1996 Ford Explorer XLT ABS Module Failure

[LesB]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer UN XLT 4 litre SOHC Wagon, it now has an ABS Module failure rendering the ABS inoperable., but still safe to drive

My car was in the last shipment of turnkey drive on/drive off vehicles to arrive in Australia direct from the USA in March 1996.

It has been a great car with little trouble, apart from a factory engine exchange at 175,000Ks as part of the warranty responsibility to replace engines that had timing chain failure that could render serious unrepairable engine failure. I had mine replaced just after it started to rattle a little causing no harm, but Ford Australia did follow up with a recall and a new designed engine replacement, with that engine now at about 200Ks and no trouble, it is quiet, runs sweet and has plenty of grunt after a crankshaft sensor replacement.

The ABS Module has failed and because my Explorer is an old model now there is no requirement under Australian law to hold factory parts longer than 7 years after a vehicle in released to the market.

Genuine Ford Explorer ABS Modules here are virtually impossible to find, so I have to revert to a second hand one from a Ford Wrecker,

The problem with that is Part Numbers to the relevant Model.

I can purchase a working second hand one, but am reluctant until my question is confirmed.

That leads me to a vexed question to the Forum, are all the Ford Explorer ABS Modules the same for my model range, but with differing Part Numbers for each Model?

Here in Australia my particular Model the UN, ranged from 1993 to 1999.

Any advice from the Forum would be welcome, thanks for the opportunity and your time.

LesB

 

[J_C]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer UN XLT 4 litre SOHC Wagon, it now has an ABS Module failure rendering the ABS inoperable., but still safe to drive

Based on what symptoms and whose diagnosis?

The ABS Module has failed and because my Explorer is an old model now there is no requirement under Australian law to hold factory parts longer than 7 years after a vehicle in released to the market.

Genuine Ford Explorer ABS Modules here are virtually impossible to find, so I have to revert to a second hand one from a Ford Wrecker,

The problem with that is Part Numbers to the relevant Model.

I can purchase a working second hand one, but am reluctant until my question is confirmed.

That leads me to a vexed question to the Forum, are all the Ford Explorer ABS Modules the same for my model range, but with differing Part Numbers for each Model?

I would just do without ABS before paying more than the vehicle is worth, "IF" the ABS module really has failed. You have not given much info such as symptoms or especially the ford specific scan tool codes to indicate what the computer sees as a fault.

Backing up a bit, I don't trust for a second, a shop diagnosis of a high value/cost repair.

Can you list the differing part numbers? Ford does do updates to design and based on supplies, where a part # can change some digits but there is a core part # string that remains the same, indicating it is just a newer revision in the parts supply chain.

 

[410Fortune]

Delete the ABS
PLumb new brake lines around the ABS pump and be done with it. I have done ABS deleted on quite a few explorers. You can remove the entire system. You will need to make a couple of simple brake lines using the stock parts and a flare tool. You will need a brass block to split the front line from the master cylinder into two so it feeds both front brakes. The whole ABS pump can go in the trash, you can pull the fuses,. relay and the wiring too if you wish.
There is about 25# of ABS stuff and you gain a big space under your hood.
I am a big fan of the ABS delete on these rigs...I never really liked ABS brakes to begin with...........

 

[J_C]

^ When I pull the ABS fuse on my '98, the check engine light (in addition to ABS light) comes on with a VSS code. How do you get around that?

 

[LesB]

Based on what symptoms and whose diagnosis?



I would just do without ABS before paying more than the vehicle is worth, "IF" the ABS module really has failed. You have not given much info such as symptoms or especially the ford specific scan tool codes to indicate what the computer sees as a fault.

Backing up a bit, I don't trust for a second, a shop diagnosis of a high value/cost repair.

Can you list the differing part numbers? Ford does do updates to design and based on supplies, where a part # can change some digits but there is a core part # string that remains the same, indicating it is just a newer revision in the parts supply chain.

 

[LesB]

Based on what symptoms and whose diagnosis?



I would just do without ABS before paying more than the vehicle is worth, "IF" the ABS module really has failed. You have not given much info such as symptoms or especially the ford specific scan tool codes to indicate what the computer sees as a fault.

Backing up a bit, I don't trust for a second, a shop diagnosis of a high value/cost repair.

