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1996 JBL Audio

deerhunter_1

Member
Joined
March 2, 2018
Messages
14
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4
City, State
Dahlonega Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
I have a JBL "Premium" system in my 1996 Eddie Bauer, and i want to change the head unit out for something a bit newer, but I DONT want to bypass the stock amp. Is that even a possibility? If not I'm going to just leave it be, but if it is can you please tell me if there is a adapter plug, or a harness or something? Thank you for reading
 


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96eb96

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 20, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Albany, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 EB V6 OHV 4WD
I have experience with this system.
-The stock amp is a paperweight without the factory head unit. Think of the factory head unit as a keyboard and the amp a computer. It is a very unique, high tech (for the time) design that went away in 98. The antenna wire actually goes to the amp in the rear.
-You could use the subwoofer though. You run wires from the line out or sub out from your new head unit, along with the sub turnon wire. I do this and it works great. I replaced the blown subwoofer speaker.

-You have to run wires thru your truck, pull up the trim. There is a special kit with very long wires for this. The other option is wiring directly into the doors.

I would have kept it but wanted built in nav and a browser (which is a big deal even on new cars). I was able to install everything under $200.
 




deerhunter_1

Member
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Messages
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City, State
Dahlonega Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
Ok, thank you so much for you're help 96eb96
 




gmbroy

Elite Explorer
Joined
June 24, 2013
Messages
221
Reaction score
24
City, State
Orange VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer
I have experience with this system.
-The stock amp is a paperweight without the factory head unit. Think of the factory head unit as a keyboard and the amp a computer. It is a very unique, high tech (for the time) design that went away in 98. The antenna wire actually goes to the amp in the rear.
-You could use the subwoofer though. You run wires from the line out or sub out from your new head unit, along with the sub turnon wire. I do this and it works great. I replaced the blown subwoofer speaker.

-You have to run wires thru your truck, pull up the trim. There is a special kit with very long wires for this. The other option is wiring directly into the doors.

I would have kept it but wanted built in nav and a browser (which is a big deal even on new cars). I was able to install everything under $200.
My subwoofer took a crap . where can i get a replacement speaker i can just change out . would prefer to keep it jbl
 




Mbrooks420

High Voltage.
Elite Explorer
Joined
February 2, 2002
Messages
11,561
Reaction score
2,218
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Mountaineer AWD
You can replace the headunit and easily pull he rear cargo cover, and bypass it without buying anything but connectors. You’d want it bypassed (although you CAN keep it, I don’t remember how I did but it IS possible) as its quality is very lame, even compared to the cheap aftermarket decks for under $100.

I wouldn’t bother trying to keep the speaker JBL. It will severely limit your options. Any sub will work, granted it’s the right diameter and designed for a small enclosure. What’s your budget?
 




96eb96

Explorer Addict
Joined
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Messages
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City, State
Albany, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 EB V6 OHV 4WD
My subwoofer took a crap . where can i get a replacement speaker i can just change out . would prefer to keep it jbl
Sub Speaker is a common size, I think 6.5"? There are many choices depending on what you want to spend. No need to keep the component JBL. I think it is 4 ohms though, you have to make sure to match that.
 




4rd Xplora

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Messages
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City, State
On a Round Rock in Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Eddie Bauer 2WD.
After the 3rd replacement factory woofer, picked up a box with a 10in. woofer at a garage sale for $25. With a little creativity to hide some re-wiring, looks great and sounds better. Downside? Lost a small amount of cargo space.
 




deerhunter_1

Member
Joined
March 2, 2018
Messages
14
Reaction score
4
City, State
Dahlonega Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
I have experience with this system.
-The stock amp is a paperweight without the factory head unit. Think of the factory head unit as a keyboard and the amp a computer. It is a very unique, high tech (for the time) design that went away in 98. The antenna wire actually goes to the amp in the rear.
-You could use the subwoofer though. You run wires from the line out or sub out from your new head unit, along with the sub turnon wire. I do this and it works great. I replaced the blown subwoofer speaker.

-You have to run wires thru your truck, pull up the trim. There is a special kit with very long wires for this. The other option is wiring directly into the doors.

I would have kept it but wanted built in nav and a browser (which is a big deal even on new cars). I was able to install everything under $200.
I know this is about 2 years to late. Life got busy. I have since been considering just bypassing it because I have installed a aftermarket subwoofer amp/box which was my reasoning for keeping it. The door speakers in that car I know are run through a high pass filter because of the sub it had. If they are bypassed are they ok to be used as normal doors or would I need new speakers that can take more wattage?
 




