1997 mountaineer no start issue relay good but doesn't click

[danofoak]

Hi people. I was driving my Mountaineer and it died the other day. Tried adding gas to no effect. towed it home and am trying to figure this out. I have checked the button sensor under the paasenger side dash , it is not tripped. I checked my 20 amp fuse , it is fine. I checked my relay in the fuse box and it works, but, it does not click when I put it back in the connector when the key is on. So I started looking arouind near the tank and there is a wire harness coming out of the gas tank with a connection and then it splits and goes through the floor, and to a small realy looking plastic piece that is monted on the frame. 2 questions. Anyone know what the relay looking thing is? I searched and have not found info on it yet. Also any idea why the relay doesn't click when i reinsert it with the key on. The other realys do click when i reinsert them. I tried switching them around several times. Any help is appreciated. I am tired and it has been 100 degrees today ,hot.

 

[Rick]

Will the engine crank, but not start?

 

[danofoak]

Will the engine crank, but not start?

Oh it will crank. it will start too if i spray starting fluid in the throttle body.

 

[Rick]

Try replacing replacing the fuel pump relay with a relay you can do without just for the test.

 

[Rick]

Forgot to ask, can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to "on" without going all the way to "start". The pump should make a bit of noise for just a second or two until it builds pressure.

 

[danofoak]

Forgot to ask, can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to "on" without going all the way to "start". The pump should make a bit of noise for just a second or two until it builds pressure.

Yes replaced the relay several times with the other working ones. The fuel pump is not making any noise. I am baffled as to why I can't get the relay to click when I replace it with the key on. Just not wanting to pull the tank to replace the pump until I know it is bad. Also still can't figure out what the relay looking item is near the connector in front of the gas tank on the frame. With it being right there near the wiring going to the gas tank, I gotta figure out what is is, it would be an easy replace, it is only 2 bolts and a connector. Can;t find it on Autozone .com or AdvanceAuto .com either ???

 

[Turdle]

Disconnect the connector to the fuel pump basket-
using a volt meter, monitor the fuel pump power leads during the first 3 seconds after switching the key on. You should see around 11.2 volts for the first 2-3 seconds only-then it will drop off.

You may need a helper to turn the key on and off while you read your meter.

 

[danofoak]

Disconnect the connector to the fuel pump basket-
using a volt meter, monitor the fuel pump power leads during the first 3 seconds after switching the key on. You should see around 11.2 volts for the first 2-3 seconds only-then it will drop off.

You may need a helper to turn the key on and off while you read your meter.

I do not have a tester and no way to get to the store at this moment. Do you happen to know if this would work if the relay is not powering up?

 

[Turdle]

Proper troubleshooting technique would be to probe for power at the pump. That will establish which way to go ---back toward the relay, or, onward to the pump.

If the relay is not working, you will have no power at the pump connector. I do not know what this "frame" relay is you speak of because I am kind of confused as how a wire can go through the floor and still be against the frame

 

[danofoak]

Proper troubleshooting technique would be to probe for power at the pump. That will establish which way to go ---back toward the relay, or, onward to the pump.

If the relay is not working, you will have no power at the pump connector. I do not know what this "frame" relay is you speak of because I am kind of confused as how a wire can go through the floor and still be against the frame

No the wiring harness goes through the floor, but before it has a split off that goes to the plastic part that looks like a relay or something. The wires just connect to it, they do not come out on the other side of it and lead somewhere else. Sorry for the confusion.I will try and get a voltmeter soon.

 

[mawrazen]

On my 1994, I had a similar problem. The fuel pump relay was not getting power and I traced it to the Main power distribution box. The leads from the fuses under the hood get hot and melt over time. I had to refurbish the female slots to the FPR and the fuse that leads to it. Problem solved!

 

[danofoak]

On my 1994, I had a similar problem. The fuel pump relay was not getting power and I traced it to the Main power distribution box. The leads from the fuses under the hood get hot and melt over time. I had to refurbish the female slots to the FPR and the fuse that leads to it. Problem solved!

Well it was a 100 degree day when this happened yesterday. Mine is a 1997 , wonder where the wires are for the FPR. The relay is in the power distribution box on mine. I felt under the power distribution box and felt a harness with a million wires leading to other harnesses. AAHHHHH. Could the part where thwe relay connects inside the PDB be bad itself? Like where it plugs into? Definitely could have melted yesterday. And I had no prior symptoms , just started it , drove a minute , and then it quit on the road and wouldn't restart. Actually it would barley start and sputter, but I couldn't give it gas. Now it just turns over, unless I squirt starting fluid in the throttle body, then it starts right up.