1996 Ex Sport OHV head gaskets replacement

[pepehuertars]

Im about to start a DIY project: Changing head gaskets in my 90k miles OHV 96 explorer.

Some of the symptoms are:

- Losing coolant
- Some water vapor out of the tail pipe
- Coolant smell when starting the cold engine
- Rough idle when starting for the first time in the day
- Rougher idle when starting after 1+ days of parking.
- Strange new noises when starting cold, like rattle from the lower-back part of the engine bay

Tests already done:

- Putting pressure in the radiator brings more vapor out of the exhaust pipe.

Tests to be done:

- Cylinder compression test: This week

Parts:

- New felpro gasket set (heads, throttle body, etc)
- 16 new Felpro head bolts
- New coil pack wires and spark plugs.
- New coolant to replace after draining the old one.

Tools:

- Big arrange of ratchets, sockets and wrenches.
- Oiler
- Plastic scraper.
- Brake clean

The car had a previous owner who might overheated after a radiator leak, but I'm not 100% sure. If that's the case, heads may be warped and in need of resurface, if its not, could be a cylinder crack but I guess I will not know until the heads are out of the motor.

If you have tips, recommendations or opinions on this, they are very welcome since this will be my biggest mechanic work, I'm not sure if I will deliver, but the chance is better than giving this job to a shop.

One initial question: it is necessary to remove both heads on this v6 if the leak affects the other?

Thank you very much

 

[96eb96]

9/10 you have a cracked head. This is a common problem. It is a straightforward job, just get a service manual on how to seal up the lower intake.

I used a leak sealer on mine called K-seal and it holds up. My truck is very rusty but if you have a truck in good condition it may be worth to repair.

For all this trouble it is best to replace both heads, but you could get away with doing just one.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

First pull the sparkplugs and see if any are discolored from the coolant leaking into the cylinders. This will tell you which head and which cylinder(s) have leaks. This will make it much easier to find a potential head crack, or area where the head gasket failed. The heads tend to crack in the area between the valves.

 

[rasouth]

Just went through a similar problem on my '96... water out of tailpipe, leaking coolant, rough idle on start up.
Did you check to see if you have water in your oil? Looks like chocolate milk if you do.
Check the compression to see if you have low compression on one or more cylinders. If you do, put a little oil, a couple of teaspoons worth, into your spark plug hole and check compression again. If compression goes up then you have worn rings. If reading stays the same then it is your head.
I had a crack between the valves on number two cylinder but I was not loosing compression there, it was my head gasket. I tried K-Seal but it did not work, even after several hundred miles. K-Seal only works where water circulates and won't help if you have cracked heads.
Removing the head on the passenger side is not too difficult, just remove throttle, belt, move A/C out of the way (do NOT disconnect A/C!), intake, coil pack, a few hoses and electrical connections moved out of the way, valve cover, rockers and then the head. Drivers side is more labor due to more things to remove... but over all not too bad.
It might be a good idea to replace both heads at the same time, that way you can check valve seats, valves, carbon build-up, cracks, etc.
You might check around local machine shops for reconditioned heads, save a little money. I got a recon head on Rockauto, along with gasket set and head bolts... Pretty reasonable price

 

[pepehuertars]

9/10 you have a cracked head. This is a common problem. It is a straightforward job, just get a service manual on how to seal up the lower intake.

I used a leak sealer on mine called K-seal and it holds up. My truck is very rusty but if you have a truck in good condition it may be worth to repair.

For all this trouble it is best to replace both heads, but you could get away with doing just one.

Not so easy to find heads for this vehicle in my country, not cheap either. Maybe k-seal its a choice to make but the car's body is in perfect shape so my idea is to keep it running with the better service I can provide. If you can tell me that k-seal will be the last thing I hear about the coolant loss, rough idling and all that stuff, I might certainly take that road!

First pull the sparkplugs and see if any are discolored from the coolant leaking into the cylinders. This will tell you which head and which cylinder(s) have leaks. This will make it much easier to find a potential head crack, or area where the head gasket failed. The heads tend to crack in the area between the valves.

I will pull the spark plugs this week to perform a compression test. Btw, for that test, the engine must be entirely cold? or should I warm up first?

If the head is cracked, the only option is to buy a new one?

