1996 Explorer doesn't start when it's hot. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1996 Explorer doesn't start when it's hot.

JBE

New Member
Joined
November 1, 2008
Messages
8
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City, State
Denver, Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 sport 4.OL EFI 4WD
Hi Everyone,

I read the problem described many times online but I couldn't find a description of the diagnostic:

Let me use other people words to describe the problem:

"I have a ford explorer 1996, it always start in the morning, but after driving for a 10 min. and try to start a gain one or two hours lates, it won't star, only cranks, and smells gasoline, after six or seven times in two minutes it's star like with no problem, I have changed the Air Control Valve, and it's has the same problem? What could it be,, any one Knows???"

It seems to be related with the temperature:
- It start fine when the engine is cold.
- It start fine if the engine is turned off and restarted immediately before the temperature drops.
- It doesn't start if the engine is turned off for a while and the temperature dropped slightly. Then, the engine will start only if the gauge reach the cold area. It looks like there is no fuel supplied.

I shouldn't be related to the 00M12: wrong year and 00M12 doesn't start when cold...
It is not the idle air control valve (IAC), I changed it and it doesn't make any difference.
The car is a 1996 sport 4.0L EFI 4WD.
I suspect a sensor, could it be the air sensor, since the car cool down relatively fast (30 minutes)?

Does anyone know the answer to that dilemma.

Thx for your help
JB
 



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welcome jbe
 






Thx for the welcome Sam.

Do you know anyone that can help with my issue?
I just changed the fuel pressure regular but it did help.

Regards,
JB
 












Thx for the welcome Broonklynbay.

I did change the fuel pressure regulator, unfortunately it didn't help.

The temperature gauge seems to be find, it indicate the temperature correctly when it is cold or when it is warm... doesn't it mean that the temperature sensor is fined?
If not, can you please tell me how to test the temperature sensor?

Regards,
JB
 






Mine starts always, but is starting to exhibit this problem when warm. I changed the coolant temp sensor when I was near it one time, and it did not make a difference. I haven't tried the fuel pressure regulator yet, but it's also not a huge problem for me yet, as I'm not getting stranded.
 






This chart is in # 25 in my list of useful threads:
41928895.gif
 






thx for the table, I will measure the resistance this evening.

The start problem at hot seems to be a common problem of fuel injection engines. I read online that problem occurred on Nissan, Mercedes, Honda, even motorcycles.

For the same symptoms it seems to be different solutions. The main ones are:
- Fuel pump relay
- Fuel pump
- Fuel pressure regulator
- Vacuum leak (MASS/manifold gasket)
- Idle air control valve
- O2 sensor
- Battery voltage too low
- Spark plugs/wires
- Fuel pressure too low
- Throttle position sensor
- PCV valve

So far I didn't find my solution in any of those, I still need to measure the fuel pressure though...
 






The temperature sensor that you are interested in AIN'T the one associated with your gauge, its the one for engine operation.
 






OK, I didn't know there were different.
Where is it located, is it the one above the thermostat?
 






BrooklynBay, I measured the water temperature sensor and it indicates 25ohm at hot and 350ohm at cold.

The sensor I measured is the one by the thermostat. There is only one electrode, I assumed that the second one is connected to the engine ground. I think that the sensor is a diode and not a resistance

Like Bidwich said, I believe that I am not measuring the correct sensor. I need to find the sensor of the table you sent.

Can you please help to localize the other temperature sensor?
thx
JB
 


















me thinks that your "measurement technique" might need some "work". I suspect that you were either not on the right scale (resistance versus voltage) or not understanding the scale (kohms vs ohms) or maybe a "slight misunderstanding" of things. The "resistance" measurement that you indicate would likely give you a gauge reading of "cold" all the time... which you haven't indicated is the visual case.
 






Hi Everyone,

I read the problem described many times online but I couldn't find a description of the diagnostic:

Let me use other people words to describe the problem:

"I have a ford explorer 1996, it always start in the morning, but after driving for a 10 min. and try to start a gain one or two hours lates, it won't star, only cranks, and smells gasoline, after six or seven times in two minutes it's star like with no problem, I have changed the Air Control Valve, and it's has the same problem? What could it be,, any one Knows???"

It seems to be related with the temperature:
- It start fine when the engine is cold.
- It start fine if the engine is turned off and restarted immediately before the temperature drops.
- It doesn't start if the engine is turned off for a while and the temperature dropped slightly. Then, the engine will start only if the gauge reach the cold area. It looks like there is no fuel supplied.

I shouldn't be related to the 00M12: wrong year and 00M12 doesn't start when cold...
It is not the idle air control valve (IAC), I changed it and it doesn't make any difference.
The car is a 1996 sport 4.0L EFI 4WD.
I suspect a sensor, could it be the air sensor, since the car cool down relatively fast (30 minutes)?

Does anyone know the answer to that dilemma.

Thx for your help
JB

How old are you plugs and wires? How about the fuel filter? What is cranking fuel pressure when this happens? Any trouble codes?

When the car is cranking but not starting does your check engine light go out after it came on when you turned the key?

Also, mysterious no starts on Fords sometimes turn out to be crank position sensors, look by your crank wheel for a little black sensor.

Even if those sensors were open or shorted, I don't think that would make the car not start. You would get a trouble code if it were that out of range. But you can't eliminate anything yet....
 






Good Morning,

Budwich,
I was in the correct setting but I wasn't measuring the correct sensor.

Brooklynbay,
I finally measured the coolant temperature sensor and it indicates 2.8kohm at hot (~194degF/90degC) and 45.8kohm at cold (~68degF/20degC). It seems that the temp sensor is functional, do you agree?
In addition, when it was disconnected the check engine went on with a 118 code (=Engine coolant temperature circuit high input).

96eb96,
The plugs and wires are new, that's the first thing that I changed.
The fuel filter is new as well, I changed it 2 weeks ago.
I didn't measure the fuel pressure, I need to buy a fuel pressure gauge...
I use to have a 2 trouble codes due to the bank1 O2 sensor. Since I changed it I don't have any trouble code anymore.
When the car is cranking the check engine light goes off. That's mean that the spark are present, correct?
I will look at the crank position sensor. Do you have a method to test it?

Thx
JB
 






check engine light going off isn't an indication of "spark".... its an indication that the engine is turning and that the PCM has detected that thru a "method of induction". "Sparking tests" are the normal "old fashion bright light" when a wire is removed / gapped away from the plug and / or a timing light.
 






I am experiencing the same problem JBE. I changed my Cam sensor and synchronizer but that was no help. I'm looking to run the tests with my O2 and temperature sensors. Please let me know if you find out what is causing this annoying problem.
 






CHECK THE FUEL PRESSURE on these trucks

when warm and wont start almost always its flooded OR the fuel pump is getting WEAK
 



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i found that the problem on my car was the coolant sensor. it's an easy change and the part is only around $30. you could try looking into that. hope it helps
 






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