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97Sandbox
Elite Explorer
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- 2000 Explorer Sport
Didn't get the lower intake installed tonight, but I did install the thermostat. Wasn't awful with the intake stood on end, I wouldn't want to do that in the vehicle though.
I cleaned up as much of the roughness and casting lines in the upper intake runners too, but looking inside the inlet, that whole casting is rough inside. At least it's a little less rough now. Tried to take a picture but this kitten (who was climbing on my shoulders the whole time I was hunched over with the die grinder) wasn't going to let that happen.
You guys seem to like the cat content anyway haha
I cleaned up as much of the roughness and casting lines in the upper intake runners too, but looking inside the inlet, that whole casting is rough inside. At least it's a little less rough now. Tried to take a picture but this kitten (who was climbing on my shoulders the whole time I was hunched over with the die grinder) wasn't going to let that happen.
You guys seem to like the cat content anyway haha
- Joined
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I also remove the intake heater plumbing in my rigs (bypass)
97Sandbox
Elite Explorer
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Just loop one hose from one barb to the other?I also remove the intake heater plumbing in my rigs (bypass)
I'm going to stick with the stock arrangement for now, but this is good to know for the future.
allmyEXes
Elite Explorer
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Deleting the EGR stuff and plugging the EGR ports in the intakes that have the holes helps lower the intake temperature too.
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
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- 98 Limited AWD 302
Deleting the EGR stuff and plugging the EGR ports in the intakes that have the holes helps lower the intake temperature too.
Keep up the good work!
The EGR system is good when it is working properly. The later external EGR keeps the hot exhaust out of the intake, that's the type to use if you can.
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- City, State
- NORTH IDAHO, 7B
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- FOURTEN
Yes I just loop the hoses to bypass the upper plenum water heater
The 96-97 5.0 have the egr plumbed through the intake and intake elbow
The 99-01 trucks the upper intake is solid and the egr no longer goes through the intake, thank goodness
The 96-97 5.0 have the egr plumbed through the intake and intake elbow
The 99-01 trucks the upper intake is solid and the egr no longer goes through the intake, thank goodness
97Sandbox
Elite Explorer
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- 2000 Explorer Sport
Yep. External EGR on this '99 and I will be keeping it.
I finished up the lower intake last night. Installed a new PCV valve before it got hard to reach. I have a new grommet too, but it fit looser than the original one, so I cleaned the crud off the original and put it back in. Also put on the "donut" from the salvage yard '98 -- it's in surprisingly good shape.
Intake is on!
And because I got excited, I kept going and torqued the rockers back down, cleaned the heads more, and installed my repainted valve covers with fresh gaskets.
It's looking like an engine again!
I finished up the lower intake last night. Installed a new PCV valve before it got hard to reach. I have a new grommet too, but it fit looser than the original one, so I cleaned the crud off the original and put it back in. Also put on the "donut" from the salvage yard '98 -- it's in surprisingly good shape.
Intake is on!
And because I got excited, I kept going and torqued the rockers back down, cleaned the heads more, and installed my repainted valve covers with fresh gaskets.
It's looking like an engine again!
- Joined
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When you Re-torque the rockers did you bar the engine over?
I like to use a thin film of permatex on the pcv grommet to make sure it stays in the lower intake. Also was the screen clean? (Under pcv)
I like to use a thin film of permatex on the pcv grommet to make sure it stays in the lower intake. Also was the screen clean? (Under pcv)
97Sandbox
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When you Re-torque the rockers did you bar the engine over?
I may pop it back off and wipe on some silicone outside the grommet before the upper intake goes on and it gets so hard to access -- I like that idea for good measure. It's funny you mention the screen, I've read about them on here, but there was no screen in my intake. When I looked in the hole it went straight to the baffle.I like to use a thin film of permatex on the pcv grommet to make sure it stays in the lower intake. Also was the screen clean? (Under pcv)
Before I put the injectors back in, do y'all recommend any specific cleaning? Other than cleaning, I'm just planning to put on new o-rings then the injectors and fuel rails can go back.
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You don’t have to re torque, not if you already got all of them to 24 ft lbs cyl by cyl with the valves closed.
