1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-98-08 4R70W solenoids arrived/exhaust work- | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-98-08 4R70W solenoids arrived/exhaust work-

My EECIV tuning has been limited to fullsize, MAF, Bronco's and I converted a 95 F150 to MAF. I have tuned E4OD, 5R44E, and now 4R70W. EECV tuning in a supercharged Ranger, and now my Explorer. Never did tune a Mustang, though I owned a Fox Body for a bit, it was like new and I didn't molest it.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Early November was the last time that I was able to work on some engine parts for the '97 MM 5.0. Today, before I even got started it dawned on me that I may not have enough gray hi-temp RTV for the timing cover and the water pump. I finished removing the passenger side valve cover and it is sitting on the head to keep it covered. It will be off long enough to weld up the oil fill hole that would interfere with the coil-near-plug brackets. Of course, cleaning and painting too.
I disconnected the high pressure power steering hose and a little white plastic seal fell out or off of the line. Would that be a common Ford part?
Below is a picture of Stephen R's, from VA, 5.0 coil-near-plug set-up. I'm starting with his design of brackets and work it out from there.
This is so cool that I'll show it again. Look out LSs. (L S es)
1997 ps line seal.jpg




reinerbrackets3.jpg

I would like to have a picture of it complete. This is bad azz...
 






Early November was the last time that I was able to work on some engine parts for the '97 MM 5.0. Today, before I even got started it dawned on me that I may not have enough gray hi-temp RTV for the timing cover and the water pump. I finished removing the passenger side valve cover and it is sitting on the head to keep it covered. It will be off long enough to weld up the oil fill hole that would interfere with the coil-near-plug brackets. Of course, cleaning and painting too.
I disconnected the high pressure power steering hose and a little white plastic seal fell out or off of the line. Would that be a common Ford part?
Below is a picture of Stephen R's, from VA, 5.0 coil-near-plug set-up. I'm starting with his design of brackets and work it out from there.
This is so cool that I'll show it again. Look out LSs. (L S es)
View attachment 448402



View attachment 448403
I would like to have a picture of it complete. This is bad azz...
Still not yours....
 






I found a picture of the man with his 5.0
stephen riner 5.0.PNG
 






That white piece is the Teflon seal which is in both ends of the high pressure PS hose. You need to install a new seal, those are virtually always a one use item. I've tried to use Teflon tape once, and the old seal one time that it didn't come apart like yours. I had a leak with the tape and just a slight leak with the old part, both times were about 20 years ago. That's when I hunted the seals locally, I got about four then, Ford didn't ever sell them that I know of. I've tried to buy a new hose when I had to replace the PS pump, I have one again now to do.

I like that SN95 COP layout, that will work well for his, and yours. I'll do something similar too, I will have a priority to leave space over the right valve cover for my later intake plenum(GT500 TB and plenum). The space is tight back there.
 












If those work for you, I'll definitely be ordering a pack. The plastic on my hose was pretty rough when I put it back. I'd just assume replace it before I spray ATF all over my clean engine bay.
 






@97Sandbox I'm hoping that someone will say "yeah, the Gen 2s have the type 3 steering"... Then I'll order a pack and sell fellow Explorer owners 4 ct for a nominal fee so that I don't own 20 plus for the rest of my life,lol.
 






.
Here is what I used
IMG_20231225_141734.jpg
 






I never use new ones and if the old one is torn I remove it. I don’t have any leaks? To me it looks like the seal should be made at the flare there should be no need for a seal at the top? Maybe I’m wrong but I don’t have leaks so….I do put orange rtv on the threads similar to what I think Ford did
 






@97Sandbox I'm hoping that someone will say "yeah, the Gen 2s have the type 3 steering"... Then I'll order a pack and sell fellow Explorer owners 4 ct for a nominal fee so that I don't own 20 plus for the rest of my life,lol.
If you have your hose off, you could measure the fitting, looks like that amazon listing has a surprising amount of detail. I'd pull my hose off and hit it with the caliper, but my Mounty is all snowed in today!
 






