allmyEXes
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 6, 2016
- Messages
- 2,903
- Reaction score
- 1,947
- City, State
- No. Alabama USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1997 Blue Ex 4.0 SOHC
- Callsign
- KAGG 3611 (CB)
I rarely have a chance to work on our '97 that we refer to as "Flo". My Wife is driving it close to 500 miles a week. This is the same Explorer that is the test vehicle for the adjustable manual tensioner for the RH timing chain. Aug 2017 I had to remove the upper intake to replace the thermostat housing and I used the cheap $18 one complete with new sensors and it is still hanging in there. However I did not replace the Intake gaskets.
Since that time whenever it is cold it would start up and jump up to nearly 2000 RPMs. It was really scary when the 180K rear tensioner was not pumped up. The adjustable tensioner took care of that.
THE CEL has been coming on and staying on with a p0174 I think.
Saturday afternoon when the rain stopped for about two hours , I was able to remove both upper and lower intake parts. It took 50 minutes to do this.
Tools required:
-8mm/5/16" tool to undo the negative battery terminal
-very small flat blade/tip screw driver -for wiring harness clips and two vacuum line clips
-7 mm 1/4" drive socket for the appearance cover and throttle/cruise control cable (don't remove the CC cable clip or you'll loose the calibration)
-T-30 hand driver or 1/4" drive-For the 8 upper plenum fasteners-(I only had 3/8" drive and you can not remove the hidden 8th fastener with 3/8)
-8mm socket for the 12 lower intake fasteners and the IAC
-3/8" ratchet and extensions
-1/4" ratchet,extension and swivel
-T-20 driver for that thing in the top of the upper plenum that is blocking at least 1 fastener
-Pliers for the hose clamp on the brake booster hose (either end)
-10mm socket for the PCM connector
-11mm/7/16" socket for the PCM harness on the firewall
-Inch pounds torque wrench
OPOI (other points of interest):
-The fact that FoMoCo designed the grooves deep enough that you don't have to worry that the new gaskets will fall out during reassembly. Not with FELPRO gaskets, that is. I recommend them and others that have done this task recommend them too.
-The poster that suggested having a vacuum cleaner nearby to clean off the mouse nest on top of the engine under the fuel injector harness was right. Looks like a cozy place to birth some baby mice.
-If the EGR valve & bracket that bolts up to the cylinder head behind the AC/PS bracket was two pieces and you could unbolt the EGR valve from the bracket it would come off with the intake.
-That plastic tube that plugs in to the big rubber hose (forgive me folks, I can't remember the name of parts right now) that connects the Mass air sensor to the throttle body and the other end to the thing on top of the upper plenum, For some reason runs the length of the intake and then capped on the back end WTF? OK, one of you FoMoCo Engineers tell me why?
A picture of that part below:
I will add a picture soon
Anyway I was going to put a picture here of that part and found something interesting wrong with it. The rubber "Y" has a 1/2" crack in it making a big vacuum leak. I looked on RA Parts and couldn't find one. Well that is that part that I was telling you about that one end ran to nowhere. I borrowed one off of my other '97 4.0 SOHC powered truck for now. However I don't see why a piece of hose couldn't be used to hook directly to the black plastic tube to the "big rubber hose"
I started reassembling at 2:40 this afternoon and was finished by 4:20. I had stopped 2 or 3 times to go in to wash greasy hands (that helps to thaw them out) and I checked out a video from a guy that did this task to get the torque specs.
I had 2 hours and 20 minutes in the job. I could see a Shop charging 2.5 to 3.0 hours plus parts, but I have not found a labor time on it (410fortune enlighten me).
Here is a link to the part 1 and part 2 videos that I referred to
When I finished I hooked the battery back up. Started it up and it idled at about 1200 RPMs then when it warmed up in park 800. In gear about 650.
Now don't let these little engines fool you. They have a bad reputation because of the secondary timing chains.Mainly that the RH chain is only accessible by removing the engine or transmission. When you first start it up you will hear a rush of air going through the plastic intake. These 4.0 245 cubic inch engines are moving quite a bit air CFM. You may think that this is a vacuum leak. Unplug a vacuum line for a few seconds and you will hear the difference and it will run rough too.