Just went through a similar problem on my '96... water out of tailpipe, leaking coolant, rough idle on start up.
Did you check to see if you have water in your oil? Looks like chocolate milk if you do.
Check the compression to see if you have low compression on one or more cylinders. If you do, put a little oil, a couple of teaspoons worth, into your spark plug hole and check compression again. If compression goes up then you have worn rings. If reading stays the same then it is your head.
I had a crack between the valves on number two cylinder but I was not loosing compression there, it was my head gasket. I tried K-Seal but it did not work, even after several hundred miles. K-Seal only works where water circulates and won't help if you have cracked heads.
Removing the head on the passenger side is not too difficult, just remove throttle, belt, move A/C out of the way (do NOT disconnect A/C!), intake, coil pack, a few hoses and electrical connections moved out of the way, valve cover, rockers and then the head. Drivers side is more labor due to more things to remove... but over all not too bad.
It might be a good idea to replace both heads at the same time, that way you can check valve seats, valves, carbon build-up, cracks, etc.
You might check around local machine shops for reconditioned heads, save a little money. I got a recon head on Rockauto, along with gasket set and head bolts... Pretty reasonable price

There is no water in the oil, at least not at the noticeable level. Oil cap is clean, dipstick also.

Thank you for all the mechanical tips. Ive seen some videos about new orings, teflon orings and stuff like that, but I can not find any good docs about what's needed to be replaced. I'll appreciate some info about those details if you have some.

Thank you very much guys.

 

[masospaghetti]

I'm pretty sure I have a cracked head as well, and no evidence in the oil so far. Coolant consumption is really low and the only symptoms are coolant smell in exhaust and stumbling when starting cold in the morning. If the leak isn't too big, the coolant will burn off before it contaminates the oil.

 

[pepehuertars]

I'm pretty sure I have a cracked head as well, and no evidence in the oil so far. Coolant consumption is really low and the only symptoms are coolant smell in exhaust and stumbling when starting cold in the morning. If the leak isn't too big, the coolant will burn off before it contaminates the oil.

I don't know how to really know how much coolant it is being burn, but mine is dropping really fast. I must refill an empty reservoir every 4 or 5 days.

 

[96eb96]

Not so easy to find heads for this vehicle in my country, not cheap either. Maybe k-seal its a choice to make but the car's body is in perfect shape so my idea is to keep it running with the better service I can provide. If you can tell me that k-seal will be the last thing I hear about the coolant loss, rough idling and all that stuff, I might certainly take that road!



I will pull the spark plugs this week to perform a compression test. Btw, for that test, the engine must be entirely cold? or should I warm up first?

If the head is cracked, the only option is to buy a new one?



There is no water in the oil, at least not at the noticeable level. Oil cap is clean, dipstick also.

Thank you for all the mechanical tips. Ive seen some videos about new orings, teflon orings and stuff like that, but I can not find any good docs about what's needed to be replaced. I'll appreciate some info about those details if you have some.

Thank you very much guys.

K-seal seems to be hit and miss. Depending on the damage you have, it may or may not work. I actually ran mine with the plug out for 30 min so the k-seal forces into the crack. I had terrible symptoms, water out the exhaust and a massive misfire. Is it perfect now? I don't know. I have no OBD misfire events (not necessarily a check engine light). But I may be losing a bit of compression, I don't have amazing gas mileage. It certainly feels smooth and driveable. But considering that even newer cars succumb to terrible rust here, it is not worth repairing correctly at this point. If it didn't work I may have scrapped it. The rust is so bad that every metal tube(break line, power steering, etc) had to be replaced. The fuel lines thankfully are stainless steel. Lucky you probably don't have to deal with that. Except for that I had no problems with the explorer.

Unfortunately it is not suggested to repair these heads, unless you have guys there who are experts in that. They are weak from the factory. It would probably be very expensive to get heads shipped to you. Maybe look on ebay.

Try to get the Forscan (free) software with an inexpensive OBD adapter (BAFX brand works for me, about $20 from Amazon). There are cheaper ones but Forscan will push an adapter to its limit. Forscan will let you see individual cylinder misfire counts. I had 1000s on cyl 4 before the the K-seal, now I get 2 or 3 a trip.

