1996 Explorer Sport 4.0L OHV Camshaft syncronizer positioning | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1996 Explorer Sport 4.0L OHV Camshaft syncronizer positioning

nalacour

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May 4, 2020
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City, State
Johns Island, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Explorer Sport
Hey from SC,

This is my first post on the forum, so forgive me if this is an issue that has already been identified or addressed. I have pulled and rebuilt the engine from my 96 explorer sport. I bought the special tool and went to reinstall the camshaft synchronizer. The issue is that I have photos of how the sensor was oriented before I removed it, which does not line up with what the Haynes manual says. Here's the Haynes diagram:

20200906_182011.jpg


However, when I use the special tool, the angle shown in the Haynes manual is more like 15 or 30 degrees if I match up the sensor to the photo I took before removal:

Original positioning.JPG


Has anyone run into this? Here's the tool I bought and used (yellow):

tool.jpg
tool instructions.jpg


Thanks in advance!

-nalacour
 



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Forget that haynes manual its too confusing, this is a simple process with the engine on stand in front of you.

BRING Cyl #1 at top dead center on COMPRESSION STROKE
MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON CORRECT STROKE of you will be 180 out.

Now drop the cam synchro in with the ALIGNMENT tool in place
Synchro soaks in oil the whole body, two drops of oil in the top is also a good idea to help lube the top side bearings inside the synchro housing.

SHOULD be the black alignment tool for 96 ohv, with the emphasis on SHOULD BE

So the way this works is the cam synchro will drop into the engine just like a distributor, the gears will mesh and the cam synchro rotates as you drop it in place. So it is really easy to know you are in the correct tooth BECAUSE if you are one tooth out either direction it will be quite obvious when its drops all the way down (like 15 degrees out, not 5 degrees)

Here is the CORRECT position, just like your BEFORE picture shows
one tooth off center to the pass side

171_071042_170000000.jpg
 






Thanks 410Fortune.

Just wanted a sanity check on that. I did a quick search for the part with the special tool and it looks like colors vary based on manufacturer, like you indicated. Just out of curiosity, do you know if the service manual is clearer on the procedure? It seems a little disconcerting that if I hadn't taken pictures and just trusted the Haynes manual that I could have damaged my rebuild on initial startup...
 






the hayes manual is close? You see the cam synchro will land in slightly different places and get locked down, even though it is on the correct camshaft tooth. Its all based on the crank and cam locations. The only way to get the correct tooth on the cam drive gear is to haev cyl #1 at TDC compression stroke. You may be just a few MM before TDC or a few MM after....but you will still have the correct tooth on the cam gear. So it maybe just to the pass side of center line or it maybe closer to the 60 degree mark lie Haynes says
The problem here is it is really easy to OVERTHINK THIS

Just try it and see if you are happy with the results.
I will try to find a picture of the internal "flag" position when on the correct cam gear tooth at TDC as well....... not just the sensor housing

FYI the aftermarket cam synchros for the OHV 4.0 are HIT OR MISS
I have had them NOT FIT and when they do fit they get jammed inside the oil pump shaft aluminum finger............it should slide in easily just like a distributor if you have ever installed.
DO NOT FORCE IT DOWN not ever......... or you will ruin a part that does not fit and now cannot be returned....ask me how I know.
We went through 3 richporter/duralast/ auto parts store cam synchros in one day before we broke down and ordered a motorcraft.
I will NO LONGER USE AFTERMARKET in 96-2000 ohv's I refuse.... too many headaches.
OEM is the way to go.
 






the hayes manual is close? You see the cam synchro will land in slightly different places and get locked down, even though it is on the correct camshaft tooth. Its all based on the crank and cam locations. The only way to get the correct tooth on the cam drive gear is to haev cyl #1 at TDC compression stroke. You may be just a few MM before TDC or a few MM after....but you will still have the correct tooth on the cam gear. So it maybe just to the pass side of center line or it maybe closer to the 60 degree mark lie Haynes says
The problem here is it is really easy to OVERTHINK THIS

Just try it and see if you are happy with the results.
I will try to find a picture of the internal "flag" position when on the correct cam gear tooth at TDC as well....... not just the sensor housing

FYI the aftermarket cam synchros for the OHV 4.0 are HIT OR MISS
I have had them NOT FIT and when they do fit they get jammed inside the oil pump shaft aluminum finger............it should slide in easily just like a distributor if you have ever installed.
DO NOT FORCE IT DOWN not ever......... or you will ruin a part that does not fit and now cannot be returned....ask me how I know.
We went through 3 richporter/duralast/ auto parts store cam synchros in one day before we broke down and ordered a motorcraft.
I will NO LONGER USE AFTERMARKET in 96-2000 ohv's I refuse.... too many headaches.
OEM is the way to go.
Thanks, good info on the aftermarket synchros. And the Haynes manual is not even close, at least using the tool I have. They say the 60 degrees from CL is the angle at cyl #1 TDC, but mine is at 15 degrees at TDC (so what, like 3 teeth off?). If you have a photo of the internal flag when on the correct cam tooth at TDC, that would be great.
 






15degrees sounds about right
60 degree is where you start your drop apparently.....

Starting location
Graphic1.gif


finishing location
Graphic.gif


OEM location:
IMG_20130116_094507_367.jpg
 






What of you get the tool to mate up with the old sync before you pull it? That assures you are in the right position. I always get nervous with exactly TDC.
 






What of you get the tool to mate up with the old sync before you pull it? That assures you are in the right position. I always get nervous with exactly TDC.
Unfortunately, I did not purchase the tool until after I removed the synchro. I am also a little nervous, which is the reason I was hoping someone might have access to the ford service manual procedure, or a photo of the "flag" position at TDC, for comparison.
 






Ill help I have a complete 2000 4.0 downstairs engine sitting there, I will bring cyl 1 to TDC and remove the sensor housing so we can see the flag.
Out of all the pictures I have from 4.0 projects I have done, I never took a pic of that! (apparently)
 






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