only brief -in passing- commentary on the loss of reverse issue. I am determined to figure this out and I urge anyone who has a definitive resolution or suggestion to post so we can get it stickied. I seriously read over 50 posts dealing with this issue and no one ever replies back with a resolution response - accept 2
1) yep replaced tranny costs $2000-$3000 (VB didn't help)
2) transfer case was bad - fixed reverse issue

I have read conflicting info on this subject:

>Lost reverse suddenly with a pop/clunk/snap
>Lost reverse gradually after buzzing sound cause by transfer case
>Lost reverse due to a chipped REV/LOW Servo (Replaced and worked but then stopped again later)
>Lost Reverse and all forward gears work including MANUAL 1& 2
>Lost Reverse and fluid is leaking through a hole in the transmission casing
>Lost Reverse checked line pressure and all within speck
I understand that the REV band is shared with LOW gear (Manual 1) and thus it is a pressure/valve body issue/

The reverse/low band can be checked with a prodding tool like a screwdriver to see if the band has "spring" to it - if yes it is intact

I understand that if Reverse is lost with a sudden POP/Clunk/Snap it would indicate that the band is broken - but why then would in some of the case I read would Manual 1 & 2 still work if LOW/REV share the band?

 

[jamieD]

I read in one of the threads where there is an o-ring under the round plate next to the valve body on the "piston stem?". Replace the o-rings and you get back reverse if it gradually was lost. I don't know, I am like you, I have found conflicting answers. I don't have 4WD, so anything in the transfer case is null on my part. Please, someone point us to the "sticky" or an answer that can allow us to trouble shoot in a methodical manner.

 

[ragajungle]

Why it WONT get stickied is because there has been no difinitive answer as to what fixes the loss of reverse. AND because when people post up they dont come back with a response or a resolution. AND because I believe it is not one simple solution. There ae 3-4 reasons for no rev.

One can only try what has been mentioned and report back the resolution.

I think in your case it would be worthwhile for you to check the condition of the REV/Low Servo. Once you remove the trans pan on the REAR of the Valve Body a squarish plate hold the servo/piston in w/ 4 bolts. I checked mine and it was in perfect condition. I replaced the 2 o-rings and the gasket under the squarish plate and still no rev.

In 2 other cases I have read the servo tip was damaged and replaced with a new one only for the problem to return again after a couple days.

It would almost be worthwhile to replace the Valve Body (with all updates), the Reverse Servo/Rings/Gasket, and do the BAND Tension Check, followed by the band adjustment all at once. Maybe if you DONT tighten the band after replacing a dmamged Servo It will break the band.

There are a lot of unknown variables here, but as soon as I can I will do all three before I throw in the towel and buy a new trans.

 

[jamieD]

I went to the Ford dealer and ordered the valve body gaskets, there were two, but not bonded to the plate. They didn't offer that option. I also ordered the two reverse servo o-rings and a new gasket. I'll try that first and see what happens. I am also going to install a drain plug in the pan this time.

 

[jamieD]

Got the gaskets and o-rings today and reinstalled the valve body. I got the 7D100 and the 7C155 gaskets for the separator plate and the 2 o-rings for the reverse servo with a new plate gasket. It did not stop the 2-3 flare, but did improve the passing gear engagement which I had recently lost. When I put it in reverse and the rear axle was off the ground, the wheels would spin backwards, but no reverse when put on the ground. When I also initially put it in reverse, I could hear it "engage" or "clunk", but no more after I put it on the ground. I guess it is a new valve body in order next. I went ahead and installed a drain plug in the pan since I figured this was going to be a regular thing taking it off.

 

[jamieD]

The saga continues

Update: After putting everything back together with not much improvement, but some, I decided to install the perma-cool remote filter from Summit. I noticed that my fluid was getting very grey with some fines in it. I had just done a filter and fluid change about 3 months ago. I also noticed the valve body had some "grey" dust on along the valleys when I had it out. I also put in a can of seafoam transmission cleaner or "trans tune" for laughs and giggles. After running about 200 miles I got reverse back, not perfect however, and the flare is not so bad. Is the Seafoam cleaning the valve body and the new filter removing cleaning the gunk out of the fluid? I don't know, just seeing if anyone else has had this experience and wondering at what point should I change the FL1A type filter on the remote? I also put a new pan filter in while I had it in my hand with the pan off. Is this scenario confirming also that I have a dirty valve body and it needs a rebuild or will this continue to improve? Just looking for some thoughts on anyone who has tried this before. I am happy I have some reverse now!

 

[jamieD]

Ok, update here, I get reverse back after driving 30-40 minutes of driving. I am guessing there is a sticking valve in the valve body and when it is cold, it is tight and won't let it engage. It still isn't perfect, but it is shifting better. I do still have the 2-3 flare, but not as bad. I think the seafoam is cleaning the tranny valve body and the remote filter is catching the dirt, freeing some sticking valves. I did order a valve body from central valve body and will update all when it gets installed. I did tighten the two bands per directions in the sticky, but no noticeable improvement.

 

[Brandon96]

Sounds like your getting closer, please keep up the good work!

How did your loss of reverse start? I had a hard time getting into reverse trying to leave the junkyard this morning. I had to try a few times to finally get it to bang in.

, I knew it was coming..

good luck!

 

[ragajungle]

Jamie that's awesome to hear! I didn't even think of Seafoam!

 

[jamieD]

OK, I need some help. Got the new valve body installed and it didn't help anything. It may have helped slightly with the 1-2 shift, but not enough to say it did much. In fact, I now don't even have reverse even a little bit. What now?

 

[ragajungle]

Jamie,
Does the engine "brake" or slow down when you shift from D down to 2 or 1? Don't try this when yer going over 20mph for (2) and not over 10 mph for (1) or you will brake something.

If no then the band/drum/clutch pack is/are cooked. If yes than there is something going on with the Reverse Modulator Valve on the VB... OR you didn't torque something to speck or dropped/misplaced a check ball in the VB.

-Mike