1998 Explorer 5.0 V8 AWD Owner Needs Help Please!!!

[shane0613]

Okay, I was driving home from work tonight. After driving for 20 minutes with no problems. I was stopped at a stoplight, when it turned green I had to give it the gas to get out of the way of a cop. I didn't stomp on it, just gave it a good bit of gas. Well the truck started to go, then it hiccuped and didn't have the giddy up it usually does. Well I drove about a mile and pulled into the gas station. After parking the engine was steaming, and of course the radiator fluid was leaking, but the radiator tank (not inside the radiator) was full, but I knew something was still wrong. There wasn't much fluid under the truck, but it was all over the top of the engine. I had no option but to drive it home.

On the way home it sputtered when accelerating from a stop. When I got it up to 55 it ran fine. When I parked it at home, it was steaming like a ***** and the radiator excess tank was empty. Understandable. My engine light always stays on, truck has 230K, heater core is bypassed b/c it did something similar before and bypassing the heater core has fixed it for the last year. I have found a busted hose, but to me it felt like the truck was running with a bad cylinder or even like the tranny was slipping. All the fluids are fine except for the radiator fluid. The overheating light never came on. While looking for the culprit, I noticed a spark plug wire that was attached to nothing, and a spark plug wire that obviously is different run to where that spark plug should be. The wire says #3. Any thoughts on if this sounds like just a busted hose? What hose is it? What size hose do I need to replace it? I already have some heater hose but it looks bigger than a heater hose.

Here's the pics. My photoshop skills aren't the best and its almost 1am. Any help would be much appreciated. If you can't see well enough, the first 2 pics are of the hose that has a small split in it.

If the images are too small try clicking these links to see them bigger.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51908177@N06/5125257610/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/51908177@N06/5125257776/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/51908177@N06/5124651759/

 

[swetrid]

The hose is the called the water pump bypass hose. They go bad on every 5.0L. Looks like somebody had a problem with that wire and just ranother wire instead of putting it back in the proper looms.

 

[shane0613]

I got the hose off. Looks like it might be a ***** to get the new one back on. It would be easier if I could get that big radiator hose off, but it isn't budging and with my finances right now, I can't afford to break anything pulling the hell out of it. Any tips on getting the hose to slide on easily. I saw some buildup around the lip/rim of the connectors the hose fits on and I got it off as best I could with a wire brush. I need a wire brush about the size of a toothbrush. Maybe I'll check and see if they have one. Would WD-40 help slide the hose back on, or would that get oil in the water pump?

 

[JCat]

Try liquid soap.

 

[OneLever]

The large hose running from the right side of the radiator, as viewed from the driver's seat, to the thermostat housing just above your busted hose is the Upper radiator hose. Move the spring clamps that hold it in place back with some vise grips. Then cut it in half near the thermostat and pull off the rest with pliers. Some bits of rubber will fall into the thermostat housing, but you can easily pick them up with a paper towel. Push the paper towel into the thermostat, and when it gets wet from the coolant the bits will stick to it. A replacement Upper radiator hose will cost about $15.

A replacement Bypass hose will cost about $5. It may help to loosen the drive belt by removing it from just the alternator pulley. This will give your hands more room to work. Use the screw type hose clamps to replace the spring type. You will need small ones for the Bypass hose and large ones for the Upper radiator hose.

If you use a wire brush be careful not to get any metal shavings in any of the openings. A small piece of sandpaper might work better. If you have it I would spray a little silicone lubricant spray onto a paper towel and wipe that on the mating surfaces of the hoses. That will make them easier to put on, but any small amount of lube on the exterior surfaces should be fine for that purpose.

Here are a few pictures from when I did this. Links provided to higher resolution images:

Picture 1 link

Picture 2 link

Picture 3 link

Picture 4 link

 

[shane0613]

I got the part from advanced auto for $7.50. It was a bit of a pain putting it in b/c I couldn't get the top radiator hose off and I don't know how to loosen the belt and put it back on correctly. I was able to get it on after making a few mistakes, but I think my mistakes are due to the hose being a little too long. When I match it up to the one that was on there it is about the same length, but the one that was on is all bent so it is hard to straighten out.

I put the top/bigger end on first and it was impossible to get the smaller bottom one on, so I took it off and got it on the other way. The hose has a bend in it that if it were much worse fluid wouldn't pass correctly. I drove it about 2 miles and it runs fine now, when I parked it a little smoke came from underneath but it is probably just excess that didn't burn off last night.

The hose is really close to the belt also. Should I have cut a little bit off, the part was a stock part for my truck so you would think it were the right length. I also couldn't get the smaller end to fit perfectly snug like I could with the bigger end. Here's some pics.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51908177@N06/5125858293/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51908177@N06/5125858299/

 

[shane0613]

My dad came out and looked at it, and said I needed to cut the belt. So we did and it slid on easy. I got the top radiator hose off this time which helped alot. It looks like that is what caused the problem, the belt rubbed the hose and caused it to bust. We cut enough off there is no possible way it will touch the belt now. And both sides of the hose fit really snug now.

If it blows out, I'm sure I will post again.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

[OneLever]

Good to know you fixed it! Check the condition of the other hoses to make sure they're not about to blow too. The drive belt is loosened via the tensioner pulley on the right side of the engine (all orientations given as if sitting in the driver's seat looking forward). There should be a diagram at the front of the engine bay showing where it is as well.

It is a 15MM bolt on mine I think, and is most easily reached after removing the Air cleaner hose and Upper radiator hose. Then you can reach your arm down the right side and turn it.

 

[WhiteNoiz]

Good Morning everyone!

This is my first post to this forum, I look forward to interacting with the community here.

I picked up this 97 mountaineer with the 5.0 V8 in it this summer. It has 120000 miles on it. Radiator rotted out so I am in the process of giving a good run through, replacing the radiator, hoses, thermostat, tensioner, and belt. I thought the fan clutch removal would be the difficult part. Turns out, the bypass hose is basically impossible to put back on. I had to cut the old hard crusty hose off. The new hose wont come close to going on. I read through the responses above. The 4.0 was addressed, and it looks like a solution was to cut the thermostat housing inlet 3/8 of an inch and also cut down the hose. On the 5.0, its not the thermostat housing that would need to be cut. I am hesistant to cut pieces attached to the block etc in fear of making the situation worse.

Like the original poster, am I missing something here??? Ive got this thing all torn down in my garage and I'm stuck!

Any insight would be greatly appreciated! At this point I feel like I need to call a mobile mechanic, or have it towed. Trying to save money with a newborn in the house.

Thank you!!

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Should not require any cutting. Take the belts off first. As noted earlier, you need some type of lubricant on the hose ends. Push on the bottom side first with the open top facing towards you. Once seated, twist around to face correct direction and work on to the top.

 

[WhiteNoiz]

I'll give that a shot. I had the method in my mind the way that you described, but I couldnt even get the bottom attached. I will lube her up and give it another go after work. I have a friend coming to help as well, maybe with the two of us...

Had someone else mention putting the hose ends on both fittings, on the bottom, and working it over the the tops at the same time... they had cut the hose...

I'll keep you posted, thanks for the help!