1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-Temporarily on hold- | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1997 MM 5.0 TC & WP refresh & ignition coil-near-plug conversion-Temporarily on hold-

Well, I got in some more time today on the project. I was on my 3rd rh valve cover bolt when the phone rang. It was the fab guy from the fab shop that I had dropped my aluminum, a valve cover, and a picture and drawing. That was 17 to 18 weeks ago. He has finally caught up to me. They stay very busy. He is going to print a 1:1 image of the bracket. I'm going to tape it to corrugated cardboard so I can mock up the fit before anything is cut. That was one good thing that happened today.
1997eng102523-01.jpg

The fill tube is going to have to be deleted so that the bracket will fit. A 1/2" pipe thread "bung" will need to be welded somewhere to be able
to plug the long skinny transmission type funnel to get oil in this thing or the very worst-case scenario is pulling the camshaft position sensor out of the block just to add oil. Inconvenient!
1997eng102523-02.jpg

I must install my accessory brackets back on to the front of the engine to check the coil bracket fit. I knew that I kept somewhat organized. On the floorboard with the alternator was a container labeled 5.0 Mountaineer. It had all of the bracket bolts in it.
1997eng102523-04.jpg

In this straight down view pic, I see where we may have a clearance issue. I found out that the guy who originally designed these, they fit great on the engine stand. In his 5.0 late model Mustang engine compartment, the rear of the left bracket interfered with the brake booster. On the right front it interfered with the alternator. I can see that in this picture and live in person. I also studied the driver's side and a worst-case situation is, if I can't slide the PS reservoir forward, I can mount the tank on the left inner fender well.
I had read everyone's tips and suggestions and when it sunk in that the only way to get to the O2 sensor wiring is through that access panel. That's good and bad. Bad because the console has to be slid back to remove it. You sit in the back seat to pull it IIRC. That means the seat has to be up. That means that the truck has to be cleaned out. For 2.5 years I have been putting all of the parts new and antique for my 1954 F100 in the MM. The front seats are covered too. Mostly with Mountaineer parts. In the back is even a motorhome type tow bar for the '99 Ranger/54F100. I have to empty out the truck to somewhere in the dry.
1997eng102523-03.jpg

View from the back hatch window.
On another positive note, when I got home and sat down at the laptop, I finally had a breakthrough. A specific file to be able to tune my 1999 Crown Vic ARA1 CVPI with no PATS, PCM. I already have the ARA1 PCM so I would even be able to start it but now with the xdf file I will be able to adjust the fuel trims up to the 5.0. It is currently tuned for a 4.6 with a 4R70W. I will also be able to adjust it for the 3:73 MM gear ratio, turn off the back O2 sensors if I remove the cats and disable the EGR. This is a very significant breakthrough that dates all the way back to February of this year. I'll get into more of that later.
 



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10-27-23 I was unable to put hands on the project today. Half of the day was spent in Huntsville at the cancer Dr with my wife to prepare for chemotherapy. In mid-September she had surgery to remove part of her upper lobe that had a cancerous spot in it. Now Drs are recommending 3 rounds of chemo next. We will get her well.
A wiring diagram showed up at home Thursday for a 1999 Ranger. Also a 1987 Aerostar book arrived at the shop. Over the past few months I've collected up 1999 Crown Vic, 2003 Crown Vic, a kind of rare 1997 Mountaineer book for the mid-year Mountaineer built in March 1996 (1996 and a 1/2) and the Ranger and Aerostar book. I've been asking Jamie several wiring questions and watching him have determined that on these 20-year-old Fords you need to have the same year book as what you are working on. We even bought a 2003 Mustang wiring book for the shop. I have a small investment in the books but the Aerostar book was cheap! $6- including shipping.
1997eng102723-01.jpg

I've been looking for a spot to add 2 wideband O2 sensors to the headers. One for the stand alone AFR gauge and one for a sensor to go back to the PCM to send info to a Real Time tuning program. I you delete your EGR you can reassign the EGR wire, a 5 volt analog input to hook up to the separate O2 sensor.
The right-hand header may just have enough room to add 2 bungs side by side. Leave room for your socket & ratchet. I have my 2nd set of headers to "stand in" for pictures at the moment. I have yet to remove the one on the right hand side of the 5.0. I just don't see room on the left side header to install a bung. There is not any kind of collector at the flange. Right side pictured first.
1997eng102723-02.jpg

1997eng192723-03.jpg

At least I will only be removing one exhaust header. It is a pain on these trucks. The bung welds need to be really good with no leaks.
 






Good plan, locate them now and do it slowly, do the welding well. Also be sure to place the O2's on the upper half, always pointing down some, moisture can kill them.
 