Measuring fitting on line.
"97mmhppumpline.jpg"
 






There are about three sizes common to see in searching, I took a new hose when I found them 20+ years ago to compare. That one on Amazon looks right, but the size is hard to say. I used my deep well 10mm socket to stretch the new seals when I put them on. So the inner diameter is slightly larger than what the old Craftsman 10mm deep well is at the working end.
 






Tuesday January 2nd 2024.
97mmvc1.jpg

97mmvc2.jpg

97mmvc3.jpg

97mmvc4.jpg
 






The 'fitting' template has been cut. I will use it to check the fit of the bracket before the 3/16" aluminum plate brackets will be cut.
I can mark or grind away any interference spots.

test bracket.jpg

I purchased a steel conduit coupling to cut off a piece off it to weld to the valve cover for an oil fill port. It was galvanized plated.
I removed the plating by cooking the piece on the woodstove chimney.
cooked coupling.jpg
 






After being iced out of being able to work for a week, finally I have been able to get back around to the '97 Mountaineer project. I have been posting things on here of the non-automotive work that I have been doing. Last it was fixing the recoil on the 4 panel door and repairing a fluorescent light. I often wonder why I don't seem to get much automotive repair time in and then just as recent as last week, I read through my non-automotive thread, and I see where a lot of my time goes. Back to the MM.
Yesterday I was able to start working with the template that will be the coil-near-plug bracket and I'm running in to fitment issues. The bracket was designed for a 5.0 that all of the exhaust runners head down before they unite at the collector. On the Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 trucks, this is not the case. The right-side fits ok with only a little interference with the AC box. I stripped a heat shield off of the box and gained a little room. I didn't want to do this because I know that the heat shield is on there for a reason. The left lower corner of the bracket can be trimmed a bit. Also the coils need to slide up the bracket about a half to an inch for more boot clearance. The upper intake and spacer need to temporarily go back on to check all of the clearance points.
The picture is of the bracket on the right side and the coil is sitting in the 3rd position. I think I can make it work.
5.0 coil bracket 01.jpg

The coil is sitting in the fourth position here.
5.0 coil bracket 02.jpg

Another view of the passenger side.
5.0 coil bracket 03.jpg

The left, drivers side US, is where all of the problems are.
5.0 coil bracket 05.jpg

And a picture of the coil sitting in the third position in the bracket. The coil wire would be on the header.
5.0 coil bracket 04.jpg

@410Fortune Jamie, do you have an extra driver's side valve cover. The passenger side cover needs to be swapped out to a driver's side with no oil fill hump on it.
I know that we have had numerous discussions about exhaust manifold and header interference, but I'm going to have to do something. even if it I have to make a 2-piece steering shaft with a universal joint and Heim joint to relocate the steering shaft in order to use some kind of Ford passenger car header/s that all the runners head down before the collector. Any ideas and anyone have an extra driver's side valve cover?
Below, 1980 Ford truck exhaust manifold picture.
1980 F150 5.0 d side ex manifold.JPG
 






Here is a picture of some Ranger 5.0 swap headers. I wonder if they will work on the 5.0 Moutaineer if I build a custom steering rod. Has anyone used these on a Ranger 5.0 swap project?
Hedman 5.0 headers.JPG
 






Ranger 5.0 swap headers are designed to work with rwd trucks

I do not have a spare valve cover but I can get one if needed

Maybe space the coils up an inch or so off the bracket? Would that help?
 






After I install the spacer and intake I will see how much room that I might have to space individual coils up a bit.
I'm looking at the 82-97 Ranger 5.0 swap headers and wondering if the left one would fit with a modified steering linkage. If so, I wouldn't need the pair.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That left collector is tight in the OEM orientation next to the fuel/brake lines etc, that header might move it outboard and that wouldn't work. It's just hard to say without a test fitting.
 






Back
Top