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1999 ford explorer blower motor not working

Post number 16 has been selected as best answered.

Bledsoegt61

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November 18, 2021
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City, State
Madisonville Tennessee
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford explorer Eddie
Replaced blower motor and the resistor and all fuses and relays are new all plugs and prongs are in good shape. I even replaced the EATC with one I know worked and the blower motor still isn't coming on.. plz help
 



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Welcome.
 






Replaced blower motor and the resistor and all fuses and relays are new all plugs and prongs are in good shape. I even replaced the EATC with one I know worked and the blower motor still isn't coming on.. plz help
Hi, Welcome.
I had same thing. Replaced switch on dash. Presto!!
 












Did you do a eatc self test?
My gut says it’s in the wiring or a fuse
 












Throwing parts at a problem is not a good strategy, neither is guessing - it's time for some systematic diagnosis. I'd suggest to start by testing (the presumably) good motor. Unplug it and hook directly to the battery with a pair or wires. If it works, check if the blower gets power and ground. Plug the connector back, turn the power and blower on. Get a test light (or a multimeter, if you have one) and probe both wires with respect to some solid ground or battery negative post (again, do this with the connector plugged in!). One wire should read +12V; the other should be at zero. If both are at +12V or both at zero, there is an electrical problem. Report the results and we'll help you from there.
 






Replaced blower motor and the resistor and all fuses and relays are new all plugs and prongs are in good shape. I even replaced the EATC with one I know worked and the blower motor still isn't coming on.. plz help
Did you ever find the answer? I'm having the same issue
 






first
do a EATC self test and reset as I suggested above

second
test the blower motor itself
and then the power on the truck side of things as listed two posts above

EATC is the electronics group Electronic Auto Temp Control,
not the three control knobs....just making sure
 






I just went through this with my son's '97 Mountaineer. He said the heat wasn't working, and like a dummy, I changed the thermostat without doing any diagnostics myself, only to find the blower wasn't working. (The upside to changing the thermostat was that, in the process, I found several leaking hoses that I failed to recheck after changing the radiator 2 years ago.) I replaced the resistor (located in the engine compartment below and beside the blower) with a known-to-be-good used one. It worked for a day or 2, although it didn't blow as much air as it should, before it quit again. A new blower and new resistor fixed the problem.
 






Thanks for the response,
The self test shows no errors,
Fan was removed and tested, runs fine,
I checked the plug, if I have the probes on both sides, the voltages goes up and down 6 to 9v when the control is moved on the EATC, if I test the positive side to ground on the truck I get a solid 12V, nothing on the other wire. I started out just having no blower, shortly after all the dampers stopped moving. I tried another EATC, both are the same with no error codes and I can hear the noises from the unit. If I push the button for rear fan, it comes on. All fuses and relays have been checked. The resistor is fine,. It was changed last year when I only had high speed on the fan
 






Interesting

I suspect resistor first they are the weakest link in the system
Eatc resistor from a junk yard oem sometimes out perform the new aftermarket parts
It’s always fun to connect the blower fan to battery power for testing isn’t it? I’m always holding it and I know it’s gonna jump and move but it still startles me every time lol
 






Yup, it jumps but it's almost disappointing because a faulty blower is an easy fix. I thought about the resistor but I've lost the fan on all speeds and I see a change in the voltage when the fan speed wheel is moved.. perplexing but frustrating to, a real puzzle. My brother has a 2005 F450, and is having very similar issues
 






if you can see the voltage fluctuate at the fan connector and you are using the same ground and power wires, then why wouldn’t the fan be turning?

Maybe your fan will only come on with 12.0 volts or more? So when you jumper it to battery power she spins, anything less not so much? ( Could be sticky / dirty / worn)
What are the voltages for high and low?
I’m curious o have never had to test them
 






Thanks for the response,
The self test shows no errors,
Fan was removed and tested, runs fine,
I checked the plug, if I have the probes on both sides, the voltages goes up and down 6 to 9v when the control is moved on the EATC, if I test the positive side to ground on the truck I get a solid 12V, nothing on the other wire. I started out just having no blower, shortly after all the dampers stopped moving. I tried another EATC, both are the same with no error codes and I can hear the noises from the unit. If I push the button for rear fan, it comes on. All fuses and relays have been checked. The resistor is fine,. It was changed last year when I only had high speed on the fan
Your voltage measurements indicated that the EATC is - at least for the most part - working correctly. One leg of the motor always gets the battery voltage; the other ("ground side") goes through the "resistor" box, which is controlled by the EATC to provide something akin to variable resistance. When you unplug, the "ground" side will be zero because there is no current flowing through. In addition, a direct connection to ground is provided through a bypass relay in the "resistor" box. Have you tried to measure the voltage across the motor in the "MAX" setting? If you don't see a full battery voltage, the most common problem is burned contacts in the "resistor" harness connector. Your next step should be to unplug this part and take a good look at the contacts - on both sides. This "resistor" is inserted into the air plenum from the firewall side and may be tough to access. In addition to a new "resistor", last I checked, a pigtail connector was also available to replace a burned one on the harness side. If you find this problem and take care of it, the motor should at least run on "MAX" setting. If it does but refuses to run on a lower voltage setting, the motor is bad.
Hope this helps!
 






The resistor I bought at Advance Auto came with a new harness, which I didn't need. Same with the resistor I bought for our '98 Escort.

For those who don't know, the resistor must be screwed into place (or grounded?) to work.
 






The resistor I bought at Advance Auto came with a new harness, which I didn't need. Same with the resistor I bought for our '98 Escort.

For those who don't know, the resistor must be screwed into place (or grounded?) to work.
Just a note: though commonly named "resistor", this part is very different between the EATC and the manual climate control version. Regardless of the type, It must be installed in the air plenum because it receives its cooling from the airflow there. If left to just hang in the engine compartment, probably won't live long.
 






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