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1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

the Tcase fluid is mercon->XL1->MercLV xl1 no longer made superceeded by LV.
 



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I just use Mercon iii is cheap
 






You're not transplanting the AWD transfer case to the manual trans? It's so nice in snow, just *goes forward* no muss no fuss. I rebuilt one for a 1997 Mountaineer. There's a couple of minor variants that use slightly different chain and sprocket widths. Had to replace the input shaft which was a tad bent. Also did the bearings (toasted due to the bent shaft), chain, put in a rebuilt viscous coupling, and the front drive CV joint.
I assume the input shaft got tweaked because the chain was loose enough it tried to jump a tooth.

The viscous coupling won't care about fluid type because it's sealed with a silicone fluid inside. What it really hates is being driven around without the front drive hooked up.
 






You're not transplanting the AWD transfer case to the manual trans? It's so nice in snow, just *goes forward* no muss no fuss. I rebuilt one for a 1997 Mountaineer. There's a couple of minor variants that use slightly different chain and sprocket widths. Had to replace the input shaft which was a tad bent. Also did the bearings (toasted due to the bent shaft), chain, put in a rebuilt viscous coupling, and the front drive CV joint.
I assume the input shaft got tweaked because the chain was loose enough it tried to jump a tooth.

The viscous coupling won't care about fluid type because it's sealed with a silicone fluid inside. What it really hates is being driven around without the front drive hooked up.
It doesn’t care if then front drive isn’t hooked up. I drove well over 10,000 miles without a front shaft and it was fine.
 






I don’t like the full Time awd it is a 70/30
Split not like true 4wd. It robs mpg and passing power plus it eats front tires and wheel bearings, steering is much heavier with the awd. When the front tires are not “pulling” the power is wasted and generates heat. In 1996 when they stuffed the 5.0 into the gen ii and used the small awd t case gas was cheap and so were tires.
I much prefer the true 2wd 4h and 4l bw4406 t case which bolts in. In fact the first thing to go when a 5.0 lands here is the awd
 






You're not transplanting the AWD transfer case to the manual trans? It's so nice in snow, just *goes forward* no muss no fuss. I rebuilt one for a 1997 Mountaineer. There's a couple of minor variants that use slightly different chain and sprocket widths. Had to replace the input shaft which was a tad bent. Also did the bearings (toasted due to the bent shaft), chain, put in a rebuilt viscous coupling, and the front drive CV joint.
I assume the input shaft got tweaked because the chain was loose enough it tried to jump a tooth.

The viscous coupling won't care about fluid type because it's sealed with a silicone fluid inside. What it really hates is being driven around without the front drive hooked up.


The AWD is sealed, very true, and it doesn't care what fluid is in the TC. Those early real AWD TC's can all use Mercon or Mercon V, and the later stuff too most likely. The later TC failures were all non AWD, they had the internal clutches like the V6 automatic 4WD TC's. Those clutches cannot take the really slick ATF types, such as Mercon V and later.

Ford made Mercon, then they later released Mercon V, they never made a Mercon II, or III, or IV. The old Mercon bottles were labeled Dexron III, with a slash next to Mercon. Those were not Mercon III fluid, it was and is Dexron III, and Mercon or Mercon I if you like. It was not a Mercon III, there's no such thing.

I bought two cases of Valvoline TC fluid from Amazon ages ago, it was $6 a quart then.
 






You're not transplanting the AWD transfer case to the manual trans? It's so nice in snow, just *goes forward* no muss no fuss. I rebuilt one for a 1997 Mountaineer. There's a couple of minor variants that use slightly different chain and sprocket widths. Had to replace the input shaft which was a tad bent. Also did the bearings (toasted due to the bent shaft), chain, put in a rebuilt viscous coupling, and the front drive CV joint.
I assume the input shaft got tweaked because the chain was loose enough it tried to jump a tooth.

The viscous coupling won't care about fluid type because it's sealed with a silicone fluid inside. What it really hates is being driven around without the front drive hooked up.
Good to know about the viscous coupling! That actually makes a lot of sense.

I do like the AWD system for daily use on gravel and I imagine I'd like it in snow too. However, this Mounty will not likely become a daily for me, but rather a temporary farm beater until the 4.0 in my Sport blows and the Mounty becomes a 5.0 donor. In the meantime, I just want to revive the 5.0, get everything set up for a manual trans, and have fun. 2WD is fun in gravel when you're not in a hurry to be somewhere, and true 4x4 would come in handy on the farm and that's why I'm thinking I'll be happier with a 4406.
 






Yes but dextron is a Chevy word and my
Mouth doesn’t like to form those so I call it Mercon iii I’m stubborn
 






Ford contracted to have Mercon made. The aftermarket companies making ATF discovered they could produce one that met both standards, the Dexron III standards, and the Mercon standards.

My point is they never made a Mercon III, not ever. The bottles everyone has looked at had the Mercon name on them, and the "III" following the Dexron. They made Mercon, and later they made Mercon V, there never was a Mercon II, or Mercon III, or Mercon IV. The only correct name for it is either Mercon, or Mercon I, and the "I" is inherent in the original name Mercon.
 






