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1997 Adding ABS disable switch

allmyEXes

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 6, 2016
Messages
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City, State
No. Alabama USA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Blue Ex 4.0 SOHC
Callsign
KAGG 3611 (CB)
This morning I was doing some reading on here and found where on '97 and earlier Explorers, people were wiring in a "disable" switch inline with fuse #14. I removed the fuse assuming the ABS would be disabled thus making the light go out. Does anyone know how to wire it, Maybe with a DPST switch, to turn the light off with it. There are occasions when it would be nice to disable the ABS function.
 



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I know how to disable it :)
Remove the whole damn system and plumb around it
97 4WABS brakes YIKES I do not like them
I can pump my own brake pedal

I am not sure you will ever be able to disable the system without the light coming on? The light being on is how you would know the system is "Off"

all you have to do is interrupt the signal from one front wheel speed sensor and ABS will disable, but you will get a dash light
 






Sunday when I demonstrated an "Emergency Stop" I could tell that they were not working.
I suppose that I will take the little light bulb out and cure that glowing all of the time problem. It's particularly bothersum at night! I don't care for ABS either...
 






Hmm, I've been good at braking ever since the days of my reckless youth, or else I'd have been dead already. Even so, I like ABS, as it has made it easier to steer around packs of deer that roam around here in fall.

On the other hand it can be annoying dealing with sensors and hubs as they get older, let alone the control module cost.

Anyway, just use a dual pole switch so that you are not only turning off power to the ABS control module, but also through the dash bulb, though having the dash bulb lit, seems like a useful reminder that it's shut off. On the diagram below, looks like pin 14, dark green wire is what you'd switch off in addition to the fused power feed.

If I'm reading the diagram correctly, unplugging the module altogether should accomplish this too but then you ought to put a weatherproof cover over the connectors.
 

Attachments

  • anti-lock-brakes-1-of-1.pdf
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I should probably ohms check each of my wheel sensors and what should I set my DVOM on? Then replace the bad sensor. Mine is a 1997. I assume that it has individual wheel sensors. Am I correct?
 






I should probably ohms check each of my wheel sensors and what should I set my DVOM on? Then replace the bad sensor. Mine is a 1997. I assume that it has individual wheel sensors. Am I correct?

One on each front wheel and on in the rear diff. Personally I don't need ABS, like it, or want it. Oh and good luck removing the old sensor from the steering knuckle. Those bugger's tend to get rusted in there pretty good.

If it were me, I'd pull the ABS fuse and remove the ABS Problem light bulb. As @410Fortune said, I know how to drive and can pump my own brakes.
 






I should probably ohms check each of my wheel sensors and what should I set my DVOM on? Then replace the bad sensor. Mine is a 1997. I assume that it has individual wheel sensors. Am I correct?

I'm going through this myself (ABS sometimes activates slowing below ~5MPH) so I can't claim to have all the answers, but what I've found so far is that the coil in the sensors isn't that likely to be the problem, more likely either the wire, the connector, or metal-contaminated grease has deposited on the sensor end because the bearing is going out and throwing dirty grease on it.

My wheel sensor broke when I tried to remove it, due to the hub rusting above the o-ring that seals it. It tore the plastic outer casing off but "maybe" it is still intact otherwise. I put a replacement in, lubed up good with silicone grease, which resolved the problem for about a month then it was back again. Recently I replaced that hub, but it didn't clear up the problem, so next I'm replacing the other front sensor, or if I can get the old one out without breaking it, will try cleaning it off. They are a coil around a metal core, forming an electromagnet that makes a pulse as the ring teeth pass near. Supposedly severe hub wear can also cause the ring to get too far away but I never detected hub play.

If the other sensor works for a while, then I'm assuming my other wheel hub is going out too, which would only make sense due to them both being the same age, original factory hubs. Then again I could hook up an OBDII dongle and use Forscan to see which wheel's (or rear diff sensor) speed is dropping out at low speeds (I never had the ABS dash light on), probably should do that but I reckon I'm due for new hubs anyway.

If you do get just the sensors, they were a lot cheaper on amazon than Rock Auto. I got two for $20, though if these Chinese sensors fail in a month and that's the cause of my continuing efforts, then they don't look like as much of a good value.

I'm tied up for the rest of the day but sooner or later I can see what ohm readings I get on the first factory sensor I replaced, the Amazon sensor put in its place, and the other Amazon sensor from the two-pack... if I can find it, I'm sure I know where the other two are. Your multimeter should be set to [edit]hundreds of Ohms range (little under 0.5K)[/edit], then if it's out of range, use the next higher range. I'll know more when I measure mine.
 






Just measured my front wheel factory ABS sensor that had the outer shell torn off, 420ohms. Replacement Autex brand, #ALS198 from Amazon, 440ohms. I forgot that I got those Autex sensors as a warehouse special, paid $20 but normally $30:


I don't know what the deal is with this part prior to '98 but when I look up this equivalent part # it states:
From 11/01/1999. Incl.ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Wire Harness. Wheel. Included with: For 95-97 models, must replace both sides hub & bearing assembly, Hub & bearing assembly.

Fits Explorer, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Ranger
4WD. 4WD, 1998-2003, 4 wheel ABS, from 11/1/99. 4WD, 2004-11. AWD. Explorer; 4WD. Ranger; 4WD; From 11/1/99.


Looks like they also sell the same thing $2 cheaper... amazon?!!
 






Yesterday before heading to work I removed fuse 11 too. I had already removed 14. About a mile from the house I noticed that my speedometer was not working. I pulled over at a little church parking lot and put 11 back in. Speedometer is back on now.
I will start with the front brakes this Saturday morning after I finish diagnosing DTC p0401!
Thanks for your input guys!
 






As long as the inspection guys don’t care...pull the fuse and the bulb and be done with it.
 






Yesterday before heading to work I removed fuse 11 too. I had already removed 14. About a mile from the house I noticed that my speedometer was not working. I pulled over at a little church parking lot and put 11 back in. Speedometer is back on now.
I will start with the front brakes this Saturday morning after I finish diagnosing DTC p0401!
Thanks for your input guys!
There must be some differences between '97 and '98. I just pulled my #14 fuse, (and not #11), and it did disable ABS, but I got not only an ABS light on the dash but also a Check Engine light and the speedo not working... I sure hope it isn't just coincidence that I got the Check Engine light (was running good at the time), but eventually I'll get the chance to pull the codes to see what the code that set it is.
 






@C420sailor "As long as the inspection guys don’t care...pull the fuse and the bulb and be done with it."
In my state we don't have inspections unless it is a wrecked vehicle that got rebuilt. They are checking the VINs on used parts used and a general safety inspection.
There are a hand full of U.S. A. states without inspections.
 






Sunday when I demonstrated an "Emergency Stop" I could tell that they were not working.
I suppose that I will take the little light bulb out and cure that glowing all of the time problem. It's particularly bothersum at night! I don't care for ABS either...
Put a small piece of electrical tape over the dash light. Cheap fix.
 






There must be some differences between '97 and '98. I just pulled my #14 fuse, (and not #11), and it did disable ABS, but I got not only an ABS light on the dash but also a Check Engine light and the speedo not working.

Turns out the Check Engine light was from a P0500 VSS (vehicle speed sensor) malfunction from pulling the fuse, and putting fuse back in didn't reset it, had to hook up an OBDII dongle then used Torque app to reset it.

... (time lapse)... after several driving cycles it has not generated the ABS or CEL warnings again, leaving #14 fuse in.
 






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