Mbrooks420

High Voltage.
Elite Explorer
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Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Mountaineer AWD
I know this is about 2 years to late. Life got busy. I have since been considering just bypassing it because I have installed a aftermarket subwoofer amp/box which was my reasoning for keeping it. The door speakers in that car I know are run through a high pass filter because of the sub it had. If they are bypassed are they ok to be used as normal doors or would I need new speakers that can take more wattage?
I can’t imagine wanting to run the junk stock speakers with an amp and a subwoofer.
 




J_C

Explorer Addict
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City, State
Florence, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT 4WD 4.0L SOHC
^ Could be done one thing at a time, get the bulk of the work done then when finished, decide whether to swap in new speakers.

Whether the stock speakers can take the wattage depends on how high you crank the volume. With the stock stereo if it's cranked up, you'll get distortion that eventually damages the speakers. With a higher wattage amp, given enough volume, sure you could blow them, at a lower volume than aftermarket speakers rated for higher wattage, but you could blow aftermarket speakers too.

Above I mean if they aren't bypassed with a high pass filter. They can handle low frequencies too, but obviously that's more power getting to them and further limits the total volume the system can produce. Certainly you can do a high pass to them and continue using them... and if you do crank the volume up too high and damage them, it's a bit of the same difference in that you then replace them.

Clearly replacement speakers of decent quality would sound better, or of equal quality but new instead of ~ 25 years old, but I wouldn't pay a lot for fancy tweeters in the front door speakers because the speaker is so low that most of the treble is lost.

If you're insistent on good treble then you'd be better off with satellite tweeters but I don't know if there is room in the windshield pillars without them sticking out more than you're like (depending on the tweeter design, thin piezo type sound terrible and thin neo magnet type are more expensive), and if you add the tweeters you'll have to fiddle with balance since they'll be so much nearer your head (add a series resistor after experimentation to find the right ohm value). Then again there's ceiling mounted or dash or wherever you'd like to put them.

Given enough motivation you might even be able to cut holes in the top dash surface and drop in a dome tweeter for better wide field radiation. Since it's a tweeter it's not like the mount has to be very robust, just enough that it doesn't rattle from vehicle vibration.
 




deerhunter_1

Member
Joined
March 2, 2018
Messages
14
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City, State
Dahlonega Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer XLT
^ Could be done one thing at a time, get the bulk of the work done then when finished, decide whether to swap in new speakers.

Whether the stock speakers can take the wattage depends on how high you crank the volume. With the stock stereo if it's cranked up, you'll get distortion that eventually damages the speakers. With a higher wattage amp, given enough volume, sure you could blow them, at a lower volume than aftermarket speakers rated for higher wattage, but you could blow aftermarket speakers too.

Above I mean if they aren't bypassed with a high pass filter. They can handle low frequencies too, but obviously that's more power getting to them and further limits the total volume the system can produce. Certainly you can do a high pass to them and continue using them... and if you do crank the volume up too high and damage them, it's a bit of the same difference in that you then replace them.

Clearly replacement speakers of decent quality would sound better, or of equal quality but new instead of ~ 25 years old, but I wouldn't pay a lot for fancy tweeters in the front door speakers because the speaker is so low that most of the treble is lost.

If you're insistent on good treble then you'd be better off with satellite tweeters but I don't know if there is room in the windshield pillars without them sticking out more than you're like (depending on the tweeter design, thin piezo type sound terrible and thin neo magnet type are more expensive), and if you add the tweeters you'll have to fiddle with balance since they'll be so much nearer your head (add a series resistor after experimentation to find the right ohm value). Then again there's ceiling mounted or dash or wherever you'd like to put them.

Given enough motivation you might even be able to cut holes in the top dash surface and drop in a dome tweeter for better wide field radiation. Since it's a tweeter it's not like the mount has to be very robust, just enough that it doesn't rattle from vehicle vibration.
Ok. Yeah I am replacing them eventually but I was just wondering if i needed to get everything at once or if it could be done in chunks. And thanks for tweeter advice, I will just need to see how the doors keep up, the stock ones sorta keep up at turned at max but they get very flat sounding in the process, still surprised me for being 25 years old and having a tiny cone.
 




gmbroy

Elite Explorer
Joined
June 24, 2013
Messages
221
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City, State
Orange VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer
I found a 6.5" to replace the one i had . I should have just rebuilt the old speaker . very easy & cheap . It was a pain pulling the panel off . I could have replaced the head unit but the **** in me wanted to keep the factory unit . lol It all works well I had the cd changer rebuilt . it works good for me . Thanks for all the help guys .
 




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