Can you list the differing part numbers? Ford does do updates to design and based on supplies, where a part # can change some digits but there is a core part # string that remains the same, indicating it is just a newer revision in the parts supply chain.

Thanks to This Ingenious Trick With Boiling Water You Can Do This for Your Car​

Garages don’t want you to know about this amazing trick with boiling water​

tips-and-tricks.co​

​

 

[J_C]

Have I blocked too much of the internet? Lol, all I'm seeing is a thumbnail of someone pulling a dent with a plunger and a spam advertisement.

 

[LesB]

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated.
Yes, I took my vehicle to my local mechanic initially, who traced the problem as no power to the module, but he was very reluctant to do any work on the vehicle because of the lack of genuine or even generic parts.
I then went to a good reliable auto electrician who put his diagnostic piece on the vehicle and traced it to a coil gone in the ABS Module, which he said was not repairable, with the only solutions being to take a chance on a second hand unit or run without the ABS.
I did track Part Numbers from Ford Australia and received 2 results, F87A-2C-346, and FTZ-2C215A, so I was none the wiser, hence my question to the Forum, are all the ABS Modules for the UN Ford Explorer the same, but with different Part Numbers?
If that is the case for any ABS Modules for UN Explorers in Australia 1993 to 1999, then one could assume they would technically and mechanically be the same, as none were manufactured in Australia, all were imported from the USA
I have sourced a quote to do what has been suggested, convert the vehicle to non ABS by removal of the unit and replumbing the lines and it is just not feasible on cost, so am opting to run as it is, as I have been told that it is safe to drive carefully with the non operational ABS still in the vehicle.
Many thanks, take care, stay safe.
LesB

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View attachment 319306

Thanks to This Ingenious Trick With Boiling Water You Can Do This for Your Car​

​

Garages don’t want you to know about this amazing trick with boiling water​

​

tips-and-tricks.co​

​

 

[410Fortune]

When I pull the ABS fuse on my '98, the check engine light (in addition to ABS light) comes on with a VSS code. How do you get around that?

Yes your ABS computer is responsible for doing the "smoothing" for the VSS signal. It works like this in 98+ the abs pump takes the signal from the rear axle VSS sensor and buffers it to a signal the trucks computer can understand. You see 98 was the first year of no more VSS in the tailhousing, only the VSS in the rear axle is used...... So 98-01 trucks NEED the ABS pump in order for the speed signal to be sent correctly to the rest of the truck.
I Bypass the ABS pump by installing a Dakota Digital speedometer interface, they are $100 (competitor products can be had cheaper)
The dakota digital takes the VSS signal from the rear axle and buffers it to a signal your truck can understand....so the GEM, Cruise, Speedo, and PCM will be happy.
Here is a thread where I install a dakota digital and how:

Ford Ranger forum

The Premiere Site For Ford Ranger Enthusiasts

ford-rangers.com

After that you can put the entire ABS system in the scrapper.............
If you get an ABS light I can remove the instrument cluster and black that light out, or remove it. If you get a warning chime for a bad ABS light, I can wire in a resistor to fool the warming chime.

There is ALWAYS a way.............

 

[donalds]

Yes your ABS computer is responsible for doing the "smoothing" for the VSS signal. It works like this in 98+ the abs pump takes the signal from the rear axle VSS sensor and buffers it to a signal the trucks computer can understand. You see 98 was the first year of no more VSS in the tailhousing, only the VSS in the rear axle is used...... So 98-01 trucks NEED the ABS pump in order for the speed signal to be sent correctly to the rest of the truck.
I Bypass the ABS pump by installing a Dakota Digital speedometer interface, they are $100 (competitor products can be had cheaper)
The dakota digital takes the VSS signal from the rear axle and buffers it to a signal your truck can understand....so the GEM, Cruise, Speedo, and PCM will be happy.
Here is a thread where I install a dakota digital and how:

Ford Ranger forum

The Premiere Site For Ford Ranger Enthusiasts

ford-rangers.com

After that you can put the entire ABS system in the scrapper.............
If you get an ABS light I can remove the instrument cluster and black that light out, or remove it. If you get a warning chime for a bad ABS light, I can wire in a resistor to fool the warming chime.

There is ALWAYS a way.............

Such a pro
Minty as fu