1996 2-3 flare, no reverse

[jamieD]

They haven't answered the phone or emails since Tuesday.

 

[ragajungle]

One more Q: When you shift into reverse does the REV light come on? Does the engine load?

Also you should still check the pressure with a tester (maybe borrow one?) If it is leaking somewhere in REV it will show lower line pressure while engaged in REV. .. Just a thought..

 

[ragajungle]

Here is were you can get one pretty cheap since you dont have HF near you. Also I don't really care fore the one I got anyways - it flaked out the 3rd time I used it...
http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Transmission-Engine-Pressure-Tester/dp/B000I182JC

 

[jamieD]

Yes, reverse lights come on. Lets say I have a pressure drop in Rev. Where is it leaking? With a new vb and orings and gaskets, what is left? Why isn't the 2-3 flare affected/fixed by all this either? The only thing I haven't put my hands on that I know of are the servos. I don't know??? I may rig up a tester, but I'll have to put everything back together to test. Trying to check everything I can with everything open.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Sometimes a lack of reverse gear could result from a broken shift fork or shift rail in the transfer case.

 

[jamieD]

Would I have one of those in 2WD?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Only a transfer case has those parts.

 

[jamieD]

Am I on a good track to look at the servos or could I have possibly gotten a defective valve body? Got any other ideas on what to do?

 

[BrooklynBay]

An air test plate could test the individual sections of the transmission with the valve body removed.

 

[jamieD]

I don't have access to that. Currently the Ex is in my garage took apart. Is there a sticky or link on how to do that?

 

[BrooklynBay]

An air test plate has holes with markings for each section of the transmission. You apply air with a blow gun into these sections, and listen for the sound of the clutch pack or servo piston to react to the compressed air.

 

[greeny]

OK, I need some help. Got the new valve body installed and it didn't help anything. It may have helped slightly with the 1-2 shift, but not enough to say it did much. In fact, I now don't even have reverse even a little bit. What now?

hi jamie, i have a no rev. issue also. did you check the line pressure after you installed the new vb? and selinoid connections, all the cleaning with the seafoam might of introduced some contaminents to the new vb.-- with my issue i had a broke rev. band(and also had man1 gear working)we replaced the band,but did not hold it in place with the rev. servo(a rookie mistake,as the band pad that the servo piston sets in probaly moved some.this will not allow the band to apply tight enough to move the truck on it on weight when on the ground.wheels reversed on the lift.going to check it out today.)i was told that there is no rev.band adjustment,just changing the rev. servo piston rod changes the stroke.i will check back to see if there is a changes. good luck

 

[jamieD]

Without a line pressure gauge or the air test plate, I am limited to what I can do. I am going to probably look at the inter. and od servos and then button it back up and just live with it. I may go to the local u pull it and get another tranny to learn on and rebuild while tolerating this one. If they have one you can get one for $90. Do they sell different length piston rods? Does anyone have the measurement of engagement?

 

[jamieD]

Just spoke with Donny at CVB and he is sending me some photos, diagrams and troubleshooting ideas. The saga continues.......

 

[jamieD]

Donny sent me a pdf file with a possible fix. It says to block off the reverse modulator valve with a piece of flat steel to prevent that valve from moving. I also check the EPC solenoids again and the one from CVB was red and mine was green. I swapped them. Donny also told me to turn the EPC adjustment screw 1/3 turn. I am going to try that and button it up and see without messing with the servos right now.

 

[jamieD]

Tonight I buttoned everything back together and at first nothing changed except I was getting firmer shifts, I am contributing to the adjustment on the epc ( I only did a 1/4 turn CW on it). I did put my original green epc back into the CVB vb, (which had a red one in it). The 2-3 flare was still there, but not as bad. Still no reverse. I could tell it wanted to go into reverse sometimes, but not every time and I was still getting a 2-4 second delay from feeling the clunk or engagement. So I pulled it back into the shop and check the fluid level (while running). It was about a quart low so I put a quart in. Well, then reverse clunked pretty good and I had a little reverse, getting some major slipping however. I drove around again and the shifting got smoother but still 2-3 flare. I checked the fluid again and it was showing low again, so another quart. This time when I backed it out of the shop, it clunked good again and then spun rocks everywhere (I wasn't expecting a firm reverse engagement). I drove it to the driveway and went back and forth many times. Reverse would sometimes engage firmly and sometimes softly, sometimes slipping slightly and sometimes spinning tires, still getting a 2-4 second delay in engagement. So I pull it back into the shop and check the fluid, while running. I am definitely in the cross hatched area, so I say what the heck put in another quart. I am now showing a quart too much. I back it out the shop and get firm engagement in reverse, drive it around and definitely getting smoother, crisper shifts, but kind of harsh 2-3. I am thinking I need turn the epc back down now. I pull into the drive, getting tired and just go back and forth between all forward gears and back to reverse. I still get some slippage and delayed reverse, but every time if I give a little gas, it engages. My question is do I have the correct transmission dip stick? Can someone measure theirs in a 1996 2wd and/or give me a pic or measurements. I am showing fluid about 3/4" above the crosshatched area and get the best shifting I have ever had, though still not perfect. I have half a notion to put in another quart for laughs and giggles. Since I have the remote filter on and drain plug now, its easy to adjust the levels. Anyone with any other thoughts? I didn't look at the side servos, but I still want to sometime.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I suspect the old EPC as being border line. It's not bad, but it might be a little worn. How many miles does the old EPC have on it? I'm curious to see the information that Donny sent you. Could you send it to me in an email?

 

[jamieD]

Can you pm me with your email? I have almost lost my 2-3 flare. If I accelerate slowly, then it is almost gone (95%). If I accelerate quickly, it is not near as bad. The old EPC I put back in has 200K+ miles on it. I am getting reverse enough to use. It still slips, and sometimes doesn't engage, but it usually does after the third try. Most of the time it initially acts like it slips, but give it a little gas and it catches great and no slipping. When it engages, it takes about 4-5 seconds before engagement. What ever happened to the Bosch epcs?

 

[ragajungle]

PM'd

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the emails. The old EPC is probably bad with 200k miles. Try a new green band EPC. It should make a big difference.