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1997 v8 runs like garbage

Explodemylifepls

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 27, 2021
Messages
114
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City, State
Kansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 explorer xxl
1997 5.0 has been getting progressively worse or I notice it more. At low rpms (under 1000) step on accel and bog and take off, sometimes backfires. Seems to fall off at high rpm but really trans isn't shifting when it should.

These are the codes I pulled. I disconnect and removed the cps once to pour oil in the oil pump drive. I scanned again multiple times and no cps code, did get the o2 sensor codes. Here's what the scanner will show me. Also have a manifold leak that could throw off the reading. Waiting until I have the money to buy plugs, wires, manifolds, and o2 sensors. Do I need a time to remove the 2nd set of cats?

48B028A6-0BCF-4ED1-8C61-F5B1993C267F.png 2C192F7F-4719-4DA6-82C4-4B76608864A6.png 3435FB58-2C58-4C14-84F7-1BF0EF4FA709.png
 



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I had a bad o2 sensor that would cause bogging / surging / pulsing acceleration (kind of like a trans slipping in and out of gear) ....since you have the codes for those I would of course roll with that and replace them, you could disconnect them at harness points and thus your PCM would run in open loop mode regarding disconnected sensors / pre-sets and hence if symptoms then disappeared that would confirm it's the o2 sensors.
 






You have an oxygen sensor heater circuit code, two of them in fact both on bank two
Bank two is drivers side

I would inspect the wiring and check fuses
If those
Check out and the heater circuit codes persist

The 02 sensor is faulty and needs replaced
After you check fuses and wiring leading to the oxygen sensor I would plan to replace it

Yes faulty 02 sensor(s) will cause your issues
 






I have 4 new o2 sensors, intake and tb gaskets, two Dorman cast iron manifolds (looks like they're gonna need a few hours of porting and the casting marks cleaned up), new set of plugs and wires, front and rear outside main, a set of transmission solenoids, and energy suspension rear stabilizer bar bushings kit.

I have quite the job ahead of me not sure when I'll get to this, gonna try and do rear main when I have the y pipe off but no guarantee there, every time I crawl under its clearly leaked a lot of oil out the back of the motor right onto the cat and o2 sensor, hopefully it's the main and not trans leaking.

I did one port on the drivers manifold today, the 3rd one back which is the shared port. These manifolds suck, I could never put them on without doing this port work first. I managed to open it up a lot though, gonna do them all like this and open the outlet.
43BF0BF5-27E1-4424-A184-74F49F08606D.jpeg
E22EB42A-46C9-476D-8F78-8E166D3D050E.jpeg
 






Start with those O2 sensors, that poor running is the major issue there. The leaking main seals will be the very hardest, you have to pull the engine or trans do get at those two at the back of the engine.

The exhaust manifolds are horrendous, so bad I wouldn't waste any effort on those. Go through all of the tune up items fist and get it running well again. Then worry about the leaking, which can take a long time depending on how many and how bad they are.
 






The Dorman castings do need some cleaning and de burring that is for sure but they are a far better alternative to the crappy welded 96-97.5 manifolds
I am glad Dorman decided to make these for sure. Compared to the stock cast parts 98-01 they are not bad. Some time with a dremmel will go a long way

Rear main seal leak could also be valve covers good idea to have a long look at the back of the engine

The rear main seal leaks all over the cat converter shield the heat from them at cat will cook the rms and the converter
I hate that cat converter
I have made a simple metal shield before to get the oil to drip off to the sides instead of directly into the hot cat
 






Well I got the y pipe and pass. manifold off yesterday. Unfortunately I forgot to pull a trans cooler line first and run all the fluid into a bucket so I'll have to make a mess and drain it out the pan.

I need to drain it because I have a rear main to do and if you pull the dipstick tube with engine off and trans full of fluid it will run out the hole because the fluid level sits above the dipstick tube hole with the engine off. And the dipstick tube needs removed to slide the trans back. I also have the solenoids to take care of.

Now that everything is out of the way doing the rear main shouldn't be too hard. Gonna try and get the drivers manifold off before I disconnect the driveshaft and start pulling the trans. Not gonna completely remove it, it just needs to slide back about a foot to get the flex plate off.

