1996 Explorer Accident Front Drivers Side | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1996 Explorer Accident Front Drivers Side

Yesterday my wife had an accident in my Explorer with a Suburban. Short story, the Suburban impacted mostly the driver's side front tire and a little of the fender. I had to remove the tire and put on the spare since the tire was torn. Now with the spare on you can see the tire is bent inward. I'm posting some pics to get an opinion on what needs to be fixed. This truck is a winter beater and I don't want to spend too much money on it. And I also prefer to learn how to fix anything myself. I know it's hard just looking at the pics but once again I'm just looking for opinions.

Thanks

Front_Drivers_Side.JPG

Front_Drivers_Side_Under.JPG
 



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Well, as the saying goes, opinions are cheap, everybody has one.

It looks to me like your upper ball joint boot is torn and the upper part of the steering knuckle has been pushed inward - ball joint looks catywompous (sp?). I would guess a bent knuckle.

You would also want to examine the upper control arm mounts on the frame very carefully for signs of bending / stress. Assuming they are ok and the frame is not bent or bowed from the impact, you might get lucky and just need a new upper control arm, lower ball joint, and steering knuckle - and it would align ok.

Worst case is frame damage, and you can't always see that.
Its also possible to bend the lower control arm mounts - tough, but a Suburban is a big vehicle.
 






If it was the other persons fault why would ya be worried. Generaly if someone hits ya from the side unless ya ran a light/sign its the other persons fault. Because it generaly means you where there first.
 






NJ has a no fault policy. Since this accident could have been blamed both ways you are responsible for your own car. NJ has some of the highest insurance rates in the country so you dont use it unless you really need to.
 






I started to remove everything when I ran into a problem removing the tie rod. After I removed the cotter pin I tried to back off on the castle nut. Unfortunately the nut and the bolt moved at the same time. So I guess I'm looking at a bad tie rod also now. My question is, how do I remove the tie rod with the nut still attached?

exploded99 : the upper control arm looks OK after removing the tire and jacking up the truck. I think you are correct about the knuckle as it appears turned inward and down. Thanks for your help.
 






You will probably need to heat the nut up with a torch and if that doesnt work you will have to cut the nut off. Their is no way of holding the bolt. if you dont have a torch, a shop will do it for you and they can replace the tie rod too. they might charge you extra labor though.
 






Never tried it, but I think you could loosen the tie rod lock nuts, and spin the tie rod all the way out of the tie rod end. Then just leave the tie rod end in the bad knuckle and put some new ones in.

Oh yea... put a new upper control arm in, as that is the only way to get a new upper ball joint. I would never trust the old ball joint after a hit like that.
 






I am gonna move this to body work since it is collision related.

I see a new steering knuckle and an upper contorl arm. I would like a side view too.

As far as the spinning nut, usually if you push the ball joint into the seat that is enough to hold it to spin it off. I would NOT introduce heat into this process.

Sorry I never saw this thread before now
 






Here is a side view on stands.

side_view_small.jpg
 






How about with the wheel on ?
I wanna see if it is pushed back, how far.

I am concerned about the lower control arm and the torsion bar.
 






Steering wheel is straight, I took the top down picture because it shows the twist better.

side_w_tire.jpg
top_side.jpg
 






Hmmmmm might be a hair back.
Doesnt look too bad though.

I stand by my initial analysis. Sterring knuckle and upper control arm
 






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