1997 diagnosing steering problem & intermediate steering shaft removal

[allmyEXes]

I finally had some time this afternoon to work on my white '97 4.0 SOHC powered Explorer that I have a lot of time and fair amount of money in repairing the engine. When I finally got to the point that I could test drive it, it wouldn't steer. I searched here and many other places trying to find others that had had steering problems. One condition is a damaged or rusted up steering sector? the part that goes between the column and the R&P. I have the top and bottom bolt out.
The question is...Will I have to unbolt the steering column to slide it up to get the steering sector? (I assume that its what it is called) out of the vehicle??

 

[allmyEXes]

The sector or intermediate shaft appears to be collapsible. However the very top part of it will not slide off of the steering column shaft. I slid the rubber boot down first to see if it was rusted under it but it looked ok. I really thought it would slide down a little tapping at the top near the firewall. There is not very much working room.

 

[allmyEXes]

The design of the intermediate steering sector appears to be a collapsible design, however the one on my vehicle will not slide. I know that it isn't froze up to the column shaft attachment point. I'm assuming at this point that I am going to have to do a partial column removal to remove the shaft. I'm hoping that I only have to remove the knee pad, the metal knee cap buster behind that and the cross brace attaching bolts that hold up the column. I'm hoping that the wiring and shift cable can stay connected. I'm thinking that the flexible part of the shaft is damaged from Tennessee road salt.
Any input from you veteran members that perform most of your own repairs?

 

[koda2000]

I've never heard the term "steering selector" used in conjunction with a rack-and-pinion steering system. Are you talking about the universal joints on the steering intermediate shaft? These u-joints tend too freeze up with wear and rust and when this happens you end up with stiff spots in the steering.

Dorman Steering Intermediate Shaft 425-257

Shop for Dorman Steering Intermediate Shaft 425-257 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

Another issue that manifests itself on Ford's rack-and-pinion systems is that turning the steering wheel without the engine/power steering pump running allows air to get sucked into the system. This can produce scary violent shaking in the steering wheel when turning, but is easily purged out of the system.

 

[410Fortune]

yes hes talking about the intermediate shaft
It does collapse
It will slide off the top post that goes through the firewall, its just stuck
Use a crescent wrench and open it to the size of the square shaft. Place it over the end so you can hit it with a hammer and push the telescoping shaft down and away It will go......

Once you do that it will come right off of the rack and pinion mount too
No you do NOT have to drop the steering column to get it loose
Yours must just be stuck

 

[allmyEXes]

@koda2000 I think that I used the word "sector" as in section.
@410Fortune Thanks for the Crescent wrench idea. That may work, it just depends on how stuck it is. Late Saturday about the time that I stopped working I was thinking if it had a piece of 1" angle attached to the "SIS" then there would be something to tap on.
By the way Phil thanks for the Dorman link. I didn't know a replacement was available

 

[410Fortune]

try tapping it up and down, side to side a little too ......it will come loose.
Most of them you can get just by pulling on it, they do not usually "seize up"
I am learning I was quite spoiled in Colorado however, with such a dry climate nothing really rusted. Here in North Idaho....well............ no longer spoiled

 

[allmyEXes]

With the top bolt out of the "SIS" it does wiggle there. I'm glad that part is not froze up. All y'all, youz guys and you all have helped me alot along the way. Many times when I'm under "mandatory repair pressure" the repair ideas don't flow out of the brain as easy. I'm going back out to it after breakfast slides down and get after it with the "C" wrench an a little hammer that will fit down there. I bet the working space is even less on the 5.0 powered EX/MMs.

 

[allmyEXes]

I was able to remove the steering intermediate shaft but I wasn't ever able to get the collapsible part to slide. I even clamped vice grips about halfway down the shaft to hit on it there with some hammer movement. I was able to remove the lower dash parts, disconnect the PRN... cable, unbolt the 4 nuts holding the column up and slide it up off of the top of the Steering Intermediate Shaft. I was glad that the electrical connections, the shifter cable and dust boot at the firewall DID NOT have to be undone. The swivel joints on both end are nearly froze up all of the way and the collapsible part of the shaft is froze up as well and has enough deterioration that the factory powder coating is pealing off.
Thanks for your help and input guys!

