1997 Rear Bumper Removal at Junkyard - advice needed | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1997 Rear Bumper Removal at Junkyard - advice needed

ELeBlanc

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December 12, 2016
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Location
brooklyn ny
City, State
brooklyn, ny
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer
So I picked removed the driver's side quarter panel window at the junkyard (120 miles from home). Cost was $17. Installed it on my non-working 1997 5.0 AWD. My first real work on the vehicle!!

While at the Junkyard I tried to remove the a bumper from a 96 or 97. I had an 18" breaker bar. I could not get all bolts off on any of the explorers. In most cases I could not get the first bolt off.

Question 1: I think I' looking for 91-97 explorers - right?

Question 2: Help with ideas to remove the bolts. I can't bring a torch or anything electric. Battery powered is Ok.

Question 3: Does anyone sell the bracket that holds the bumper? None on eBay.
 



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You are way up north, it may be very tough to remove many things in JYd's there. I suggest hunting for one for sale that you can pick up, it may be worth the extra cost rather than the PITA to get it at a JY. Search a while and weigh the costs for some things like the bumper, to get it yourself, or buy it already off.

You might do well to also begin on some rust prevention items, sprays or treatments you can do easily at home. Rust might be the biggest obstacle to vehicle care in many places like NY.
 






Cost of bumper at "remove it yourself" junkyard is $33. On one vehicle I got 3 of 4 bolts off. On others not even one.
 






I understand the costs, I like to go to a JY or two here, but finding the time and do it, not so easy for me.

If you got 3/4 of the bolts off, I'd consider trying again on that bolt, with a short pipe length to extend the breaker bar. You might try to get what you find possible at a JY for the lowest cost, and bite the bullet on some things which won't let go there.
 






longer breaker bar
18" is too short for those stubborn nuts
Bring some PB blaster and a longer breaker bar to get them loose
After you get them loose they come right off, only 4 nuts and the whole bumper is yours. You will have to clip the wires for the license plate lights

Can you practice at home taking the bumper off of your 97?
 






The best way to get rusted bolts off is with leverage, an impact wrench, penetrating oil, leverage (a long 1/2" breaker bar and perhaps a length of pipe) and heat (like a hand held torch using MAP gas - assuming the yard will allow you to use a torch). Being able to break a rusted bolt is still a success. You can always buy new bolts at any hardware store.

I'm not aware of anyone selling new bumper brackets, or do I know which years are interchangeable. I'd suggest you stick with '95-01 Explorers and eBay if you can't find/get off any good ones at the salvage yard.

A good quality battery operated impact wrench is worth it's weight in gold when working on a rusty vehicle and should be the next tool investment you make after basic had tools.
 






410Fortune - thank you for your continuous help! I've got the quarter panel window installed. Bought some ball peen hammers and I'm going to try strategically wacking to be able to get a new tail light back in place and also some waching on the part of the hatch that sits right by the tail light because now its hitting the tail light. Once all that is done I'll have two identical 1997 White 5.0L AWDs and I'll have to figure out what to do with the second because I can't afford insurance for two vehicles on the road.

Back to suggestions. I'll try PB Blaster and longer breaker bar or by pipe extension.
 






crescent wrench works really well at bending sheet metal

Sell one or keep as a spare! Some insurance companies might allow you to insure two vehicles, but pay a lower rate if you explain to them that they are both limited use vehicles/only driving one at a time. Worth a phone call. If not then just switch the insurance back and forth as you decide which truck is your favorite (or it decides for you)
 






410Fortune - thank you for your continuous help! I've got the quarter panel window installed. Bought some ball peen hammers and I'm going to try strategically wacking to be able to get a new tail light back in place and also some waching on the part of the hatch that sits right by the tail light because now its hitting the tail light. Once all that is done I'll have two identical 1997 White 5.0L AWDs and I'll have to figure out what to do with the second because I can't afford insurance for two vehicles on the road.

Back to suggestions. I'll try PB Blaster and longer breaker bar or by pipe extension.

Note: If you're using a 3/8" breaker bar, adding a too-long length of pipe to it will likely break the head of the breaker bar off. Better to get a 1/2" breaker bar and 1/2" socket set.
 






The best way to get rusted bolts off is with leverage, an impact wrench, penetrating oil, leverage (a long 1/2" breaker bar and perhaps a length of pipe) and heat (like a hand held torch using MAP gas - assuming the yard will allow you to use a torch). Being able to break a rusted bolt is still a success. You can always buy new bolts at any hardware store.

I'm not aware of anyone selling new bumper brackets, or do I know which years are interchangeable. I'd suggest you stick with '95-01 Explorers and eBay if you can't find/get off any good ones at the salvage yard.