@CDW6212R @410Fortune @97Sandbox @Turdle It's approximately 3 a.m., 4 a.m.? It may be a time change weekend. I kind of wish the time would stay where it is instead of falling back. I really should still be sleeping. I'll pay for it later.
Yesterday I was brainstorming a future situation on the truck with Jamie. I'll get into that in a few weeks. I forget that we are in different time zones. I'm well awake when he is getting his first cup of coffee. I'm in the central time zone so I'm pretty sure that we are at least 2 zones apart.
Don, it does look like I can get the O2 sensors up on top or a bit sideways, maybe a 10 o'clock angle of the right-side header. I need to take a look up under the fender well again.
For the plastic harness retainer on the left side head, the panel trim popper tool has way too much angle on it. I tried a straight screwdriver, and it didn't work either. I'm going to have to jack it up, stick a stand under it and pull the left side front wheel to deal with it. I may just have to cut the tape. Thanks Jamie and Grant for the suggestions. Where does that wire go anyway?
Some sorting headway was made in the poor truck. The big '54 F100 parts are out and a tote in the back is getting the Mountaineer parts put in order such that the first part I will need will be on top (upper engine stuff). I've kept anything front engine, timing cover, HB/damper/pulley combo front bracket, water pump, timing chain/gear set etc. in a separate place to be put back on next.
I need to get the right-side valve cover modified to go back on before the bracket template test fit. I will probably get the call early this week to come get the "test" template.
When I first sat down here, I looked up Gen 2 console removal. I now remember removing one once before. Thanks, Jon (Turdle) for the write up. It has been a popular thread.
Gen II console removal Jon, in the write up, is your Explorer a 5.0 powered truck?
I will get it out sometime this week and get to the O2 sensor and transmission wiring. Is the Vehicle Speed Sensor wiring part of this?
Picture added:
Picture below is borrowed from Grant. Friday with this bracket bolted to the head, I couldn't quite make out what was going on. I need to notch the bracket for the hose to sit forward to gain a small amount of clearance, so it won't be in the way of the coil-near-plug bracket. I'll have to drill & tap new holes for the reservoir to go forward as well. I had thought of moving the reservoir to the fender apron; however, I see that the tank would be backwards and the 5/8" outlet would be pointing the wrong way.
1997engPSpumpbracketmod.jpg
 






I’m in north Idaho and we are on pacific time same time zone as cali

97 has a speed sensor in the tailhousing so yes the vss wiring is part of the trans wiring and will need to be unplugged as well
 






Central time here. Yes the writeup truck was a V8. The black one, turdle link in signature.

I'm observing but not really experienced in the direction you are going here. If I do have an idea though you can count on reading it.
 






Thanks Jon. I'm having to entirely remove the powertrain control harness for two reasons. the first has to do with 3.5 years ago, I had a break down that involved one of the waisted spark coils had malfunctioned and burned up the coil. & burned up 6 more coils as I attempted to fix it. I finally quit trying to fix what didn't want to be fixed. I'll be able to see if it was a harness problem, maybe power wires and ground wires shorting out? or if it was the PCM. I don't know.
After that, I was wanting to use the Holley Terminator Max? pcm and harness like Jamie used on his project but make it coil-near-plug. But it was a little too expensive for me and then I shifted my plan. Now I'm going to use a Ford pcm and wiring harness from a coil-on-plug Crown Victoria. I will be using parts from the 1997 Mountaineer harness and most of the harness from the Crown Vic. The harness work is an involved segment of the project. But I do have the wiring books to help me do this. So just as soon as I get this harness removed from the MM, I can get started on the hybrid harness. I've printed up some labels for the wires to help this process go better. The label maker is a worthwhile investment, but masking tape would work if that was all that someone had to make labels.
1997engharness labels.jpg

I'm pretty sure that I will need more labels.
 






Excellent!!!
 






I'm also central time: used to be on the eastern edge (Milwaukee), now I'm on the western one (mid-Nebraska).

I took off my P/S reservoir yesterday for further cleaning, and after looking more at the bracket, I don't think there would be much issue drilling holes further forward and shifting the tank a little, as long as you notch for the hose like you said.
 






Make sure you clean the filter inside the ps reservoir! Carb cleaner does wonders to that sucker
 






Make sure you clean the filter inside the ps reservoir! Carb cleaner does wonders to that sucker
I tried acetone and was unimpressed with the results. I'll be sure to try carb cleaner before I put everything back together.
 






Good reminder about the tank and I would like to get the whole ps system flushed and use a clear type hydraulic fluid from R King or T. Supply and get the used to be red transmission fluid out of it, if basic hydraulic fluid is appropriate.
Monday a new Bosch 02 sensor was in the mail box. Saturday in my sea (C) box I found a tool that may help me pop the cristmas tree out of the back of the drivers cylinder head. Maybe notch the flat end? Has anyone seen this tool before?
boschO2.jpg
little jimmie.jpg

It's a tool to work on bee hives. Stamped in it says "little jimmie"
 






If you can sneak the tool in there and wedge something behind it to pry against, I bet that'll give you the best chance.
 






I run power steering
Fluid in these not Mercon. After many years of debate I researched the crap out of it. Power steering fluid is cheaper and I like the clear fluid like you
 






Has anyone seen one of these 1.5" spacers? Does anyone know if a 2" aluminum spacer is available or anyone that can make one?
1.5" 5.0 intake spacer
1.5inchintakespacer.png
 






You do not want aluminum it is a great Conductor of heat
plastic is better

The spacer you posted above is very nice
 






@donalds I'm gonna have a whole lot of head room under the '54F100 hood. I need a little more room for a different design of Coil-near-plug brackets. It's starting to look like the current design is going to interfere with the AC box.
reinerbrackets3.jpg
 






That's sexy!
 






It's not mine either! but it is a 5.0 that is now in an SN95 Mustang body that used to be V-6 powered.
 



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