1998 5.0 problem. Need ideas. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1998 5.0 problem. Need ideas.

bbrjch

Member
Joined
January 22, 2019
Messages
27
Reaction score
3
City, State
Buda, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer Limited 5.0
Hey yall,

I searched the forum and have read many different threads but wanted to let you know what I have and what we have tried with a Start and no idle and die situation.

Vehicle :

1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0
Mileage: 191,000

Recently purchased and drove from San Antonio to Austin Texas with no issues. Drove for several days and then all of a sudden was driving and RPM's dropped low and engine started to putter and then died. Was able to restart and run for a short amount of time and it continued to die. Had friends push car back to residence.

Here is what was done to vehicle prior to purchase:

Fuel Pump (from Oreilly's) - Had tank dropped and drained and new pump installed
New Battery (crappy - plan on replacing)
New Alternator
Driver's side front axel
Oil Change
Blend Door actuator

Parts I have replaced:

New Mass Air Flow sensor
New Throttle position sensor
New Idle Air Control Valve
K&N air filter
(cleaned out all of above)

We checked power to the coil packs (both receiving power)

Checked the Fuses / Relays in the fuse box under hood. We can hear the fuel pump working when you turn the key and it continues to work once vehicle is started but then few stops getting pushed and the engine starves and dies.

One thing I was also thinking about replacing is the Crankshaft position sensor (part is ordered).

****I am wondering if the ECU / PCM took a crap**** THOUGHTS? Anything else I have overlooked??
 



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I also remembered that we disconnected the air box and shot starting fluid directly into intake and it would run fine that way. I had a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank to and replaced the fuel filter.
 






If it's running fine on starting fluid I think you can rule out the crank position sensor. Sounds like you have a fuel problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure?
 






What DTCs are present?
 






Look inside your camshaft synchronizer. If you are familiar with old smallblock Ford engines is is where the distributor would plug in to the block. IIRC there are two 7mm fasteners that hold the electronic part on to the rest of it. open it up and it should look like this on the inside.
camsync7.JPG

If it doesn't then you need a new one.Also while you have it open have a buddy turn the engine over for you to see if the shaft is turning while the engine is turning. A wife will do in place of a buddy. A DTC P0340 should have been present if you didn't "erase" all of your stored codes when the battery was disconnected.
 






It’s not your camshaft position sensor or synchronizer drive. A 5.0 will start and run perfectly fine (other than a CEL) without one, or with a broken one.

You likely have a bad fuel pump. The cheap ones don’t last. If it runs on starting fluid, it’s almost surely a fuel problem as mentioned above. Check the rail pressure.
 






I don't know much on the 5.0 but did you change the fuel filter when you changed the pump
 






If you just changed the pump and used a cheap one from Oreillys then I would start there
Check fuel pressure at the rail
Only use Bosch or OEM equivalent pump, cheap pumps can last weeks
Also change the fuel filter use Motorcraft
 






If it's running fine on starting fluid I think you can rule out the crank position sensor. Sounds like you have a fuel problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

I ordered a tester of amazon to hook up to the shrader valve and check the pressure. From my research I should be getting about 40-45 I believe on the 98.
 






If you just changed the pump and used a cheap one from Oreillys then I would start there
Check fuel pressure at the rail
Only use Bosch or OEM equivalent pump, cheap pumps can last weeks
Also change the fuel filter use Motorcraft

I did replace it. The guy that I bought truck from stated that he changed the fuel pump with one from Oreillys and had them clean the tank. It sounds like it is working when I turn the key to ON and when I crank I can get vehicle to run crappily for a short period of time.

Once I get the tester in the mail we will see. Unfortunately I bought the fuel filter at Autozone so I might need to get a motorcraft in the future too.
 






If you just changed the pump and used a cheap one from Oreillys then I would start there
Check fuel pressure at the rail
Only use Bosch or OEM equivalent pump, cheap pumps can last weeks
Also change the fuel filter use Motorcraft

If it does determine to be the fuel pump, I will get the Bosch or OEM replacement. I will probably buy a whole new tank too so I can be 100 % sure no more gunk gets in there. I need to make this as reliable as possible.....for 191,000 miles lol
 






You do not need another tank, the fuel pump has a strainer on it to keep debris from entering the pump and then whatever gets past that will be caught by the fuel filter.
It is a good idea to replace the pump, strainer and filter at the same time, even if they were just done recently
Let us know what you find! It SOUNDS like a fuel pressure issue but the gauge will tell the tale
You should have about 34-42 psi at the fuel rail with the truck running

Let us know what you find out!
Also it was asked if your check engine light is on?
 






I don't know much on the 5.0 but did you change the fuel filter when you changed the pump

Yes, the previous owner said this was done. I just sent him an email to see how long ago the pump was replaced and if he had any warranty from Oreilly on it....
 