I also forgot to mention the manifold was nearly broke in half, under the insulation by the egr connection. I split it in two easily.
 






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I go the trans out and new rear main in. Scratched the crank it's probably going to leak now, if it didn't before. Looks like it could've been coming from the pan.

Gonna button the trans back up today and hopefully get the drivers side manifold off. Got the tb off not much room to work but hopefully can have the intake off today then start going all back together. I've only broke a couple vacuum lines so far on the whole deal. 477F5CEC-963B-4B5A-94BE-A882FC985ACF.jpeg
 






If you’d scratched the crank under the seal you may consider a speedy seal? Before you put it all back together

The rule of thumb is if the Knick or scratch catches your fingernail you may need to use the speedy seal dealio
 






Idk how deep they were as I could never get a finger nail in there. I oiled a piece of emery cloth and wrapped it around the snout and polished it up a bit, so I don't think there's anything left to tear the seal I can't imagine it not leaking though. Speedy seal next time if I ever pull the trans again. I bolted it back up to the engine last night and while nothings really connected Im feeling extremely tired and sore after 15+ labor hours working on this thing, my shoulders don't like me right now.
 






Believe me when I tell you I get it ;)

I have stabbed many many 4r70w and it used to beat me up each time! Now I have some tools to help but it can still be a beat down

Hang in there! Keep up the good work, these trucks are very rewarding
 






Some useful tools for pulling the 4r70w.

1.) 16mm swivel head ratcheting wrench
2.) 13, 14, 15mm swivel head ratcheting wrenches
3.) headlamp (a must)
4.) large quantity of 1/2" and 3/8" impact extensions
5.) good powerful impact
6.) jackstands that get your wheels a good 12" off the ground
 






I'm about to take this piece of **** to the dump, go to install the exhaust and o2 sensors and I can't get the damned blue plug 02 sensor on top of the trans plugged in. Tried 2 sensors neither will go in. The green ones plugged in fine, all my new sensors have black plugs and no clocking lugs, but WILL NOT plug in, no amount of moving the pins makes any difference, and I can't see the damn thing at all. The old sensor unplugged just fine 😡😡😡
 






It's very hard to reach the top O2 connections. I've R&R'd the O2 sensors that way three times, but it's much easier if you remove the console and go through the opening above the trans. It takes some effort to get the console out, but if you can't reach the O2 connections well enough from below with one hand, there is another way.
 






It's very hard to reach the top O2 connections. I've R&R'd the O2 sensors that way three times, but it's much easier if you remove the console and go through the opening above the trans. It takes some effort to get the console out, but if you can't reach the O2 connections well enough from below with one hand, there is another way.

this helped to remove my carpeting, not for the o2s but i know you can access them from under the big plate!
 






I have my console out constantly in my mail trucks, so doing the O2 sensors took me less than 15 minutes the last time. I cut the carpet front to back down the middle, and that cover you can have off in a couple of minutes. The O2 connections are right on top below the cover.
 






Just like these guys said

You can also remove the trans mount and lower the trans/t case a bit giving you more access

It takes about 15 minutes to pull the seats and center console giving you the ability to pull the carpet back and remove the floor plate. Now 3ea 02 sensor connections are right there.
Some of us also will cut are carpet right down the middle so in the future the center console comes out you have access to floor plate. The console will cover the new carpet cut
 






Yeah I seen that. But it turns out it's not the pins being misaligned, after I broke the connector free from where it was taped to the harness to look inside I finally figured out where the issue was. Looks like I'm splicing the old male end onto the new sensor..

A83142A4-E575-4B3E-A52A-5AFF38D59837.jpeg
 






Hard to see what’s going on? Both males? Lol wtf male and male don’t plug together well

Looks like somebody pinned a female connector w male pins, is that even possible?
Where did this 02 sensor come from
I try to keep track of all the fubar aftermarket junk we are delivered over the counter these days
 



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Look closer, the plastic on the round part is thicker on one than the other. Those are both the old male ends, one of the connections is an odd one out.
 






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