1998 Explorer XLT: ABS ISSUE / DROVE W/ PARKING BRAKE

[OutlawVixen22]

Ok, here's the deal...

I drove my 1998 Ford Explorer about 20 miles, not knowing the E-brake was on, when the ABS light came on the dash, the car became very sluggish, not going over 35mph, and puttering, almost like it was out of gas and about to die. After about 1 more mile, I made it home where it completely died and I couldn't get it started again (it seemed like the battery was dead).
The next day it started right up, I test drove it, and after a couple miles, it kinda puttered again, then died, and I couldn't get it started until I tried jumping it a few times and after about a million key turns (this took about two hours).
I was able to drive back home (a couple miles), but it didn't go over 20mph and felt like it was going to die, which it finally did again.
I haven't been able to get it started since.

If anyone can help at all with this, I'd greatly appreciate it! If I can answer any questions, or provide more info please let me know.

Thank you!!

 

[RickOTR]

Try disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes then reconnect the battery and let it idle till it returns to normal. Then try and take it for a drive and see what happens from there. Is the check engine light on and are there any codes stored.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I don’t see why the brake would have any effect on runability. Sounds like an intermittent fuel pump issue to me.

 

[MrQ]

Ditto, borrow a fuel pressure tester and check your pressure on the rail, needs to be around 35 psi at idle and over 40 at WOT.

 

[OutlawVixen22]

Try disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes then reconnect the battery and let it idle till it returns to normal. Then try and take it for a drive and see what happens from there. Is the check engine light on and are there any codes stored.

The check engine light is on. I'll check the codes today.

 

[OutlawVixen22]

The check engine light is on. I'll check the codes today.

Thank you

 

[OutlawVixen22]

I don’t see why the brake would have any effect on runability. Sounds like an intermittent fuel pump issue to me.

Thank you. It has had issues with the fuel pump a couple of times before.

 

[OutlawVixen22]

Ditto, borrow a fuel pressure tester and check your pressure on the rail, needs to be around 35 psi at idle and over 40 at WOT.

Thank you! I'll try it today.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Thank you. It has had issues with the fuel pump a couple of times before.

Was it replaced?

 

[OutlawVixen22]

Was it replaced?

Yes, in the past five years, it's had to be replaced twice...

 

[Mbrooks420]

Unfortunately, the cheap pumps usually only last a year or two. I’d buy a Motorcraft/Bosch unit this time (if it’s the problem) or I’d cut an access panel so the tank doesn’t need dropped again.

 

[J_C]

I suspect the E-brake was just coincidence, that your ABS light came on because of low system voltage, and this also causing too many misfires from weak spark, and/or low fuel pump delivery. Low voltage can make many subsystems go haywire.

Probably an alternator failure, or battery, or both (or badly corroded battery terminals are worth checking too). If it is cranking over strong, without having to charge the battery or jump it, them I'm wrong. A multimeter would come in handy, should be sitting near 12.6V charged and 14.4V engine running, though if you've put a lot of load on the battery trying to start it, it may take a little while to get back to the normal voltage.

 

[OutlawVixen22]

Yes, in the past five years, it's had to be replaced twice...

Or

I suspect the E-brake was just coincidence, that your ABS light came on because of low system voltage, and this also causing too many misfires to go faster.

Probably an alternator failure, or battery, or both. If it is cranking over strong, without having to charge the battery, them I'm wrong.

I thought the e brake was just a coincidence as well. Thank you!

 

[OutlawVixen22]

Unfortunately, the cheap pumps usually only last a year or two. I’d buy a Motorcraft/Bosch unit this time (if it’s the problem) or I’d cut an access panel so the tank doesn’t need dropped again.

Awesome, I will keep that in mind. Thank you!

 

[MrQ]

I personally don't recommend the access panel, but it's a personal preference. One of the key things that takes these pumps out is a) sitting with low fuel in the tank (ethanol collects water and corrodes the pump) and b) fuel filter. Always change your fuel filter when you change your pump. I forgot to do that one time and I found myself stranded on the side of the road a year after I replaced the pump.

 

[RickOTR]

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Have you removed the rotors and looked at the parking brake shoes? Checked the fuel pressure? Economy fuel pumps should last more than a few years. I made an access panel for mine and never had a problem.

 

[OutlawVixen22]

I personally don't recommend the access panel, but it's a personal preference. One of the key things that takes these pumps out is a) sitting with low fuel in the tank (ethanol collects water and corrodes the pump) and b) fuel filter. Always change your fuel filter when you change your pump. I forgot to do that one time and I found myself stranded on the side of the road a year after I replaced the pump.

Yeah, the first time I replaced the fuel pump was because it had been sitting for years (this is my mom's 'baby,' if you can believe that) before I drove it. my boyfriend at the time taught me how to do it and we went to a U Pull It for almost everything, so it probably wasn't the best job done but it ran.
A year and a half later it was replaced along with the fuel filter, all brand new but I was told the cheap pump wouldn't last more than a couple years.

Anyway, so basically you guys are all saying I should start with the fuel pump before I try anything else? Also, I can look this up but can I rent a fuel pressure tester at like, AutoZone?

 

[J_C]

Yes, before doing anything more about the fuel pump, get the loaner fuel pressure gauge from Autozone or Advance Auto. When you test it, be sure your battery has over 12V or you may not get a high enough pressure from that.

 

[RickOTR]

Before throwing money at it check the inertia switch under the passenger dash area. Should be a red button on top of it. Make sure it's pushed all the way down. There should be a schrader valve on the fuel rail. Put a rag over it and then with a small screw drive push in on the needle valve. If good, fuel should flow out of it , if not, fuel is the problem. Also, put your ear by the fuel tank and listen to see iof the fuel pump makes a noise.

 

[J_C]

^ Typically if that inertia switch tripped, it wouldn't start or run at all due to no fuel pump power, until reset while this seems to be a hard to start or run condition so I doubt it is tripped. The fuel pump has to be working *sometimes* even if it ends up being the problem.

Then again, it is a switch, with contacts that could oxidize over 22 years. It could be a problem at this age but it seems less likely than the usual wear suspects.