1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-Temporarily on hold-

[410Fortune]

A 98 5.0 lower intake should not have an egr hole only the 96-97.5 trucks had the center hole for the egr gasses to pass into the upper intake. There were like 3 different lower intakes on these things. When you get the upper off we will know more. Many of the intake spacers I have run over the years were cut from phenolic a hard type of plastic. Nowadays I see them in phenolic, plastic and even aluminum!!

Glad the plates arrived !! Keep up the good work

 

[allmyEXes]

I have a lead on a 1998 lower. That is if it is still at the JY that brother needs the throttle body off for his Mustang project. An aluminum spacer would be very nice to have.

 

[allmyEXes]

I have been busy with other projects so I have only had time to source a few more parts.
I picked up a 1998 Explorer 5.0 filter adapter and installed a 3/4"-16 filter adapter to be able to use an FL1A filter.
This piece if for another project in the future. Pictured below.

Below is the coil brackets made for Holley Smart Coils to install on an LS. What's an LS?

Here is a picture of the LS bracket flipped to work with the 5.0 plug angle

Now I need ~$850- to $900- for the set of Holley Smart Coils. I guess that I need to sell one of my many used vehicles.

Added: Yesterday I had a little accident at work. The welder Argon gauge had a low side clear gauge much like the oxygen gauge you see plugged into the wall in a Hospital room. I turned the Argon on and BOOM!!! The volume of a super large gun. My left ear rang for a few hours. Shards of plastic blew across my arm. I'm so thankful that it wasn't my face or my carotid that got peppered. Automotive and Industrial work can be very dangerous. This is 2 hours after the injury so the blood is dry by now.

 

[Josh P]

Do you have an updated list of what is for sale?

 

[allmyEXes]

I have a 1992 Explorer coming up soon. We have sold 10 or 11 different vehicles in the past year. The antique Mustangs will be last. Also currently we have a 1977 Mustang II that is a factory V-8 car. It is a solid, southern no salt vehicle. We pulled the engine out to replace the gaskets and clean it up and to clean up the engine compartment. We decided that since it is out of the car that we would replace rings, bearings and gaskets.
This is an old picture before we stated back working on it. The price is a lot higher now than $2800-. $4000- could get it now unfinished. If we paint it and install 5 stud/lug running gear and 14" Maverick slots, it will be even more. We are looking for 5 lug 14" wheels like the ones pictured that came on Mavericks and 71-73 Mustangs.

The scoop is off of some other type of Mustang II.

This is the before picture of the engine. We do have all the missing pieces.

The floor pan is in very good original shape. It doesn't have any holes and the green paint is intact. The interior used to be a light tan color and quite trashed. these black seats are special somehow. Maybe like deluxe or something? I'm usually not for painting Mustangs red however the 1978 red is a good red and there is that red stripe on the seat.

If we follow through with finishing the bodywork and painting we will have to replace both bumpers.

 

[Josh P]

How much for it painted? For the age, it appears to be in good condition. I'm also looking for an early mustang

 

[WormsExplorer]

That Mustang II would be AWESOME to have. Looks Great. I would have so much fun driving that and cleaning it up.

 

[Josh P]

That Mustang II would be AWESOME to have. Looks Great. I would have so much fun driving that and cleaning it up.

Looks like I'm not the only one lusting after it. The 2500 lb curb weight makes for some fun with a V8. The 124 hp stock needs to be addressed...

 

[WormsExplorer]

I had one WAY back when and it only had the 4 cylinder. BUT I still liked it. Its a car not seen a lot anymore. Yes it was called the Glorified Pinto but I liked it.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I have a 1992 Explorer coming up soon. We have sold 10 or 11 different vehicles in the past year. The antique Mustangs will be last. Also currently we have a 1977 Mustang II that is a factory V-8 car. It is a solid, southern no salt vehicle. We pulled the engine out to replace the gaskets and clean it up and to clean up the engine compartment. We decided that since it is out of the car that we would replace rings, bearings and gaskets.
This is an old picture before we stated back working on it. The price is a lot higher now than $2800-. $4000- could get it now unfinished. If we paint it and install 5 stud/lug running gear and 14" Maverick slots, it will be even more. We are looking for 5 lug 14" wheels like the ones pictured that came on Mavericks and 71-73 Mustangs.
View attachment 428005

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Ford 302 Base Engine 365HP

ATK HP78 Ford 302 Base Engine 365HP, Call 866-721-2315 to Speak with an ATK Crate Engine Specialist

www.high-performance-engines.com

just food for thought... maybe it could work... it has a 302 right now... right?

 

[Josh P]

347, 363...

 

[Fix4Dirt]

oooh yes 347... any chance you could stuff a cleveland under the hood?

 

[CDW6212R]

I've got a spare set of open chamber Cleveland heads, Torker intake, a 400 block and crank, AOD, Rally wheels, LOL.

That car would be very nice with just a little care and a mild 302 engine, even a stock EFI 302 would make it fun.

 

[Josh P]

oooh yes 347... any chance you could stuff a cleveland under the hood?