 

[pepehuertars]

K-seal seems to be hit and miss. Depending on the damage you have, it may or may not work. I actually ran mine with the plug out for 30 min so the k-seal forces into the crack. I had terrible symptoms, water out the exhaust and a massive misfire. Is it perfect now? I don't know. I have no OBD misfire events (not necessarily a check engine light). But I may be losing a bit of compression, I don't have amazing gas mileage. It certainly feels smooth and driveable. But considering that even newer cars succumb to terrible rust here, it is not worth repairing correctly at this point. If it didn't work I may have scrapped it. The rust is so bad that every metal tube(break line, power steering, etc) had to be replaced. The fuel lines thankfully are stainless steel. Lucky you probably don't have to deal with that. Except for that I had no problems with the explorer.

Unfortunately it is not suggested to repair these heads, unless you have guys there who are experts in that. They are weak from the factory. It would probably be very expensive to get heads shipped to you. Maybe look on ebay.

Try to get the Forscan (free) software with an inexpensive OBD adapter (BAFX brand works for me, about $20 from Amazon). There are cheaper ones but Forscan will push an adapter to its limit. Forscan will let you see individual cylinder misfire counts. I had 1000s on cyl 4 before the the K-seal, now I get 2 or 3 a trip.

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Product...3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547120712&sr=8-3&keywords=BAFX

Talking about a head replacement, there are several on ebay, any recommendations?

Engine Cylinder Head ITM 60-5025 fits 95-02 Ford Explorer 4.0L-V6 OHV (NOT OHC) | eBay

 

[96eb96]

Is it this one?

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Product...3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547120712&sr=8-3&keywords=BAFX

Talking about a head replacement, there are several on ebay, any recommendations?

Engine Cylinder Head ITM 60-5025 fits 95-02 Ford Explorer 4.0L-V6 OHV (NOT OHC) | eBay

Yes, I have the cheaper Android/Windows Bluetooth one. With the Android headunit I have many interesting gauges in the radio. It is 100% worth it and you can diagnose anything on the truck. There is no other scan tool today to consider unless you get a Ford VCM/IDS. I actually helped the author add some features for the 96. It is very complete. It can even give you the door keypad code! If you have a newer Ford also (after say 2008) consider the ObdLinkMX+. But you absolutely don't need it for the 96.

I can't personally recommend a head because I don't suggest products I don't buy and work for me. I hate even suggesting any product because like the K-seal may work for me but not you. And even parts have different quality variation, so you may get a great part, tell me to buy it, and I may get a piece of junk. I can suggest BAFX because I know deep down it is very compatible, unless somehow you get a defective one.

I talked to one seller and he seemed to be reputable, I'll look if he is still around. I considered buying from him.

 

[fast_dave]

Talking about a head replacement, there are several on ebay, any recommendations?

@pepehuertars

Given your International Location, Santiago Chile, I'd recommend purchasing from Rock Auto.

Rock Auto has years of experience shipping internationally & dealing with foreign countries customs policies/declarations. For the past 7 -8 years I've had them send many parts to my brother-in-law in Sweden, and we have had no problems with shipping/customs/declaration.

In my experience, Rock Auto sells quality parts & stand behind them. This is a BIG purchase for you, and I imagine that you want to hit your goal the first time. You can also purchase all of your gaskets at the same time, from the same vendor, thus everything would come to you in one shipment/box.

International Shipping - Scroll down & Look at topic SHOPPING CART > SHIPPING
LINK: https://www.rockauto.com/help/?page=3

'96 4.0 OHV Cylinder Heads
LINK: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1996,explorer,4.0l+v6,1119653,engine,cylinder+head,5304

5% Off your Purchase Discount Code
73619FD04379D0 Expires: January 23, 2019
Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount.

Hope that helps & Happy New Year!

 

[rasouth]

I tried the OBD2 reader with Forscan and it never detected a misfire. It is a good tool but it did not help me diagnose which cylinder was bad. A compression test is really the only way to see which cylinders are affected and to see if it is the rings or the valves that are leaking. The heads are a weak point on these cars but are pretty easy to replace. These heads are interchangeable, meaning there is no left or right side, either will fit. If ordering off Rockauto remember that the pictures may show two heads but the price is usually for one.
Even after I replaced my heads the motor was stumbling and hesitant, rough running until someone told me to make sure the plug wires were installed properly, meaning clipped into the harnesses along the rocker cover, around behind the motor... One of my wires were shorting out and causing a misfire.
A lot of the original heads did not have exhaust gaskets installed from the factory so you may want to put those on your parts list if they are not included in the set.