Fuel level in tank?
Is it parked on a level surface or parked facing downhill?

Hoping the previous fuel pump replacement bent the fuel level sender and we're just out of gas.
 






Fuel level in tank?
Is it parked on a level surface or parked facing downhill?

Hoping the previous fuel pump replacement bent the fuel level sender and we're just out of gas.
It is parked on a slight incline but I doubt it is the fuel level.
 






You do not need another tank, the fuel pump has a strainer on it to keep debris from entering the pump and then whatever gets past that will be caught by the fuel filter.
It is a good idea to replace the pump, strainer and filter at the same time, even if they were just done recently
Let us know what you find! It SOUNDS like a fuel pressure issue but the gauge will tell the tale
You should have about 34-42 psi at the fuel rail with the truck running

Let us know what you find out!
Also it was asked if your check engine light is on?

No check engine light and just checked the fuel pressure when I connect the pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Pressure was like 10-15 Psi. I turned the key off and then back on and it went to about 20. Turned off again and back on and about 30. What does that mean?

My neighbor (old school Mechanic in his mid 70's) and I are going to work on it more Mon, Tues and Wed coming up. I believe we discussed trying to run power directly to the pump from where the inertia switch is to see if we can keep the car running with power to the pump.

If it does need a pump I am looking at replacing with either a Motorcraft unit or Bosch (the whole kits approximately $300 each or less...).
 






I don't know much on the 5.0 but did you change the fuel filter when you changed the pump

Yes, fuel filter was changed with the pump (but that was over a year ago). I change the fuel filter again two weeks ago week.
 






@bbrjch

I see you have checked and replaced a lot of stuff in the fuel injection system.

BUT - I haven't read anything about your fuel injection pressure regulator.

Have you pulled the vacuum line from the fuel pump pressure regulator, to see if you have fuel leaking out from the vacuum port?

If there is fuel coming out of it (or in the vacuum line), there's your problem.

PR162Tphoto%20primary__ra_p.jpg
 






No check engine light and just checked the fuel pressure when I connect the pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Pressure was like 10-15 Psi. I turned the key off and then back on and it went to about 20. Turned off again and back on and about 30. What does that mean?

My neighbor (old school Mechanic in his mid 70's) and I are going to work on it more Mon, Tues and Wed coming up. I believe we discussed trying to run power directly to the pump from where the inertia switch is to see if we can keep the car running with power to the pump.

If it does need a pump I am looking at replacing with either a Motorcraft unit or Bosch (the whole kits approximately $300 each or less...).

That's a weak pump or clogged filter, sock etc. If the gas in the tank was old before, for long enough, it could have damaged the tank inner surfaces enough, to continuously corrode the tank and keep filling the pump strainer pump, and the fuel filter. Having mentioned the tank being cleaned out, makes me wonder about that.

I'd say buy another pump, the Bosch pump is still $45 shipped from eBay, and a new filter and strainer. NEW Bosch Electric Fuel Pump Kit 69128 Ford F150 E150 Contour Explorer 1988-2004 | eBay

I'd drop the tank to replace those, and carefully inspect the tank inside. When the fuel filter is removed, don't let the gas pour out until you can clearly see it come out of the back/inlet side of the filter.

You want to know how the current gas is inside the filter. Being a relatively new filter, as well as the pump, the gas should look virtually clean coming from the filter, as well as the gas in the tank. You don't want to see any material inside the pump strainer, that will tell the tale of the tank's condition. If the gas in the tank is clean(strainer too), then most likely the fuel pump is all it needs.

One other thing, the K&N air filter. Those are a bad idea due to the oil used on them, too much oil fouls the MAF sensor. Some people use the right amount and it doesn't hurt anything, but sometimes too much oil is used. It's far easier to just toss those oiled filters, and buy a high quality dry filter. Almost all contamination in the engine oil, comes through the air filter. So a cheap air filter is a bad idea, I prefer an Amsoil filter which is now obsolete. But there are other good brands, they just have to be replaced more often.

Good luck there, and say high to my family if you see them in Buda, the Cunningham's. My uncle and his family live there, and his kids etc, around Texas.
 



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When you change the fuel filter and/or look in the tank if you see anything like the pics below you should just change the tank because you will not ever get the rust to stop forming inside the tank...I had the tank boiled out and coated with POR-15, then I even bought a "good used" tank...The wonderful stuff coming out of the filter is rust...I could not go more than 300-500 miles without changing the fuel filter due to rust.... and the inside of the tank looked like the last pic...And the rust in the tank will kill your fuel pump even a Bosch/Motorcraft since the stuff in the filter goes through the pump first...

P2190020.jpg


P2190022.jpg


P3270066.jpg
 






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