1998 Ford Explorer 5.0 AWD Fuel Issues

[ProcrastiNate]

Lets date this all the way back to lets say Dec 2014. (Todays date is 10-10-2015). Drove the 1998 Ford Explorer 5.0L AWD for roughly an hour then shut it off at a gas station. When we went to leave gas station vehicle wouldn't start. Engine would crank fine, and turn over but felt more like it was running on 4 cyl, low idle, shakey, spit, sputter, die. After about 45 mins, starts up fine no problem. (This was the beginning of the nightmare). This cycle repeats itself for a few days, where if you drive it for 30mins+ and turn it off, it would not start back up for roughly 45 mins.

We then decided it would be best to change spark plugs, wires, and battery. 1 week later, vehicle dies and refuses to start. We tow it to the house and replace fuel filter. Walahh!!! it runs fine for the most part of the winter. (live in Montana, the winters here get cold).

Here comes spring/summer times. Issue starts back up where it left off with 1 minor difference. Drive vehicle for 30mins+ and turn it off. Start back up moments to a few minutes later and drive as little as a couple mins. If we turn it off it won't start again for 45mins. Will still crank, turn over, spit, sputter, die.

Replaced EEC relay, and the incident only happens 1 more time then runs fine for probably next 4 months with not so much as even a hiccup.

4 weeks ago same problem starts again. This time the problem only happens a few times. Once one day, and the next day 2 times. We drive it to AutoZone to get codes pulled. Popped the hood and noticed the EGR tube is completely sheered in half (old age, and heat, vibration, etc...) Go into AutoZone and buy EGR tube and EGR valve gasket, and Purchased a Fuel Pump. EGR tube turned out to be a livid pain to get off so we decided to hold off on replacing it till we get fuel pump replaced. Replace the fuel pump and Walahh!!! Vehicle starts right up without a hiccup. Runs great for a couple weeks.

Now one day drive it to work and noticed when taking a turn and hitting the gas directly afterwards it has a complete loss of power, but then catches right back up and drives. After work drive it home and it dies 4-5 times. As soon as it dies, turn the key and vehicle fires right back up. But when you take a turn or hit the brake then hit the gas, total loss of power then vehicle dies.

Next day vehicle won't run for longer then 50 seconds on first cold start. Each additional start less and less time before it losses idles, bogs down and dies. We took off EGR tube last night and cleaned EGR valve with Carb and Choke Cleaner. EGR valve seems to operate fine. Replaced gasket and put all the new stuff on. Vehicle still continues same issue.

Went and got a Fuel Pressure test (which is hard to test when it won't stay running for more then 20-30 seconds now from initial cold start, and die in less to no time after each additional start). Fuel test pressure gauge reads 10psi on first start, and little as 2psi on each additional start.

We are looking into possibly replacing the 02 sensor under the vehicle thats connected onto one of the exhaust lines, and possibly the dpmfe(throttle postionsing sensor) by the egr valve. we are beyond frustrated and would really love some input here. thanks for reading and hope someone will take some time to reply with light at the end of the tunnel. and hopefully replace my hairs ive ripped out. lol!!!!!!

Tired of buying part after part and would like to narrow this down more. Have Fuel Pressure Regulator on order but would like to see if anyone else has or had any similar issues and too of what extent their resolution was.

Thank You in advance. Any information is very much appreciated at this frustrating state. Would like to fix this before winter starts back up on us.

Parts replaced since Dec 2014:
Fuel Filter x2 (replaced it a second time couple days before replacing fuel pump)
Spark Plugs (AutoLite Napa)
Spark Plug Wires (AutoLite Napa)
EEC Relay (Napa Auto Parts)
Fuel Pump Relay (actually just swapped it with anohter, and swapped back, no difference)
Fuel Pump (Precision Fuel Pumps) $200
EGR tube
EGR Valve Gasket

 

[ProcrastiNate]

Would also like to add that we have been following this site since the issues have started. Wealth of information and knowledge here. You are all awesome.

Did plenty of research on this site for the fix. And we finally decided to make a post with all of our detailed information, timeline, and problems in search of an answer.

 

[SoHK_alumni]

Definately screams of a low fuel pressue problem.

I might consider replacing the complete fuel pump assembly rather than trust the current pump and a new FPR.

 

[ranger7ltr]

I would add the tank to that...

If you have a metal tank( and your truck does) the rust inside the tank is helping to kill the fuel pump and clog the fuel filters...

The fuel pressure measurement should not be less than 35 psi up to 43-45 psi under high load...On key on the fuel pressure should jump to the minimum running pressure (35 psi) and continue to stay there when you start the engine unless the fuel filter is clogged and/or the fuel pump is dead or dying...

I fought a metal tank/clogging filter/new pump to dead pump scenario for a while( 9 months) before I got tired of replacing filters every 3-5k miles...My Explorer had sat with half a tank of fuel for over 2 years and that fuel turned to varnish... Drained the tank, cleaned the tank, added fresh fuel and fuel additive, changed the fuel pump...Changed the dead pump 1 yr later... Bought a new tank when I drained the fuel filter and the stuff that came out the tank side looked like mud and rust...

Fuel pressure issues and clogged filters became a thing of the past...Maintenance was and IS still needed... Changing fuel filters every 30k miles lets you know what the state of the inside of the tank and what is in the fuel going into the tank...My filters have been showing normal dirt in the fuel and there is no rust inside the tank...

 

[Macgiobuin]

Had similar problem; changed pump still got only 17 psi. Took down the tank (again) and put the gauge directly on the output pipe. Still only 17 psi. I extracted all the bolts holding the pump assembly and fed 12 V to the black and red wires in the harness. With a flashlight peering in, I lifted the assembly just enough to see the top of the actual pump and I saw that the regulator was spewing fuel from fatigue cracks all over the black plastic housing. (This can be very dangerous especially if you're a smoker, duh) Voila I found the problem. Now how can I get a regulator without buying the whole assembly? I don't need a pump. Maybe I'll just go to a pull-it yard and look for pump or regulator that's easy to extract.

 

[Macgiobuin]

So I looked at the regulator and saw that the regulator itself will last til the sun becomes a supernova, it's just that cheap plastic housing that's bad. The pull-it yard I went to had a few explorers but all 3 that still had a tank had tanks that were inaccessible--no wheels, laying on mud, and no they ain't gonna topple the car for a regulator. So I made a housing out of copper pipe and brass fittings and a propane soldering job. 62 psi! Now, it'll last forever.

 

[darrell milgrim]

The lowest my fuel was 44lbs.

 

[koda2000]

44 lbs is low for an '01. It should be around 65-67 PSI. It's usually the fuel pump that goes before the in-tank regulator (FPR). How many miles on your fuel pump? All of mine (with the exception of one) starting giving me trouble at around 175,000-200,000 miles and had to be replaced. When's the last time the fuel filter was changed? Sometimes the short piece of fuel line between the pump and the regulator leaks, but it's not worth dropping the tank to just replace this piece of line. You might as well just replace the pump and both pieces of fuel hose you'll find there. The fuel pumps I buy (Bosch, around $60 on eBay) come with new fuel line (which is special submersible line), FI hose clamps and a jumper wire (which is usually needed).

 

[bbrjch]

Any updates on this? Did you ever figure out what the problem was?