 

[pepehuertars]

A small update:

Took the car to a shop for a radiator pressure test. The mechanic there told me that he is certain that the leak is at head level. He didn't offer to take care of the repairs because he didn't have particular knowledge on that motor (96 OHV V6) because not so many of those arrived in my country back in the day, and that I have to take care of a "second timing chain" on the back of the engine (not the regular one in the front near the water pump) when pulling the heads out, which will make the task more difficult...

I haven't read about something like that, can't event find something about it on Chilton or other sources. I just want to be sure that he's the one mistaken and not me!

 

[masospaghetti]

The "second timing chain" is for the other 4.0 engine (the 4.0 SOHC), not for yours. The 4.0 OHV only has the single standard front chain.

 

[fast_dave]

@pepehuertars

LOOK @ Picture: This is the only timing chain you have.

For more info, look at the following thread: Removing timing cover on 4.0 OHV

Hope that helps!

 

[pepehuertars]

Thank you guys. It's great to hear.

I think I'll start this weekend. Bit worried about the exhaust manifolds bolts, as they might break taking me to a long road of engine removal procedures. I'll start by soaking the bolts in WD40 overnight, any advice will be welcome.

Thank you again.

 

[masospaghetti]

I'm about to start the same job, so I'm curious to see your progress. I would recommend getting a proper penetrating oil to soak the manifold bolts such as PB Blaster and not using WD40.

 

[fast_dave]

I would recommend getting a proper penetrating oil to soak the manifold bolts such as PB Blaster and not using WD40.

What masospaghetti said.

To add, I'd also recommend a two part process.

First, heating the exhaust manifold nuts with a torch, and then applying the PB Blaster (or any penetrating oil you can obtain).

The idea is that by heating up the nut, and then applying the oil on the nut, the oil will he sucked up into the nut - like a "capillary effect".

You might want to do this every day, a week before you plan on starting the removal process.

Regardless, I hope that you obtain High Grade replacement exhaust manifold bolts & nuts because the original bolts & nuts have a reputation of becoming very weak after years of heat cycling.

Here's a GOOGLE search that should cover the bad news regarding the removal of original bolts & nuts, as well as many replacement solutions:
4.0 ohv exhaust manifold bolts - Google Search

Hope that helps

 

[96eb96]

A small update:

Took the car to a shop for a radiator pressure test. The mechanic there told me that he is certain that the leak is at head level. He didn't offer to take care of the repairs because he didn't have particular knowledge on that motor (96 OHV V6) because not so many of those arrived in my country back in the day, and that I have to take care of a "second timing chain" on the back of the engine (not the regular one in the front near the water pump) when pulling the heads out, which will make the task more difficult...

I haven't read about something like that, can't event find something about it on Chilton or other sources. I just want to be sure that he's the one mistaken and not me!

You don't have to touch timing for this job. It is bolt on.

 

[pepehuertars]

I'm about to start the same job, so I'm curious to see your progress. I would recommend getting a proper penetrating oil to soak the manifold bolts such as PB Blaster and not using WD40.

What masospaghetti said.

To add, I'd also recommend a two part process.

First, heating the exhaust manifold nuts with a torch, and then applying the PB Blaster (or any penetrating oil you can obtain).

The idea is that by heating up the nut, and then applying the oil on the nut, the oil will he sucked up into the nut - like a "capillary effect".

You might want to do this every day, a week before you plan on starting the removal process.

Regardless, I hope that you obtain High Grade replacement exhaust manifold bolts & nuts because the original bolts & nuts have a reputation of becoming very weak after years of heat cycling.

Here's a GOOGLE search that should cover the bad news regarding the removal of original bolts & nuts, as well as many replacement solutions:
4.0 ohv exhaust manifold bolts - Google Search

Hope that helps

Crap... Pb blaster is not available around here, can't bring it on Amazon either since my customs forbids stuff like that. I do have access to wd40 and other cheaper brands. I guess that will have to do it. Also liqui-moly lm40 and the loctite brand penetrating oil. I've never tested those.

Talking bolts... I didn't had that into account. I'll search for them around, anticipating that it will be difficult to find