1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-98-08 4R70W solenoids arrived/exhaust work- | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-98-08 4R70W solenoids arrived/exhaust work-

Logistical issues here at the shop prevent me from being able to get the MM up on the 4 post lift for at least 2 weeks. The lift has a '66 coupe up on it and it needs to go under the new carport after the '69 sports roof leaves. At that time I'll be able to work on exhaust and the transmission upgrades. Man I wish that we had a second lift.
 



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We have been juggling so many things! Early spring
You are a good shop manager!! Hang in there!
 






After getting back on site after another short trip, I was able to get in a few good hours. I let the air out of the front tires and was able to get in there easier than normal. I'm 5'8" so that made a big difference to me. If you are 5' 13" tall it probably feels ok to you to work under the hood.
I found an email from Monday night at 8:20 p.m. that a package had been delivered. It was in an obscure place. Same as the filters. Also, the aussie 5.0 part showed up. The brass piece. Bypass hose, Teflon O-rings, and the oil pressure tap extender. And another O2 sensor bung.
aussie brass and bypass hose.jpg


I had to go to the big city to get carriage bolts to turn in to studs. I had the 11 o'clock water pump bolt break back when I was taking it apart.
I also had to replace 6 misplaced bolts 2 of which are studs. Cut off the head and you have a stud.
carriage bolt.jpg

I bought the brass piece to be able to plumb in an oil pressure gauge. The stock electric switch screws back into it.
I didn't use tape so that it still has continuity. The back of the AC/PS bracket has short little bosses where the bracket bolts to the head.
There is just enough room to run the1/8" oil pressure line behind the bracket. Carefully.
oil sending unit extender.jpg

The oil adapter was reinstalled after deleting the oil cooler. Fl-299 oil filter fits in the area really well.
aussie 5.0 oil tap and fl-299.jpg

I used a 2" plumbing fitting to tap in the seal after an 1/8" strip of RTV sealer was applied.
seal install.jpg

And finally, the HB/damper/36-1 sensor ring. The missing tooth lines up with the keyway at 12 o'clock, TDC. It's turned a little.
1997 mm damper and fl-299.jpg

Also I ordered a 2 wire connector for the camshaft position sensor. More later.
 






Love the filter mod I need that!!
 






EDITED
@410Fortune (at bottom of post)
A package arrived today from California in 2 days, wow! All of the Cali stuff seems to come air without the airmail overcharge.
It's a 2.25" down-pipe that get me started on the RH exhaust system.
1997mm rh exhaust downpipe.jpg

Before it arrived I was working with the antique oil pressure gauge and console. I think a pair of gauges would fit in the top console pocket.
1997mm console & oil gauge.jpg

I've picked a spot for the oil line to go through. The yellow piece of tape on the firewall is placed a few inches from the hood release cable.
I still need to look under the dash to check for interference.
1997 mm firewall.jpg

I used a drill bit holder to check hole clearance for the fixed ferrel and nut on the line.
1997mm oil line prep hole.jpg

I cleaned up the water pump pulley and clearcoated it so it wont flash rust in the meantime. Recently a mouse found the air filter.
1997mm water pump pulley and air filter.jpg

Jamie, I modified the '97 with the heat exchanger adapter and the '98 longer style to the 3/4" standard size filters with a 3/4"x3/4" fitting.
3,4 x 3,4 fitting.jpg

The FL-299 filter is almost 2 inches longer than the FL1A filter. The D3HZ part number may mean 1973 heavy truck.
motorcraft filters.jpg

Easily looks like 12 to 16 oz additional capacity.
 






Late in the day the lower radiator hose arrived. RockAuto wasn't very clear with there information. They showed the two hoses for the heat exchanger set up and one similar to this however I believe that I found a good part number for the lower hose. Home Depot ended up being the cheapest and free shipping.
1999 ex lower radiator hose 01.jpg

Gates, I think.
1999 ex lower radiator hose 02.jpg

I had a lot of things to say about the powertrain harness but let's just say it is removed from the vehicle. I brought it home for homework.
1997mm powetrain harness.jpg

I haven't heard back about the c-n-p brackets but soon would be good.
I ordered a Dorman 674169 96 5.8 drivers side exhaust manifold. Hopefully it will fit in the tight gap. We will see.
1997 F150 drivers side exhaust manifold.JPG

There wasn't much Ford variety. Hopefully the custom steering link will work with this.
 






