1996 4.0 Explorer Brakes Issue

[Postal_Dave]

I'm trying to bring life back into my '96 Explorer. I'm working on the brakes today. I just blead the brakes and put new fluid in the master cylinder. So there is new fluid and no air in the line. I took it for a test drive around the block. I stomped the brakes and they grab hard at first then they release to come to a nice easy stop. I was expecting a hard stop all the may to the finish, but it putters out at the end. It stops fine when doing an easy stop at a stop sign or something, but if fails for an emergency stop.
Any suggestions?

 

[Montana Daze]

Does the vehicle have an ABS system?

 

[Postal_Dave]

Yes, it does have ABS.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm trying to bring life back into my '96 Explorer. I'm working on the brakes today. I just blead the brakes and put new fluid in the master cylinder. So there is new fluid and no air in the line. I took it for a test drive around the block. I stomped the brakes and they grab hard at first then they release to come to a nice easy stop. I was expecting a hard stop all the may to the finish, but it putters out at the end. It stops fine when doing an easy stop at a stop sign or something, but if fails for an emergency stop.
Any suggestions?

Welcome Dave, and what brake pads are you using? I prefer the Ford severe duty pads, which cost around $50 for the fronts, they have built in friction plates on the back, and are dark blue in color.

The ABS should operate when you hit the brakes hard.

If the pads are fresh, new, do not mash the brake pedal. Fresh pads need a break in period, to bed in the material, without smoking them immediately after installing. The vehicle should be driven without using the brakes hard, for a enough time that the brakes are used mildly, for say 50 stopping events. When you do it enough with light braking, after that you then use the brakes hard, briefly, for a stop of say 30mph-0, but not 75-0. Let the brakes cool down between stops, not 10 seconds, but five minutes of light use. Then do it again. Eventually you decide the pads have had enough bedding in, and then you mash the brakes from 60mph down to zero.

At some point, the pads will smell, you should notice it(have the window down). If you notice it when the brakes are nearly new, still fresh, then you didn't spend enough time bedding the pads in. That can and often leads to shortened pad life, or squealing.

 

[Postal_Dave]

I replaced the rotors and pads about 10 years ago with Bendix pads and rotors. This truck is rarely driven and is used mostly for trips to the lumber yard or the big box home stores. The pads have plenty of material left on them and the rotors still look new.

Even though it has ABS, it used to have a lot more stopping power when I slammed on the brakes. I'm afraid to tow anything now because it feels like it wouldn't be able to stop if I had an extra load behind me.

 

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like it needs more brake fluid flushed through it. Use about 20oz or so to force all the old fluid out. Clean fresh fluid will make it stop better. When the fluid is fresh, I'd then wonder about the pads, or any grease that has gotten on them or the rotors. The rotors are not a problem for any good brand, they aren't prone to warping like some cars.

 

[Montana Daze]

I'd also wonder if you have an air bubble somewhere

 

[Postal_Dave]

I guess I'll try to bleed them again. I'll get another bottle of brake fluid and try again.

Thanks everyone.

 

[410Fortune]

The abs system can get air trapped in the pump creating a "soft pedal" that will sink to the floor
Sometimes no amount of bleeding will free the air
A good way to get the air out is to find a safe place where you can activate the abs brakes, like a patch of sand or gravel.... get moving a bit then hit the brakes over and over let the abs pump the pedal, the air will leave the pump and can then be bled out

You also need to do a visual inspection of the brake system.... if you had to add fluid then I ask why? where did the old fluid go? Leak out?
Look for any wetness around where the lines connect
Check front brake hoses, make sure they are not rotting/bulged/swollen
Does the brake booster hold vacuum?

Just some ideas to get you started

 

[J_C]

I replaced the rotors and pads about 10 years ago with Bendix pads and rotors. This truck is rarely driven and is used mostly for trips to the lumber yard or the big box home stores. The pads have plenty of material left on them and the rotors still look new.

Even though it has ABS, it used to have a lot more stopping power when I slammed on the brakes. I'm afraid to tow anything now because it feels like it wouldn't be able to stop if I had an extra load behind me.

In addition to the other suggestions, I'd also check the caliper slide rails and pins, because some rust can build up after a decade, and the pin grease can harden, especially if a petroleum rather than silicone type. I'd also check the brake soft lines in case they are swelling, as they are probably due for replacement by now if not done at least once already, within the lifetime of the vehicle. Unfortunately some things degrade even if it is seldom driven.

Even though it has ABS, it used to have a lot more stopping power when I slammed on the brakes.

If "used to" means immediately proceeding your brake fluid change, then focus exclusively on bleeding the lines and ignore what I wrote above. If "used to" means at some point in the past and you were already having these brake issues, prompting the fluid change, look into all the above.