1998 EXP EB Edition 4.6 Won't Start | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

1998 EXP EB Edition 4.6 Won't Start

Mike789

Member
Joined
June 4, 2017
Messages
37
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
Hello again, been a while...
The Exp has been working ok until I didn't run it for 6+ months. Cranks but won't run. Seems like I'm not hearing the fuel pump anymore. The THEFT light is blinking which seems to mean the fuel relay is not closed, ie, no fuel.
Can I unplug a/the THEFT relay ?
Will that allow the fuel pump to work ?
Or should I jump the fuel pump relay ?
Other suggestions ?
FYI in the last 10 years it has/had several electrical bugs, including windows don't go up/dn, w/w don't work sometimes, etc.
Does have a new alt recently...batt is fine.
TIA
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




Mbrooks420

High Voltage.
Elite Explorer
Joined
February 2, 2002
Messages
12,061
Reaction score
2,515
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Mountaineer AWD
If the theft light blinks fast while cranking you have a PATS key issue. There is no relay to pull, or bypass. You need to fix the PATS system.

Do you have more than one key? If so try the other.
 
<



Mike789

Member
Joined
June 4, 2017
Messages
37
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
If the theft light blinks fast while cranking you have a PATS key issue. There is no relay to pull, or bypass. You need to fix the PATS system.

Do you have more than one key? If so try the other.
Could I still bypass the fuel pump relay if the theft lite is on ? It's at my friend's house so I can't check it easily. One key also. No $ to spend on it as it way too many electrical issues, like windows. It also might be stuck in 4WD which is not keeping it from rolling. It's not a daily driver.
 
<



Mbrooks420

High Voltage.
Elite Explorer
Joined
February 2, 2002
Messages
12,061
Reaction score
2,515
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Mountaineer AWD
No. Like I said the first time, There is nothing to bypass. You cannot simply jumper the PATS out. The PATS will need to be fixed (or removed with a $$$ fine) or you will never start the car again.
 
<



J_C

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 30, 2009
Messages
3,957
Reaction score
759
City, State
Florence, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT 4WD 4.0L SOHC
I'm a bit confused, you have a '98 with a 4.6L in it? I didn't think they came that way in '98, anywhere. If so, hard to say what the PATs system is capable of (though the next generation had starter interrupt not fuel pump cutoff), but for a '98 4.0 or 5.0, PATS only disables the injectors, not the fuel pump, though I seem to vaguely recall that someone had a European explorer that had a fuel pump cutoff circuit too, and I "thought" it was a 2nd gen Explorer but I could be wrong. I've never heard of a US market 2nd gen Explorer with fuel pump cutoff as a PATS2 function.

If it has a fuel pump cutoff there is going to be an additional module in series with the pump, near the pump, that you can find by following the wires from the pump, and completely wiring it out by jumpering around that, taking the power lead straight to the pump from where it inputs to the deactivation module.

To clarify, the theft light should blink slowly with vehicle just sitting, and may come on solid with the rest of the gauge lights when you turn the key as the bulb check for them, but then does it start to blink rapidly trying to start it? If rapid blink, that means PATS is preventing starting and as Mbrooks mentioned, there's no jumpering around that as the PCM is not energizing the fuel injectors, and you can't just jumper power to them since they have to have synchronized (timed per cylinder) on/off activation from the PCM.

If the fuel pump is also not working (easy to tell, is there pressure on the fuel rail?), then you may have two separate faults to fix, or if the theft light is blinking slow instead of fast, only a fuel pump /fuel delivery issue whether pump or wiring or relay, etc.

IMO, something like windows not working isn't really a reason not to put any money into it to fix something else, but of course it depends on how much you want to DIY. Windows are often a wiring problem and just take the time to dig into the wires and solder bad ones at the fault, almost a free repair to DIY.

It also might be stuck in 4WD which is not keeping it from rolling.

Can you elaborate? If it is the 4.0L with 4WD rather than 5.0L with AWD, the 4WD function depends on an electromagnetic clutch so if that is somehow seized in an activated position, you probably need a new or rebuilt transfer case (probably chewed up debris inside to cause that). Otherwise, what is mechanical is 4WD High vs Low. If it is stuck in low you can take the shift solenoid motor off the transfer case, manually move the transfer case back to high, manually move the shift motor to high, then put it back on, making sure the dash knob is set to high or auto. Regardless that wouldn't keep it from starting.
 
<



Top