A good quality battery operated impact wrench is worth it's weight in gold when working on a rusty vehicle and should be the next tool investment you make after basic had tools.

Koda2000 - also thank you to your continuous help! You say 95-01 but I thought for the rear bumpers I'm looking got 1991-1997?? WHAT ABOUT FROM A SPORT?

No torches.. I see Harbor Freight has small butane torch - maybe I can get one of these in....
 






The bumper on the '97 has the license plate in it, beginning in '98 the license plate moved to the liftgate. '95-'97 should be a direct swap. I don't know about '91-'94. They may be the same, but I know nothing about the Gen I Explorers. If you can find a '95-'97 rear bumper you know that will be the same. I think the '95-'97 Sport and 4-door rear bumpers are the same, but I have no experience with that swap.

My telling you that you could use '95-'01 was regarding the bumper brackets, which I believe to be all the same even though the bumpers are different.
 






91-94 is real similar to 95-97 as far as back bumper goes
gen I explorer, 91-94 sport also the same
ford-explorer-1994-10.jpg


Gen II, 95-97, 96 & 96 sport also the same
The Mercury mountaineer would be the same except it had reflectors in the back bumper and no chrome
171_191417_150000000.jpg
 






It's been a while, and kinda related, but I think I removed the rear OEM tow hook from Sports using a dead-blow hammer and Stanley polished long shank wrenches.
 






I had a 97 bumper on 1 of my 1st gens. Bolted up fine. 91-97 should work.
 






longer breaker bar
18" is too short for those stubborn nuts
Bring some PB blaster and a longer breaker bar to get them loose
After you get them loose they come right off, only 4 nuts and the whole bumper is yours. You will have to clip the wires for the license plate lights

Can you practice at home taking the bumper off of your 97?

So on of the Junkyard Explorers I got 3 of the 4 loose. Fourth no way - toooo tight. On the other five I couldn't get the first nut off. I was hoping 98-99 would work thereby significantly increasing the population I can try. My old 97 with the mashed bumper, the two nuts on the non-mashed side came off and on the mashed side I'm going to have to bring it to someone with more tools, more people to remove.

This junkyard is 100 miles from anyone I know so no help possible. If longer breaker bar and PB blaster fails then I may have to consider 98-99 and finding a way to mount the license plate somewhere somehow in the back.
 






So on of the Junkyard Explorers I got 3 of the 4 loose. Fourth no way - toooo tight. On the other five I couldn't get the first nut off. I was hoping 98-99 would work thereby significantly increasing the population I can try. My old 97 with the mashed bumper, the two nuts on the non-mashed side came off and on the mashed side I'm going to have to bring it to someone with more tools, more people to remove.

This junkyard is 100 miles from anyone I know so no help possible. If longer breaker bar and PB blaster fails then I may have to consider 98-99 and finding a way to mount the license plate somewhere somehow in the back.
My rear bumper had rotted out brackets. And they are impossible to find for 95-97! When I junk my truck I'll be sure to list them online in case someone needs them. I had to cut out my bolts an angle grinder. My bumper is also starting to rust thru.

Eastern NY really has no pick and pulls. There are lots of Junkyards though in NYC but I doubt they keep 20yo cars. There is a very good one near Binghampton, they had a bunch of Exes. That is about 2hrs from me and probably close to 3 from you.
 






97-01 bumper will bolt up, but with no place for license plate or lights
You can do it! Longer breaker bar or cheater pipe...
You know after 2-3 trips to the yard trying different techniques the amount of time and $$$ invested in doing this, you could come close to buying a new or used bumper off ebay
Also have you checked your local Craigslist? If somebody like me lives anywhere near you I would sell a whole rear bumper with brackets and hardware for like $65 and I take it off for you
 






96eb96 - my brother suggested an angle grinder. has to be a battery operated in this junkyard. also bolt is 7/8 so lots of metal to cut through. others supporting angle grinder idea?

410fortune - though junkyard is 100 miles away, I pass it every time I visit GF who is 240 miles away. Winter hours for junkyard are not convenient cuz closes at 4:00.

Also my experience is almost all of the g2 bumpers have rust in chrome area.

What will it weigh when removed?
 






about 60-70# is my best guess they are not that heavy... I move them all the time! pita

These trucks are getting older, the chrome plating may indeed have some surface rust
You can clean the chrome up pretty good and paint the top plastic piece with good "for plastic" prep and spray paint
You can find painted ones here and there, some Limited's, mountaineers and some sport's if I remember correctly.
These were body color match from the factory, no chrome...which is always nice.
 



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