When you retorqued just now did you find any loose? If not then don’t worry about it
I only said that because when I do the final torque on these pedestal Mount rockers I simply check all 16… then rotate crank at least 4 cycles, check all 16… repeat about 4 times, it only takes a few minutes
After all those engine cycles and nothing loose, all 16 click at 24 ft lbs over and over now I’m confident to mount valve covers for good
I found when I follow the book and do them one cyl at a time w valves closed after you turn engine over a bunch sometimes you can find one loose…
I wipe down each injector by hand just get all loose crap and dirt off, then wipe with some degreaser until mostly clean. I use xacto to cut old o rings off, this way you are less likely to disturb the plastic hat
I always bench test each injector unless of course engine was just running and running fine
Otherwise clean fuel rail and intake pockets
Blow out fuel rail
Use small amount Vaseline on each o ring
Seat all 8 injectors at same time. Push each injector into intake, then line up fuel rail tops, gentle wiggle side to side and press. Make sure you tighten bolts good, I actually had a 5.0 fuel rail work it’s way loose and start spraying because the bolt I used was 1/8” too long! Scary
When you retorqued just now did you find any loose? If not then don’t worry about it
I only said that because when I do the final torque on these pedestal Mount rockers I simply check all 16… then rotate crank at least 4 cycles, check all 16… repeat about 4 times, it only takes a few minutes
After all those engine cycles and nothing loose, all 16 click at 24 ft lbs over and over now I’m confident to mount valve covers for good
I found when I follow the book and do them one cyl at a time w valves closed after you turn engine over a bunch sometimes you can find one loose…
I wipe down each injector by hand just get all loose crap and dirt off, then wipe with some degreaser until mostly clean. I use xacto to cut old o rings off, this way you are less likely to disturb the plastic hat
I always bench test each injector unless of course engine was just running and running fine
Otherwise clean fuel rail and intake pockets
Blow out fuel rail
Use small amount Vaseline on each o ring
Seat all 8 injectors at same time. Push each injector into intake, then line up fuel rail tops, gentle wiggle side to side and press. Make sure you tighten bolts good, I actually had a 5.0 fuel rail work it’s way loose and start spraying because the bolt I used was 1/8” too long! Scary
97Sandbox
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I snugged them down cylinder by cylinder but did not torque them until the end when I did all of them. I'll pull the covers back off tonight, crank and re-torque. It's only a few bolts to undo and worth the peace of mind. Do you think the cork gaskets will be okay to reuse if they were only compressed for a day and never got oily?
- Joined
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Yes gaskets fine
I always skim the cork
Gaskets with rtv anyways, I don’t like
Valve cover leaks and these stamped steel ones can leak easy
There is a metal screen under the pcv valve lol no biggie they are usually very clean
I always skim the cork
Gaskets with rtv anyways, I don’t like
Valve cover leaks and these stamped steel ones can leak easy
There is a metal screen under the pcv valve lol no biggie they are usually very clean
97Sandbox
Elite Explorer
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- 2000 Explorer Sport
Sounds good. I'll skim with RTV too, I've had mixed results with cork gaskets in the past.Yes gaskets fine
I always skim the cork
Gaskets with rtv anyways, I don’t like
Valve cover leaks and these stamped steel ones can leak easy
There is a metal screen under the pcv valve lol no biggie they are usually very clean
I did look into the PCV hole when I was deep cleaning the intake to get aluminum dust out and I assure you there was no screen in there. Maybe it got punched out long ago?
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- 98 Limited AWD 302
The oil baffle underneath the PCV and its grommet, is a round steel thing about 1.5" deep/long. It's a simple chunk of steel wire bunched up in its round metal housing. It just catches oil mist, and the oil drips back down into the intake. If the engine is a gunked up type, from bad oil etc, then that screen will be full too. You never need to buy one unless it's missing. Simply take it out and blast it with carb and brake cleaner, good as new; drop it back in before the grommet and PCV.
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97Sandbox
Elite Explorer
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- City, State
- Seward, NE
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 Explorer Sport
The baffle in mine is a stamped piece of steel riveted to the inside of the lower intake manifold. It covers the bottom of the PCV valve and blocks oil spray from the valley. There was no round piece of steel that I saw and definitely no steel wire. I scrubbed pretty well in there and although a lot of carbon crud came out, I never saw or felt anything like what you're describing. Is the screen something I can/should buy and shove into the PCV hole before I put the grommet back in with RTV?The oil baffle underneath the PCV and its grommet, is a round steel thing about 1.5" deep/long. It's a simple chunk of steel wire bunched up in its round metal housing. It just catches oil mist, and the oil drips back down into the intake. If the engine is a gunked up type, from bad oil etc, then that screen will be full too. You never need to buy one unless it's missing. Simply take it out and blast it with carb and brake cleaner, good as new; drop it back in before the grommet and PCV.