 

[allmyEXes]

@koda2000 Phil, What vehicle is the Dorman steering intermediate shaft 425-257 (the link that you provided) is it suppose to fit? It doesn't fit a 1997 Ford Explorer and I don't find one available from any of the American Parts Stores that sell parts made in China!

 

[allmyEXes]

I'm not finding a replacement part available. Late yesterday (Sunday) I took a good look at the swivel joint. It's intact however both boots on the bottom end near the R&P are damaged and the compound joint is very dry. I'm going to take it to work with me, put it in the vise, drown it with PB Blaster, rinse that out with solvent and pack as much WB grease with the grease gun and my fingers. I need some kind of replacement rubber boot. Or make one out of a couple of layers of an old innertube with some RTV and (2)~2" hose clamps. I do have the '97 MM that is currently down and have considered removing its "Steering Intermediate Shaft" and do the same to it. Then I will use the best on the White '97 and the worst on my 1997 Merc Mountaineer which is now in "beater" status until the drivetrain is used in another Ford product. My Wife drives 400 miles a week to her job and it may be wishful thinking but I hope she can drive it until she retires ~ 8 years from now, or for a while anyway. The White'97 currently has ~130,000 miles on it. More to come and that will be posted here. Click link below.
1997 SOHC engine repair

 

[koda2000]

Hope you get it (your steering issue) sorted out. 130,000 is nothing on these vehicles as long as you keep up on the maintenance. In my experience the SOHC's seem to start having timing chain issues at 175K-200K, but perhaps with your adjustable timing chain tensioners you can keep it going w/out having to consider major surgery (as I just completed on my Sport Trac). My 2000 5.0L Mountaineer was semi-retired last Fall at 265K. We still use it for dog hauling, trips to the dump and such. She ain't pretty, but still runs/drives great other than a few engine oil leaks. My Sport Trac has 213K on it and my 5.0L EB around 200K. Both are currently running/driving perfectly and should outlast me with the annual mileage I put on vehicles these days.

If you do find a source for a replacement boot for your intermediate shaft please let us know. I'd like to replace the torn one I noticed on my ST. The link I posted earlier for the image of the intermediate shaft was a Dorman product through AutoZone. Did you find it's no longer available. I dislike Dorman stuff, but sometimes it's the only thing available.

 

[allmyEXes]

Here are 2 pictures of the steering shaft with it soaked down with PB Blaster. In 5 minutes I got it loosened up and swiveling all the way around.

There is a dimple there in the middle that might could be drilled into and a grease fitting installed.

Does anyone have 6" piece of Mountain Bike inner tube that they can put in an envelope and mail to me?
I want to use a piece of bike inner tube, a grease gun,pump it full and a heater hose clamp on each end for the dust boot assembly.
Edited 6-02-2020 @7:15 a.m.Central Time Bike inner tube will not work. I'm using a 6"x6" piece of car inner tube

 

[koda2000]

I'd drill a hole and install a grease fitting.

 

[CDW6212R]

That joint is very large, those early 96/97's I haven't seen much. I wonder if a TRE dust boot may fit that, it might be easier to install than a tire inner tube.

 

[allmyEXes]

Yeah Don, That's a good idea. This one is a bit pricey though.
Tie Rod End Boot
I might have a R&P laying around here that I could take one off of.

 

[allmyEXes]

Grease fitting installed in swivel joint.

 

[koda2000]

Grease fitting installed in swivel joint.
View attachment 316840

Good. That should keep things working properly. A covering would be nice, but as long as you grease it occasionally it should be fine.

 

[allmyEXes]

Before I left the shop I cut a piece of an old car inner tube and wrapped around it overlapping about 2". So far I have one hose clamp at the top and I need to find another clamp. I'll add the pic tomorrow.

 

[allmyEXes]

Homemade boot installed

Yes I checked the range of motion and I trimmed the excess off of the hose clamps.
I don't need to nick myself with the blood thinners that I am taking.