1997 Mountaineer: Exhaust Manifold crack and Torque Converter Lock-up Problem

[BabyNapes]

Over the summer, I bought a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 AWD that looks brand new with 53,000 miles. It was not driven a lot and garage kept since new. After the test drive, a trip to a mechanic, and some research here, I figured that I had the typical 5.0 exhaust manifold crack. At the 56,000 service my dealer found:

Right Exhaust Manifold: Cost to replace with Ford replacement part and labor: $1,200

The head mechanic also confirmed my suspicion that the torque converter is not locking up/unlocking correctly: I'm getting an occasional shake as it locks and unlocks at varying speeds and it feels like it is not unlocking when it should. They recommended a transmission flush and new fluid as the first step before moving on to readjusting/changing some parts.

Does the price of the manifold replacement seem about right? Any advice on aftermarket parts that are more durable/cheaper?

Any advice on the torque converter lock up/possible solutions? Is this a common problem on the 5.0?

Thanks for your help.

 

[team]

does that price include the **** lube? because they are trying to snap one off in you!

 

[imp]

$1200 ??

Unless the 5.0 represents a real "bear" to get at exh. manifold, the price quoted is high, IMO only.

Regarding the Converter Clutch, it would help to know which transmission is involved here. Usually, not always, C.C. problems show up as either fails to engage, or fails to unlock, in which case the engine stalls upon coming to a standstill. The solenoid which controls C.C. is prone to failure, according to published reports, and is a relatively easy fix, IF that's the cause. In view of the low mileage, my guess would be that the clutch itself is not the source of the trouble; if it IS, the repair is far more expensive-- torque converter replacement.

Sorry I am not knowledgeable, if yours is the 5-speed transmission predecessor to my own 5R55S, as I do know mine will generate a trouble code, and "O/D OFF" light flashing if solenoid failure occurs, or C.C. engage/disengage fails, but yours may not do that. imp

 

[BabyNapes]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I have had a lot of work done at this dealer cheaper than my local smaller mechanics can do the work, but the $1200 still seemed steep to me. They explained that the exhaust manifold is hard to get to on the 5.0 and the bolts often break off and must be drilled out. If it comes out easy, they said it could be a little cheaper.

The transmission is the 4R70W 4-speed that is supposed to be sturdy and more reliable than the transmissions paired to the V6 motors. I have no lights or codes, only the shudder. I think it is likely a solenoid because of the low mileage and easy driving in this truck's past.

 

[Fifty150]

Okay, I can see it. OEM exhaust manifold is about $350 just for the part at dealership prices. Then there's at least another $100 worth of shop supplies that they're charging for. They probably want about a day's worth of labor; 8 billable hours at whatever their rates are. My local shop hours are $140 - $160. Your local market may be cheaper. Find a smaller shop to do the work. Then get some Torque Monster Headers to replace both manifolds.

 

[JoeMahma]

Search online and you can find the manifold for under 150.00 and it's not really that hard to do. Had mine out and in in a few hours.

 

[GETMYBELTSON]

Then get some Torque Monster Headers to replace both manifolds.

Which cost over 5x as much (since you can get a manifold for $120 on rockauto) not to mention over double the cost for the install (since he is replacing an extra manifold).

 

[OneLever]

They explained that the exhaust manifold is hard to get to on the 5.0

That is not true. You take off the plastic wheel well covers and there's more room than you know what to do with. Straight shot to the exhaust manifolds, and the wheel well covers come off easy.

and the bolts often break off and must be drilled out.

That is true though. Need to soak them for a bit in PB Blaster. Even then they might snap, but they can be drilled and extracted.

I have no lights or codes, only the shudder.

Constant shudder or just hard shifts? I've got hard shifts that started at around 157,000 mi. and I'm at about 162,000 now. Getting too cold to look at now though or I'd drop the pan and change the fluid.

Here is a great write up by MountaineerGreen on removing the exhaust manifolds on a V8: Link

 

[swetrid]

I think rock auto lists exhaust manifolds for like $65 each.

 

[GETMYBELTSON]

I think rock auto lists exhaust manifolds for like $65 each.

Not for pre-98s (or is it pre-99s?)

 

[sbkold]

Ressurecting this thread because my 1997 2wd V8 is doing the same exact lockup concern the OP's was.

Has anyone figured out what this was?

 

[BabyNapes]

Sorry for the lack of update. I went ahead with the transmission flush at the Ford dealer. As soon as I left I could tell a big difference. I have no driven 2,000-2,500 miles since the transmission flush and there is no hint of torque converter lock-up shudder. The transmission flush has fixed the problem (for now anyway). I'm hoping this will last for quite a while.

My original transmission fluid (put in when the truck was built in 1997) was still very clean and full before the flush. However, even with the low miles (59,000 at the flush, 53,000 when I started noticing it), I think the fluid has lost its viscosity due to age and lack of use.

As for the exhaust manifold, I have left it be since it only makes a little noise the first time I take off after starting the truck. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse and I cannot tell any major performance change (though I am sure there is likely a minimal power loss). When the exhaust manifolds do need replaced, I'm going to order a set of replacements of the internet and have a local mechanic tackle it (or give it a shot in the garage after reading up on here).

 

[rabbit91]

hows it holding up? my tranny is doing the same thing

 

[BabyNapes]

Update

It's at just over 62,000 miles and it is still performing well. I drive it with no worry about reliability and it is still shifting smoothly. I always try to pay attention to the shifts and torque-converter lock-up and am happy to report that there is no shudder happening now. With all of the reports that these transmissions last so long with minimal maintenance, I think it is probably good go to go.

Looks like a transmission flush is the way to go. It's a cheap way to prevent major transmission damage later on. In fact, I'm becoming a firm believer in a trans flush at 50,000-60,000 miles. Had my 2005 Focus flushed at approx. 60,000 miles as the fluid was looking dirty.

As far as the exhaust manifolds go, I still haven't done anything with them. The noise made may be a little bit more prevalent now but it is still quiet and goes away after the engine is up to operating temperature (except for really cold days or full throttle). I may look into getting the Dorman (or other non-Ford) replacements in the future if it gets worse/I find someone I trust to put them on who won't charge a ton of money.

 

[Bessie]

I've had my cracked manifold quoted about 8 years ago @ 140,000 miles and I decided not to replace it. My check engine light has been on ever since and the noise isn't too bad. I'm now at 300,000 miles and the only thing crazy is that the check engine light hasn't burned out yet.