allmyEXes
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 6, 2016
- Messages
- 2,680
- Reaction score
- 1,741
- City, State
- No. Alabama USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1997 Blue Ex 4.0 SOHC
- Callsign
- KAGG 3611 (CB)
Well, I got in some more time today on the project. I was on my 3rd rh valve cover bolt when the phone rang. It was the fab guy from the fab shop that I had dropped my aluminum, a valve cover, and a picture and drawing. That was 17 to 18 weeks ago. He has finally caught up to me. They stay very busy. He is going to print a 1:1 image of the bracket. I'm going to tape it to corrugated cardboard so I can mock up the fit before anything is cut. That was one good thing that happened today.
The fill tube is going to have to be deleted so that the bracket will fit. A 1/2" pipe thread "bung" will need to be welded somewhere to be able
to plug the long skinny transmission type funnel to get oil in this thing or the very worst-case scenario is pulling the camshaft position sensor out of the block just to add oil. Inconvenient!
I must install my accessory brackets back on to the front of the engine to check the coil bracket fit. I knew that I kept somewhat organized. On the floorboard with the alternator was a container labeled 5.0 Mountaineer. It had all of the bracket bolts in it.
In this straight down view pic, I see where we may have a clearance issue. I found out that the guy who originally designed these, they fit great on the engine stand. In his 5.0 late model Mustang engine compartment, the rear of the left bracket interfered with the brake booster. On the right front it interfered with the alternator. I can see that in this picture and live in person. I also studied the driver's side and a worst-case situation is, if I can't slide the PS reservoir forward, I can mount the tank on the left inner fender well.
I had read everyone's tips and suggestions and when it sunk in that the only way to get to the O2 sensor wiring is through that access panel. That's good and bad. Bad because the console has to be slid back to remove it. You sit in the back seat to pull it IIRC. That means the seat has to be up. That means that the truck has to be cleaned out. For 2.5 years I have been putting all of the parts new and antique for my 1954 F100 in the MM. The front seats are covered too. Mostly with Mountaineer parts. In the back is even a motorhome type tow bar for the '99 Ranger/54F100. I have to empty out the truck to somewhere in the dry.
View from the back hatch window.
On another positive note, when I got home and sat down at the laptop, I finally had a breakthrough. A specific file to be able to tune my 1999 Crown Vic ARA1 CVPI with no PATS, PCM. I already have the ARA1 PCM so I would even be able to start it but now with the xdf file I will be able to adjust the fuel trims up to the 5.0. It is currently tuned for a 4.6 with a 4R70W. I will also be able to adjust it for the 3:73 MM gear ratio, turn off the back O2 sensors if I remove the cats and disable the EGR. This is a very significant breakthrough that dates all the way back to February of this year. I'll get into more of that later.
The fill tube is going to have to be deleted so that the bracket will fit. A 1/2" pipe thread "bung" will need to be welded somewhere to be able
to plug the long skinny transmission type funnel to get oil in this thing or the very worst-case scenario is pulling the camshaft position sensor out of the block just to add oil. Inconvenient!
I must install my accessory brackets back on to the front of the engine to check the coil bracket fit. I knew that I kept somewhat organized. On the floorboard with the alternator was a container labeled 5.0 Mountaineer. It had all of the bracket bolts in it.
In this straight down view pic, I see where we may have a clearance issue. I found out that the guy who originally designed these, they fit great on the engine stand. In his 5.0 late model Mustang engine compartment, the rear of the left bracket interfered with the brake booster. On the right front it interfered with the alternator. I can see that in this picture and live in person. I also studied the driver's side and a worst-case situation is, if I can't slide the PS reservoir forward, I can mount the tank on the left inner fender well.
I had read everyone's tips and suggestions and when it sunk in that the only way to get to the O2 sensor wiring is through that access panel. That's good and bad. Bad because the console has to be slid back to remove it. You sit in the back seat to pull it IIRC. That means the seat has to be up. That means that the truck has to be cleaned out. For 2.5 years I have been putting all of the parts new and antique for my 1954 F100 in the MM. The front seats are covered too. Mostly with Mountaineer parts. In the back is even a motorhome type tow bar for the '99 Ranger/54F100. I have to empty out the truck to somewhere in the dry.
View from the back hatch window.
On another positive note, when I got home and sat down at the laptop, I finally had a breakthrough. A specific file to be able to tune my 1999 Crown Vic ARA1 CVPI with no PATS, PCM. I already have the ARA1 PCM so I would even be able to start it but now with the xdf file I will be able to adjust the fuel trims up to the 5.0. It is currently tuned for a 4.6 with a 4R70W. I will also be able to adjust it for the 3:73 MM gear ratio, turn off the back O2 sensors if I remove the cats and disable the EGR. This is a very significant breakthrough that dates all the way back to February of this year. I'll get into more of that later.