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1996 Explorer 5.0 Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold Removal


Spartan

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Greetings,

I have some general questions about removing the drivers side exhaust manifold, which has cracked. For reference, I have already replaced the passengers side manifold last year, which was a pain in the ass because of the inner collector bolt.

From what 'Ive been reading the drivers side is much easier to do. Is this correct?

I will be removing the inner fender liner, and possibly the pinch bolts to the steering shaft.
How hard are the collector to exhaust pipe bolts on the drivers side?
I will be replacing the drivers side with another tubular manifold, because I can't afford torque monsters, and I can't get a cast manifold. Plus, i'm not doing the passengers side again.

Anything in particular that I should watch out for? I'll be replacing the bolts with new bolts, and the stud for the dipstick tube with another one. The rest will be ARP small head size fasteners.

Any tips and trucks would be appreciated!
 


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donalds

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WANTED torque monster headers of cast headers
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Spartan

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I appreciate that, but at this time I'm not interested in a set of torque monsters. I'm replacing with a stock manifold, as I already have it, and I'm waiting to modify things for when I build another motor for the truck. At that point, I'll be spending the money to modify things.
 




Mbrooks420

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Shouldn’t be too much worse than the other side. After this much time no one can tell you how difficult it will be. Worst cast cut the collector from the manifold and drill it out.

I’ve always been able to persuade them out. If you have time soak everything in penetrating oil.
 




410Fortune

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I can tell you as I have replaced a bunch of them:

Since you are replacing the manifold it does not matter if the collector bolts break
Yes the drivers side is much easier because you have straight shot access to the collector bolts from underneath
I would say start spraying the bolts now with PB blaster and let it soak
I would also say use a torch to heat the bolts and manifold to break the rust bond so the bolts will come right out, but again with a replacement manifold it does not matter if you break them as the stuck bits will be in the old manifold

You will have to remove the steering shaft, two 13mm bolts

Use a good manifold gasket, discussed here often. I like Mr Gasket or Percys no leak, (layers of thin aluminum that gets sandwiched, avail at most parts stores, which is why I like them) There are other better gaskets also..... like I said this is discussed here often.

Pull on the plug wire boots carefully unless you are replacing them as well
The dipstick will come right out of the block when pulled upwards, wiggle it back and forth if it fights you.
Dipstick uses an O ring to seal in the block, make sure it is in good shape or replace it......and a little permatex when you put it back in can help stop future leaks

My advice is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN get the block/head surfaces clean
Use locktite on the manifold bolts when you install
Torque manifold bolts slowly and evenly woring from the middle bolts outwards
Make sure you get the collector/downpipe seated straight and again torque the bolts evenly, do not over tighten!
Check the torque of the bolts after a few heat cycles
same as other side just easier access

Those 96 manifolds SUCK!!

are you using dorman cast replacements? They have worked out very well especially for the $$$$ (under $100 for a pair)
2-4 hour job
 




Spartan

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Sun Prairie WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT, 5.0 2WD
I can tell you as I have replaced a bunch of them:

Since you are replacing the manifold it does not matter if the collector bolts break
Yes the drivers side is much easier because you have straight shot access to the collector bolts from underneath
I would say start spraying the bolts now with PB blaster and let it soak
I would also say use a torch to heat the bolts and manifold to break the rust bond so the bolts will come right out, but again with a replacement manifold it does not matter if you break them as the stuck bits will be in the old manifold

You will have to remove the steering shaft, two 13mm bolts

Use a good manifold gasket, discussed here often. I like Mr Gasket or Percys no leak, (layers of thin aluminum that gets sandwiched, avail at most parts stores, which is why I like them) There are other better gaskets also..... like I said this is discussed here often.

Pull on the plug wire boots carefully unless you are replacing them as well
The dipstick will come right out of the block when pulled upwards, wiggle it back and forth if it fights you.
Dipstick uses an O ring to seal in the block, make sure it is in good shape or replace it......and a little permatex when you put it back in can help stop future leaks

My advice is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN get the block/head surfaces clean
Use locktite on the manifold bolts when you install
Torque manifold bolts slowly and evenly woring from the middle bolts outwards
Make sure you get the collector/downpipe seated straight and again torque the bolts evenly, do not over tighten!
Check the torque of the bolts after a few heat cycles
same as other side just easier access

Those 96 manifolds SUCK!!

are you using dorman cast replacements? They have worked out very well especially for the $$$$ (under $100 for a pair)
2-4 hour job
How do i get the forward most manifold bolt out?!! I cant seem to get a socket on it at all, because the clearance between the back of the compressor bracket and the manifold tube is NON EXISTENT.
 




410Fortune

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unbolt the compressor
 




Mbrooks420

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I second the Percy’s gaskets.
 








Mbrooks420

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I think you are looking for:
Percy 66014 Seal-4-Good Flange Gasket

About $45 on Amazon.
 




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