1996 Explorer 4WD question

[Rossp]

Hey guys having a difficult time diagnosing my issue.

My vehicle is a 1996 Explorer 2D 4.0 v6 5 speed. Power everything & everything is functioning.

so I put the vehicle into 4wd (auto 4wd) i can hear the shift motor working, I inspected the vacuum axle disconnect, it works flawlessly. I put it into 4low, it works great. I have no flashing of lights indicating 4wd issue.

I jacked up the truck all 4 wheels off the ground. Put it into 4auto or 4low, the front wheels spin. Now if I depress the brake slightly or turn the steering wheel to almost lock the front tires completely stop (I know CV shafts binding) while the rear tires obviously are still spinning under a load from brake. If I introduce the parking brake in 4wd, still no power being transferred to the front wheels.

When I drive up a muddy hill the front tires DO NOT spin at all. My understanding is with the transfer case that when it’s engaged, the driveline to the front differential will spin the same as the rear driveline. Could my hall sensors bad? The reason I make that assumption is because when everything is engaged how come I am not getting power to the front axle?

what am I missing?

 

[RangerX]

Ross, I moved you thread into the Gen2 section, I think you’d get better help here.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Your shift motor shouldn’t move anything going into 4 high. It simply activates the clutch in the transfer case.

Do you have an ABS light on?

 

[JK080]

Check the vacuum to the front hubs when first put in 4WD; as vacuum is normally only present for about 45 seconds. There should be at least 15" of vacuum present for about 45 seconds after 4WD is engaged. If this is OK, leak test the front hubs. Even one bad hub could cause the loss of the 4WD engagement.

You can replace the hubs with manual hubs and not worry about vacuum or solenoids and will increase the reliability of the 4WD system.

I dont believe its a hall sensor issue

 

[rasouth]

I have a '96 4.0 automatic with the Control Trac. It is my understanding that with Control Trac the front wheels in 4wd high do not turn unless the rear wheels start to slip or spin and loose traction.

 

[imp]

I have a '96 4.0 automatic with the Control Trac. It is my understanding that with Control Trac the front wheels in 4wd high do not turn unless the rear wheels start to slip or spin and loose traction.

This is true in 4X4 AUTO, if so equipped. If 2WD, 4X4 HIGH, and 4X4 LOW equipped, the front wheels obviously turn in 2WD or 4X4 AUTO, transmitting no driving force of their own. If 4X4 AUTO, wheel speed difference between rear and front wheels engages electronic clutch transmitting power to front wheels until speed difference (slippage of rear wheels) stops. In 4X4 HIGH, the clutch is ALWAYS engaged, providing 4 wheel drive. In 4X4 LOW, low-gear power is constantly transmitted to bothe rear and front wheels.

 

[98FordLove]

From what I've noticed (at least on my XLT Explorer), the truck needs to be at a complete stop before putting 4WD auto on or else 4WD won't engage. The same goes for when turning it off, the truck has to be stopped.

 

[Mbrooks420]

From what I've noticed (at least on my XLT Explorer), the truck needs to be at a complete stop before putting 4WD auto on or else 4WD won't engage. The same goes for when turning it off, the truck has to be stopped.

Not true. You can switch on auto at any time, and it’ll function. It’s the entire reason the truck has a live axle.

You do need to be stopped with your foot on the brake in park to shift to low.

 

[98FordLove]

Not true. You can switch on auto at any time, and it’ll function. It’s the entire reason the truck has a live axle.

You do need to be stopped with your foot on the brake in park to shift to low.

But when I turn on 4WD auto when the car is still moving, the light will come on but if you keep driving it starts flashing. And I don't feel the AWD engaged at all.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You have a problem with the 4wd system. If the light blinks, codes are stored. These are absolutely shift on the fly vehicles, I’ve engaged the 4wd up to highway speeds many times. Always worked as it should.

 

[98FordLove]

You have a problem with the 4wd system. If the light blinks, codes are stored. These are absolutely shift on the fly vehicles, I’ve engaged the 4wd up to highway speeds many times. Always worked as it should.

Okay thanks. I wonder how difficult of a fix this would be. Wonder if I could get the codes cleared.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Clearing them won’t fix it. You need to pull them and see what they say is faulted.

 

[Mbrooks420]

My 96 was regular shifted into 4wd Auto at highway speeds and it was never a problem. I wouldn’t have purchased a non shift on the fly vehicle.

They might all have to be in neutral, I’m not 100% on that, it’s been ages since I’ve had a V6.

 

[C420sailor]

Stopped, neutral required for 4L

On the fly for 4H

 

[Rossp]

I’ve narrowed it down to the clutch inside the transfer case not correctly locking up. I’ll have to open it up to find out. Vacuum system is working on axle shaft and I have a live axle no auto hubs.
Hoping to grab a functioning case from pick n pull $175.00, or pondering the thought of rebuilding for $300.

 

[Mbrooks420]

They are some cases, and fairy simple to rebuild. There is one bearing that is tricky, but is usually doable. If all else fails most machine shops would pop it out for a reasonable charge.

 

[Thirteenstars]

I’ve narrowed it down to the clutch inside the transfer case not correctly locking up. I’ll have to open it up to find out. Vacuum system is working on axle shaft and I have a live axle no auto hubs.
Hoping to grab a functioning case from pick n pull $175.00, or pondering the thought of rebuilding for $300.

You can also check rock auto out. That's where I go for all my Explorer parts. Good luck.

 

[Austin Healey]

I found pulling the transfer case to be a very difficult job, mostly because it was hard to reach all the fasteners, plus removing rusted screws for the access plate in the passenger compartment. So I'd pay the extra $$ to have the existing unit rebuilt vs. a used unit, just to avoid having to do the job all over again.
Also, if "LOW" isn't working, check the interior fuse box.

 

[98FordLove]

Clearing them won’t fix it. You need to pull them and see what they say is faulted.

Thanks. I'm guessing it's likely the actuator. Wonder how easy and cheap the cost would be to replace.