1999 Explorer, P1451, fuse 13 blows, canister vent solenoid, check engine light | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

  • Explorer Forum license plate frames are available 2 for $12, or 4 for $17. For photos and more details CLICK HERE

1999 Explorer, P1451, fuse 13 blows, canister vent solenoid, check engine light


New Member
September 8, 2013
Reaction score
City, State
Charlotte, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer 1999 V8 5.0 XLT
Hello, it's great to have a resource like this Ford Explorer Community. Thank you for your insights and help on this problem. I'm avoiding going to a Ford Dealer and what to, if possible, fix this myself. Any help would be much appreciated.

If Fuse #13 (under the hood) blows and that fuse controls the Canister Vent Solenoid (above the spare tire) AND the freeze frame data points to P1451 then it stands to reason that the CVS is the culprit? Why would there be eleven trouble codes. I disconnected the EGR solenoid (no power) and fuse 13 still blew so I eliminated that.

Why does a 15 amp fuse control seven different systems anyway?

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer V8 5.0 AWD. 176,000 miles on it.

Check Engine light is on. There are eleven different codes.

P1747 Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid

P0750 Shift Solenoid A

P0755 Shift Solenoid B

P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Electrical

P1507 Idle Air Control

P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1

P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1

P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit


Freeze Frame data is for code P1451 Canister Vent Solenoid

LOAD_PCT(%) 26.7
ETC(F) 192
SHRTFT1(%) -1.6
LONGFT1(%) -2.3
SHRTFT2(%) 0.8
LONGFT2(%) -1.6
RPM(min) 4139
VSS(mph) 58


This all happened July 27. I stopped for gas in Gastonia after a very humid rainy day and I believe there was water in the gas. I drove for about three minutes and everything went haywire. No acceleration, sputtering...

I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out all the bad gas.


NOW here is the other thing...... under the hood in the fuse box...

fuse #13 (15 amp) controls

Heated Oxygen Sensor\
EGR Vacuum Regulator
EVR Solenoid
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Canister Vent Solenoid

Well I checked and sure enough fuse #13 was blown out.

I replaced it with another 15amp fuse and immediately it was running perfect and back to normal

However...after five minutes it blew out. I tried a couple more and they blew out also.


This info leads me to believe that there is a short in the Canister Vent Solenoid which is located above the spare tire underneath. Would this solenoid cause all the other systems to fall?

Based on this information have you had experience with this type of problem?


I'm wondering if the CVS has a short in it also? Unplug it and see if it helps. I know mine was just a dirty pile of rust when I replaced it. All $90 dollars of it.

Are you having problems with the tranny shifting? If it were me after I figured out why the fuse was blowing I'd clear the codes and see what comes back. If fuse 13 controls the heated O2 sensors that could explain those codes.

It seems like any one of the things powered by that fuse could be shorting out and blowing the fuse. Why have you zeroed on on the Canister Vent Solenoid? Sure - it could be causing the fault - but so could most of the other things. I believe that you need to do some serious trouble shooting. I would start bu unplugging all of the devices on that ircuit that you can easily access, then replace the fuse. IF it still blows, then you know that it is not one of the things you have already unplugged. Unplug more stuff, and try again - eventually you will narrow down to a small subset of things - one of which is causing the fuse to blow. Then start unplugging one of those things at a time - eventually you will be able to replace the fuse and it won't blow; you then have found your problem device.

IF the fuse doesn't blow after the first iteration, then it IS one of those things you unplugged the first time. Then you plug things back in one at a time and wait for the fuse to blow - the last thing you plugged in is the problem device.

Yes - it's a PITA - but it's the only way to ID the problem device. And then you still have to find the short!! Good luck.