1998 Explorer 5.0 “Restoration2021” project

[SuperGordo]

Soon we will service the trans an do a Jmod. As well as replacing hte broken rack and pinion I posted about a couple weeks ago.

 

[410Fortune]

Oh boy if you remove your accumulator springs get ready for some harsh shifts!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh boy if you remove your accumulator springs get ready for some harsh shifts!!

Yeah don't just remove them. There are two specific accumulator springs that are recommended for the J'Mod, they were $22(1-2) and $10(2-3) last time I looked. I don't find them on eBay, but BCA still shows them;

AODE, 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75W, 4R75E 1-2 ACCUMULATOR SPRING KIT

AODE, 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75W, 4R75E 1-2 ACCUMULATOR SPRING KIT

www.bcawebstore.com

AODE, 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75W, 4R75E 2-3 ACCUMULATOR SPRING

AODE, 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75W, 4R75E 2-3 ACCUMULATOR SPRING

www.bcawebstore.com

 

[410Fortune]

Everytime somebody asks me to remove the 1-2 accumulator spring “for firm shifts” we end up putting one back in there these are not mustangs and I do not like the 1-2 shift to be that harsh and I do mean harsh
A softer spring sure, but no spring at all no way Jose

Valve body mods are a good idea however just be careful how “extreme” you go

 

[SuperGordo]

Oh boy if you remove your accumulator springs get ready for some harsh shifts!!

I've done dozens of Jmods. Removing the 2-3 spring isn't harsh. I will use the updated springs for the 1-2. I won't remove any springs there.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, that's where I got stopped when I was planning my VB work on my black truck years ago. I dug up the various J'Mod threads and none of them had hole size suggestions for a truck. I've always been wary about going too harsh with shifts, and the holes are very hard to make smaller if you go too big. I was aiming to stay on the smaller hole sizes and see how that shifted. I actually expected someone else to give it a go and post their results.

 

[SuperGordo]

Everytime somebody asks me to remove the 1-2 accumulator spring “for firm shifts” we end up putting one back in there these are not mustangs and I do not like the 1-2 shift to be that harsh and I do mean harsh
A softer spring sure, but no spring at all no way Jose

Valve body mods are a good idea however just be careful how “extreme” you go

THe EX will get the mildest setting. Just enough to take make the shifts tidy. That's all. no crazy ideas here.

 

[SuperGordo]

Yes, that's where I got stopped when I was planning my VB work on my black truck years ago. I dug up the various J'Mod threads and none of them had hole size suggestions for a truck. I've always been wary about going to harsh with shifts, and the holes are very hard to make smaller if you go too big. I was aiming to stay on the smaller hole sizes and see how that shifted. I actually expected someone else to give it a go and post their results.

The thing about the Jmod is that it isn't like a shift kit where it breaks your back all the time. The lag time between the shifts is reduced. if you are just driving around it's almost unnoticable. If you put your foot into it, then the shifts match you. If you read the entire 24 page article written by Jerry Wroblewski. He explains the hole sizes and how to match for power output. it really is not an offensive mod.

 

[SuperGordo]

I'll likely video the process when I do it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The thing about the Jmod is that it isn't like a shift kit where it breaks your back all the time. The lag time between the shifts is reduced. if you are just driving around it's almost unnoticable. If you put your foot into it, then the shifts match you. If you read the entire 24 page article written by Jerry Wroblewski. He explains the hole sizes and how to match for power output. it really is not an offensive mod.

Very good, so the hole sizes are not an issue for a truck VB, as in the past some VB or shift kits did weird things in trucks?

 

[SuperGordo]

Very good, so the hole sizes are not an issue for a truck VB, as in the past some VB or shift kits did weird things in trucks?

No, I've done a bunch of f150s. There is a list of hole sizes, coorelated to power. From stock to 600hp. If you aren't aware Jerry W was a Ford power train engineer. He was one of the deisgners of the 4r70w. He wrote a long article for TCCOA.com on how to bulletproof the 4r70w. He goes in depth explaining what you are drilling and why. I know there are many videos on Youtube, but people don't really explain the real deal. So doing the mild jmod is nice but not offensive. AND you don't acutally have to modify the valve body. Just drill the separator plate. So if you don't like it you can replace the separator plate and go back to stock.

 

[CDW6212R]

I found most of what I have from the old SCCA forum, the Thunderbird and Mark VIII site. That was a great source of information, I think it's gone now from what I've seen.

Thanks, I might get to my last 98 soon after I retire, to go through it and make it decent to sell.

 

[SuperGordo]

The whole article is posted on TCCOA if you ever want to read it.

 

[SuperGordo]

I just installed those exact tires Are yours noisy little road noise
What psi are you running
It says on the side where they were made
Mine were made in Canada

Also I suggest trying these shocks for the back
They will fix the rear sag and they feel great to
Amazon product ASIN B000C53RXK
Read the reviews .

The tires are made in Canada. Discount tire installed them, so I'll guess 32-34psi. My daughter just came by but I didn't have a pressure guage handy. I asked her about road noise. And I don't think she knows what I mean. I'll have to drive it myself later on.

 

[SuperGordo]

Question for the group. Anyone had their oil pressure gauge freak out? The other day my daughter came over and pointed out that the oil pressure guage was wobbling back and forth from high to low. The needle was moving fast. Then I turned off the car and the needle went backwards and rested on the other side of the little pin at the bottom of the guage. And that is where it has been all week. Engine still sounds normal. Oil is at correct level. I installed a new oil pump when I replaced the oil pan gasket. So Initially I don't think it'sa bad pump. This truck is about 280K on the odometer.
Anyone else seen a funky stock guage?

 

[DintDobbs]

@SuperGordo Probably just a weak connection. Might have rattled loose over the decades. I had some issues on my '99 with that, the brake warning light, speedometer, and some miscellaneous bulb outages on the instrument cluster a year or two ago. Took the dash apart, replaced burned out bulbs, plugged it back in, and never had a hint of an issue since.

 

[SuperGordo]

@SuperGordo Probably just a weak connection. Might have rattled loose over the decades. I had some issues on my '99 with that, the brake warning light, speedometer, and some miscellaneous bulb outages on the instrument cluster a year or two ago. Took the dash apart, replaced burned out bulbs, plugged it back in, and never had a hint of an issue since.

Thanks. I'm probably going to get a spare cluster on my next pic a part trip. When I got this EX running I did pull the cluster and change all the bulbs. But I'm going to take another look. Need to be smart and safe. Have to keep it running.

 

[410Fortune]

I have had oil pressure gauges go whacko
they do wear out
so does the sensor
Best bet is to put mechanical oil pressure gauge on it for a bit = peace of mind

 

[C420sailor]

Yeah I had a sensor go on me.

I’ve had them jump around, and it was just a dirty connection at the sensor.

 

[SuperGordo]

Thanks everyone! Gonna check it all out soon.