We're really getting into this Mercon thing haha!

One time I went to my local Ford dealer and asked for "Mercon V" and the parts counter guy made fun of me saying everyone at Ford says "Mercon five." But my point was if there never was a II, III, or IV, how was I to know the V was a Roman numeral and not just a letter? Oh well, I still say the "Vee."
 












We're really getting into this Mercon thing haha!

One time I went to my local Ford dealer and asked for "Mercon V" and the parts counter guy made fun of me saying everyone at Ford says "Mercon five." But my point was if there never was a II, III, or IV, how was I to know the V was a Roman numeral and not just a letter? Oh well, I still say the "Vee."

That reminds of the great movie "V for Vendetta", about a man named V which came from the door he was imprisoned behind.
 






After more progress dismantling the barn this weekend, I came to the realization the studs were too deteriorated to use effectively in the coop. I broke down and bought a bunch of new 2x4s, at least it was a pleasant reminder of how fast you can work with new materials (not trimming off rot, pulling nails, etc.). Framing is pretty much done!
1690805606008.png


I also squeezed in some Mounty maintenance on Saturday. Got the fuel filter replaced and did the seafoam treatment. I used the PCV hose method and it seemed to work well. While I waited for the seafoam to soak in the cylinders, I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body, which weren't terrible to begin with.

I've also continued poking around the engine bay and have uncovered a few things:
1. Explorer 302s have two idler pulleys. I'll need to toss a ribbed pulley in my next order, as I didn't realize it was there before.
2. At least one oil leak source appears to be the cam synchronizer. Do y'all recommend replacing the whole thing at this mileage (190k)?
1690806136486.png


3. The coolant leak seems to be running down the left side and is getting sprayed back onto the steering shaft and left UCA:
1690806412414.png

I can see where it's pooling to the left of the cam synchro and behind the PS pump bracket:
1690806482027.png

Interestingly enough, there isn't any noticeable coolant drip under the thermostat housing or aroundthe water pump. Does this indicate a leak via lower intake manifold gasket?
 






There is also the heater water jacket in that area that can leak coolant… usually though it is the thermo housing or the little bypass hose

I have never ever seen a cam synchronizer leak oil not once! Valve cover gaskets?

I would for sure plan to re seal the entire engine when it’s out timing cover lower intake and rear main are the big leakers
The oil pressure sensor and dipstick usually seep some oil
 






There is also the heater water jacket in that area that can leak coolant… usually though it is the thermo housing or the little bypass hose

I have never ever seen a cam synchronizer leak oil not once! Valve cover gaskets?

I would for sure plan to re seal the entire engine when it’s out timing cover lower intake and rear main are the big leakers
The oil pressure sensor and dipstick usually seep some oil
I agree on the CPS leaking oil. The gear should be wet, but the well it sits in should be clear of oil. They have an o ring, but I assume that’s for vacuum, and to keep stuff out.

I’d also suspect the valve covers, and it’s just pooling in a low area.
 






There is also the heater water jacket in that area that can leak coolant… usually though it is the thermo housing or the little bypass hose
I'll have to look closer, maybe it is the bypass hose (which I already have a new replacement hose for).

I have never ever seen a cam synchronizer leak oil not once! Valve cover gaskets?
Surprisingly there isn't really any oily buildup on the lower intake manifold or heads, but I will definitely be replacing the valve cover gaskets. Maybe it's just leaking at one or both of the front two areas where the head and lower intake come together under each valve cover? I'll have to look closely when I start taking parts off

I would for sure plan to re seal the entire engine when it’s out timing cover lower intake and rear main are the big leakers
The oil pressure sensor and dipstick usually seep some oil
With the engine staying in the Mounty for now, I plan to replace gaskets for pretty much everything but the oil pan. The rear main seal will happen when I swap in the M5R2. Eventually, I'll do the oil pan gasket (and new oil pump) when the engine is pulled and I have easy access.
 






Well then an in frame Re seal! I have done that plenty
I would do timing cover lower intake and up all at once
The felpro blue kit is avail right now, supplies on this kit have been hit or miss last couple of years… the alternative Gasket sets I have seen “USA auto gasket” well….let’s just say I prefer to use the felpro
 






Well then an in frame Re seal! I have done that plenty
I would do timing cover lower intake and up all at once
The felpro blue kit is avail right now, supplies on this kit have been hit or miss last couple of years… the alternative Gasket sets I have seen “USA auto gasket” well….let’s just say I prefer to use the felpro
Yep, I'm doing this "engine refresh" much the same approach as my OHV refresh from last year.

Timing cover will definitely be coming off for timing set replacement and I'd like to get in and clean all the carbon out of the intake. Surely after 190k it's pretty crusty in there.

I have the felpro kit and it seems very comprehensive. It even comes with valve stem seals, which I've never done before but I think I will give it a try on this 302!
 






You should have a valve seal press on tool and little plastic condom for installing them
I ordered the tool but also have used a small socket, works fine

Valve seals are a common leak spot on these as they get older

Most 190k 5.0
I see inside have very little carbon buildup
 



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Sounds good. I don't expect to work on as many 302s as you do, so I'll plan on just using a socket.
 






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