4.0 SOHC Engine Specifications
I just went out for 5 minutes to crank it up and came back inside at 7 p.m. It's been sitting cold for 2 hours @26 degrees F, feels like 18 F. I started it and idled at 1200. I'm very happy with the results.
Link to post with picture of the '97 in it
My Wife's 1997 V-6 4.0 SOHC 4DR 2WD Explorer
-
Since that time whenever it is cold it would start up and jump up to nearly 2000 RPMs. It was really scary when the 180K rear tensioner was not pumped up. The adjustable tensioner took care of that.
THE CEL has been coming on and staying on with a p0174 I think.
Saturday afternoon when the rain stopped for about two hours , I was able to remove both upper and lower intake parts. It took 50 minutes to do this.
Tools required:
-8mm/5/16" tool to undo the negative battery terminal
-very small flat blade/tip screw driver -for wiring harness clips and two vacuum line clips
-7 mm 1/4" drive socket for the appearance cover and throttle/cruise control cable (don't remove the CC cable clip or you'll loose the calibration)
-T-30 hand driver or 1/4" drive-For the 8 upper plenum fasteners-(I only had 3/8" drive and you can not remove the hidden 8th fastener with 3/8)
-8mm socket for the 12 lower intake fasteners and the IAC
-3/8" ratchet and extensions
-1/4" ratchet,extension and swivel
-T-20 driver for that thing in the top of the upper plenum that is blocking at least 1 fastener
-Pliers for the hose clamp on the brake booster hose (either end)
-10mm socket for the PCM connector
-11mm/7/16" socket for the PCM harness on the firewall
-Inch pounds torque wrench
OPOI (other points of interest):
-The fact that FoMoCo designed the grooves deep enough that you don't have to worry that the new gaskets will fall out during reassembly. Not with FELPRO gaskets, that is. I recommend them and others that have done this task recommend them too.
-The poster that suggested having a vacuum cleaner nearby to clean off the mouse nest on top of the engine under the fuel injector harness was right. Looks like a cozy place to birth some baby mice.
-If the EGR valve & bracket that bolts up to the cylinder head behind the AC/PS bracket was two pieces and you could unbolt the EGR valve from the bracket it would come off with the intake.
-That plastic tube that plugs in to the big rubber hose (forgive me folks, I can't remember the name of parts right now) that connects the Mass air sensor to the throttle body and the other end to the thing on top of the upper plenum, For some reason runs the length of the intake and then capped on the back end WTF? OK, one of you FoMoCo Engineers tell me why?
A picture of that part below:
I will add a picture soon
Anyway I was going to put a picture here of that part and found something interesting wrong with it. The rubber "Y" has a 1/2" crack in it making a big vacuum leak. I looked on RA Parts and couldn't find one. Well that is that part that I was telling you about that one end ran to nowhere. I borrowed one off of my other '97 4.0 SOHC powered truck for now. However I don't see why a piece of hose couldn't be used to hook directly to the black plastic tube to the "big rubber hose"
I started reassembling at 2:40 this afternoon and was finished by 4:20. I had stopped 2 or 3 times to go in to wash greasy hands (that helps to thaw them out) and I checked out a video from a guy that did this task to get the torque specs.
I had 2 hours and 20 minutes in the job. I could see a Shop charging 2.5 to 3.0 hours plus parts, but I have not found a labor time on it (410fortune enlighten me).
Here is a link to the part 1 and part 2 videos that I referred to
When I finished I hooked the battery back up. Started it up and it idled at about 1200 RPMs then when it warmed up in park 800. In gear about 650.
Now don't let these little engines fool you. They have a bad reputation because of the secondary timing chains.Mainly that the RH chain is only accessible by removing the engine or transmission. When you first start it up you will hear a rush of air going through the plastic intake. These 4.0 245 cubic inch engines are moving quite a bit air CFM. You may think that this is a vacuum leak. Unplug a vacuum line for a few seconds and you will hear the difference and it will run rough too.
4.0 SOHC Engine Specifications
I just went out for 5 minutes to crank it up and came back inside at 7 p.m. It's been sitting cold for 2 hours @26 degrees F, feels like 18 F. I started it and idled at 1200. I'm very happy with the results.
Link to post with picture of the '97 in it
My Wife's 1997 V-6 4.0 SOHC 4DR 2WD Explorer
-