1997 4.0L SOHC Man Vacuum Zero Won't start | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1997 4.0L SOHC Man Vacuum Zero Won't start

genealogyman

New Member
Joined
December 5, 2018
Messages
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Location
West Valley City
City, State
West Valley City, UT
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT 4.0L SOHC
I just finished rebuilding my 4.0L SOHC after a blown head gasket. It won't start. If I crank it long enough, I smell gas, my inductive timing light is picking up spark on each wire. Hooked up manifold vacuum to manifold port just under brake booster port. Needle won't even flicker while cranking. If I let it sit for a while and try again (Overnight), The engine coughs like it ignited in one cylinder right off (Intake backfire) but then nothing.

What am I missing? All lines are hooked up. Used the Timing toolkit when I set all of the chains and cassettes.
 



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1st) check firing order, (plug wires), if ok then do a cranking compression test. A cranking compression test will tell us the timing, rings, valves, and gaskets are sealing (no vacuum leaks).
 






Triple checked firing order. It is correct. Will check Compression next.
 






Compression was at zero as well in three different cylinders. Needle didn't even quiver during test. Pulled Right Valve Cover and checked cam position on timing. Cam gear had slipped. Is there any trick to keeping these gears "locked" in place as they aren't keyed in any fashion? Will be checking left bank tonight.
 












I did use the OTC 6488 kit and a torque wrench. That is why I am mystified.
 












No, it wasn't. That is why I am mystified. They thought to key the other gears, why not these? I just don't want to get everything set again and then have it pop loose again - any suggestions on ensuring they don't move. I am almost crazy enough to get it set and then put 4 tack welds on each -- almost crazy enough..
 






If I remember right those bolts are TTY. Did you replace them? you start by torquing them to (cant remember the number) foot lbs, and then you turn them 90 degrees If I remember right. There should be plenty of surface tension between the cam and the gear for it not to turn.
 






They are not. The Cloyes video showing this replacement shows the Torque as 45 ft lbs if using the special tool or 63 ft lbs if the torque wrench is directly on the bolt. Video here and this statement for left side is at 4:50 and the right side is at 9:55. Elsewhere in the video he specifices directly which bolts are TTY (Both ends of the Jackshaft) he says nothing about this on these two upper bolts.

 






If someone has a factory service manual out there could they look up the proper procedure for this fellow. EBSCOhost got rid of all their factory service manuals and I dont have a copy anymore
 












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