People have swapped 460s in, I bet one could get either a 351C or a 400 to fit

 

[allmyEXes]

I will start a new thread on here when I find an appropriate category starting with the Mustang II and other special interest Fords. I'm glad to see that Mustang IIs are getting more respect than they used to. If it wasn't for the Mustang II from 1974 to 1978, the whole Mustang line may have died. 1974 M IIs only had 4 cylinder engines but in 1975 through 1978 you could get I think only a 2bbl 302. I'm not sure if the Cobra IIs had a 4bbl.
The Mustang II front suspension was designed after the Pinto however it is a heavier duty design. By the way, if you study the suspension design of a 2003 Crown Victoria, it looks like a bigger and heavier duty mustang II sort of. The front-end guys have different names for different designs and what all 3 have in common is the upper part of the spring is in a cup above the frame rail and the bottom of the spring is against the lower control arm.
One could put a stroked 302 into an M II but I bet a M II would even be a hand full with a 2bbl 302. Many different engines will fit under the hood because from inner apron to inner apron is quite wide. A few decades ago many Mustang IIs got their front suspensions cut out and installed under many a hot rod and they would easily support big blocks of many flavors. Now fab companies make kits to install M II design front-ends into almost anything.
As for the one that me and brother own, we are keeping it simple and trying to keep the cost down. The 5 stud/lug conversion is really quite affordable starting with a Maverick 8" diffy which happens to be the narrowest that FoMoCo made and is about 1/4" narrower than the 8" that is in all V-8 Mustang IIs and most if not all v-6 M IIs. The Maverick/Granada front rotor fits the spindle and you use a mixture of readily available bearings. A hotrod industry caliper bracket, a mid '80s Camaro caliper and a few other little pieces then you are ready for 5 lug wheels of your choice. If we can find the early '70s Mustang or Maverick aluminum slots then we might follow through with that upgrade. The car still has the factory 13" wheels on it.
If anyone is interested this 1978 has a clean and clear Alabama title and it was purchased new right here in Huntsville Alabama in the late 1970s.
We are currently working on a 1963 Galaxie 500 XL 4 door that has AC, front bucket seats and console. It has a Thunderbird 390 4bbl and and automatic trans with a Ford 9" in the rear.
I'll also be selling my 1992 Explorer after the transmission is back in and some other maintenance and cleaned all back up like it was when I used to drive it.
Keep following along on my 1954 F100 on a 1999 Ranger Chassis project and also the Mountaineer 5.0 engine upgrade. I work on them as time and money allow.

 

[Josh P]

Some people narrow the explorer 8.8, if you use 2 right shafts, that would make the axle width 56.75 which would work perfectly

 

[allmyEXes]

@Josh P We have 2 Mavericks parts cars on the back lot that both have 8" differentials. Coincidentally the spring pads are in the correct location for the Mustang II. Also the rear end ratio is either 2.79 or 3.00 which directly works well with the original C-4.
If we paint the vehicle entirely then it puts the sale price up over 10K. We are a restoration shop and all of our paint jobs are show quality. We can't help it we never have been able to do quickie paint jobs. We started out in collision/insurance work so every repair that we did had to pass State Farm Insurance or other companies final approval. Body and paint materials prices have steadily increased over the decades however the quality of the materials has increased too.
Anymore that we do to the interior will make the final price go up too.

 

[410Fortune]

Interesting stuff dudes!!
Glad to see only your arm got hit, dang!! I’m still not quite sure how you blew something up with argon but I am glad it was just superficial and you are back at it

I would love and I mean love to have a gen i 4 door explorer the 92 sounds great
Someday soon I will build a gen i sploder

 

[allmyEXes]

Yeah Jamie, The low side part of the gauge giving way was quite a surprise. Yesterday when we replaced the regulator assembly with a more conventional style, the kind that looks like an oxygen regulator with two dial gauges, I set the low side at 25 psi and I was able to put my finger over the barbed fitting and hold 25 pounds with my finger. Something in the high side of the old regulator must have malfunctioned. We have an old friend that is now retired who used to work for a company like AIRGAS. When he gets back from Florida we are going to have him dismantle it in order to see what happened. Then he can throw it away for us. Fortunately new regulators are costing $40- to $80-. I guessed a lot higher.
Recently on my brother's Explorer lower intake which he is using to upgrade his 5.0 in his 1988 GT Mustang, I watched him use a 1/2" pipe thread tap in the top middle hole of the lower then he screwed an Allen head pipe plug in the hole. It seemed to work well. I guess I will do the same to my '97 lower. At least I wont have to unbolt it from the 5.0. LKQ wanted to much money for just the lower intake and then the labor to remove 2 lowers and reinstall one was starting to add up on paper.
As you can see I'm starting to work with the brackets for the Holley Smart Coils and I decided that since the 5.0 spark plugs point to the right then maybe the coil brackets should too. I showed my idea to my new Fabber friend on the highway my idea and he will be able to Heliarc the little bosses to the top of the valve covers to hold the brackets. This guy can do all kinds of things. He has a huge CNC Machine in the front room of his Fabrication Shop. He doesn't mind little bitty jobs either. This past Tuesday he finished my small welding job for me while our Mig was down. He actually did it while I was on my way to the DR to have them clean and dress my arm and check my ear drums. Thanks Brad and the Dr. even though you will never see this.
I'm working on this project one part at a time. How do you eat an Elephant? One piece at a time...

 

[allmyEXes]

It has been a couple of weeks since I have been able to work on the Mountaineer 5.0. A couple of months ago, I broke a loose all of the the water pump bolts and I started to remove the damper/HB/reluctor wheel assy. I stopped there. Today I removed the bolts and the timing cover. One bolt had broke instead of broke a loose. The eleven o'clock one. A little WD-41 and some heat and it was out in 5 minutes.