Last night I was up way past my bedtime 11:20 p.m. central. about 2.5 hrs from normal. I couldn't walk by the harness laying on the chest freezer without doing anything to it. I'm only about a third of the way untaped. I need to run to my shop for a bit, 9.5 miles round trip, to get Exacto Blades, 3-M black tape, a hand full of zip ties and a test meter. The harness needs to be held together in various places so that I don't end up with a big wadded up ball of wire. After you have the harness out of the vehicle and on a table, it doesn't look so intimidating. Some people don't like to deal with wiring. With the correct book, it is fairly easy to deal with. The diagrams are like road maps. Many of you remember road maps?
I'm putting this next sentence in bold print for my benefit:
Remember that 4 years ago that the truck broke down with a burned up coil and then and months later burned up a total of 7 wasted spark coils. Check every wire, one at a time particularly the coil driver circuits. Unwrapping the large transmission wiring pigtail may be the exception, but still test each wire.
tape from harness.jpg

About a third off the tape. I only stabbed myself once, so far, with the mini scissors.
 






Ahhhhh wiring
I have spent many sleepless nights with wiring diagrams running through my head! Take pics!!!

Once it’s all unwrapped just use some small pieces of tape to hold sections together this way you can easily lay more wires on top and just add more tape, Plus if you need to remove or relocate wires it’s easy to defeat the tape
 






Some oversized spring loaded clothes pin things would be nice to have to clamp different sections.
 






@410Fortune @97Sandbox @Turdle
Early on I already have an issue. Polarity of the fuel injector/s and the replacement connectors as it has to do with installing the 1999 fuel injector connector. The cheap replacement connectors appear to be wired backwards. In the picture I'm comparing the way the 1999 Crown Vic is wired to the cheap replacement are wired. It's a bit hard to see in the picture that the red wires are reversed. On the engine that Jamie used in the 2007 Ranger is the red wire opposite from the latch side like the 1999 Crown Vic harness looks like? I'm to the point of wanting to swap them today.
1999 cv fuel injector compare.jpg
 












factory has the red wire furthest away from the injector clip, opposite of the new china connector
Interesting that polarity does not matter! All these years i've been so careful to keep the + wire on the stock side.
 






A few years ago, when I was replacing a 4.0 crank position senor, both wires were black. After working on it, it wouldn't start. I had to tear back into it and swap them. You would think that it didn't matter which way that they went. I have another issue with the cheap s*@t connector. No curve in the black housing to allow the connector to slide down enough to click or clip on. Different ones are on the way.
1999 cv fuel injector no curve.jpg

The Ebay seller said that they fit 1999 Crown Vic injectors. NO, they don't fit.
 






I call it Evil Bay. Technically the connector fits in the car, just doesn't fit anything on it.
 






I was just now looking for connector pin release tools to remove pins from the 104 PCM connector. Does this kit have one that will work?
Ebay connector pin removal tool/s
 






I modified the '97 with the heat exchanger adapter and the '98 longer style to the 3/4" standard size filters with a 3/4"x3/4" fitting.
View attachment 449966
The FL-299 filter is almost 2 inches longer than the FL1A filter. The D3HZ part number may mean 1973 heavy truck.
This is an awesome upgrade. So the shorter filter mount came off a '97? I'll have to keep an eye out for one in the salvage yards. I was surprised how small of a filter is on my '99 Mounty compared the FL-1A filters I've gotten used to used to from my Sport and old XLT.
 






@97Sandbox The short filter adapter looked like this before removing the heat exchanger. I unscewed the heat exchanger from the short adapter then i screwed in a 3/4"x3/4" fitting to fit the Fl1A and FL-299 filters. I'm only aware of 1997 having the heat exchanger. Almost two years back, someone here showed one off of a 4.0 but I'm not sure if it can be made to work. Here is a pic of a complete one that I found on Ebay.
1997 FORD EXPLORER 5.0 OIL COOLER WITH ADAPTOR.jpg

Can anyone tell me if one these connector pin release tools will work on the 104 pin connector?

connector pin release tools.png
 






Some of those pin tools should work but honestly I’ve always just used a dental pick harbor freight sells a nice set of stainless picks straight curved and the like
 






Any thin strong object with a little width like a tiny screw driver will release any connector plastic terminal locks, I've R&R'd easily 150 of them on various connectors for my 99. Every connector has a unique odd plastic locking part that you have to remove/pry out gently. That is a large lock to keep the tiny terminal locks in place, and stop any random object from getting in there to release any terminals. Be sure to remove that piece first, it's an obvious contrasting color compared to the connector body itself. Those come out with most any screwdriver or similar to push or pry it out.
 



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I have the red "lock block" out. My pocket screwdriver is too wide to fit down in the Indvidual pin locks. I guess that I need to take a trip to Harbor Freight. I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to try to release the some the cut of wires/connectors in the OBD2/PCM jumper that I made, for practice. I think that I asked y'all a couple of weeks ago too. Thanks again guys.
 






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