1st Gen 4wd to 95-97 Ranger Brake Swap Info/Parts List | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1st Gen 4wd to 95-97 Ranger Brake Swap Info/Parts List

^^ Looks great man!! Can't wait to see the hulk sporting those upgraded knuckles! Also, Thanks Again! for the Warn Hubs! It drives great sporting them over the auto hubs :D

DSCN3082.jpg
 



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I was gonna see if you wanted to hit a trail or 2 this weekend but now I have a front inner axle seal gone because I tried a shortcut! So maybe next weekend if I can get it fixed next Friday you up?
 


















Suicide77 said:
^^ Looks great man!! Can't wait to see the hulk sporting those upgraded knuckles! Also, Thanks Again! for the Warn Hubs! It drives great sporting them over the auto hubs :D

Damn that looks good!
 






I'm finally assembling the parts to do this mod. too. Ordered the knuckles,rotors,and brake hoses today!:)
 












Does anyone know if the brake hoses from the donor vehicle are necessary? I have extended stainless lines on my truck and would like to keep them if possible..

Benjam :D
 






Yes, you can keep the originals.

But someone said earlier that the lines fit the new caliper better if you grind off the edge of the brake line block that meets the new caliper so that they can be mounted at a 45* angle in.
 






Yes, you can keep the originals.

But someone said earlier that the lines fit the new caliper better if you grind off the edge of the brake line block that meets the new caliper so that they can be mounted at a 45* angle in.

This is 100% correct..and the only thing that causes an issue.
 






Excellent, thank you guys!

Benjam :D
 






just finished this on my Explorer-was straight forward!!
 






Hey all,

How does the pedal feel in your trucks after this upgrade?

I had a real low pedal after bleeding brakes right after the upgrade..Bled them once more, mild improvement but still not great by any means. I put in a new master cylinder after seeing signs of seepage on the booster, still only a mild improvement.

I'm curious if I need a different master due to the larger front brakes? I would think not..

Any help is appreciated here,

Benjam :D
 






I used the same master. Did not touch anything not shown here. Pedal only got better after the upgrade. Are your rears bled fully? Any leaks on the lines? Is the bleeder at the top of the caliper? (I think it might be possible to reverse the calipers and get the bleeder on both sides on the bottom which would really not help)

There must still be air in there somewhere. Try tapping the calipers a couple times with a rubber mallet to coax any air to the top too.
 






Hey all,

How does the pedal feel in your trucks after this upgrade?

I had a real low pedal after bleeding brakes right after the upgrade..Bled them once more, mild improvement but still not great by any means. I put in a new master cylinder after seeing signs of seepage on the booster, still only a mild improvement.

I'm curious if I need a different master due to the larger front brakes? I would think not..

Any help is appreciated here,

Benjam :D

I also used the same master and havent had any issues....I use the gravity bleed method first till theres a small puddle then pressure bleed from there...also make sure the truck is running so any abs motor issues willbe properly bled..ive heard its best both running and not but my prefrence is running and ive never had any issues
 






Thanks for the quick feedback gents,

I pressure bled all the way around, until I had a consistent stream of fluid out of the bleeders. The truck wasnt running, thats a thought.

Calipers are on correctly ;)

I think the problem lies with my master cylinder and the bench bleeding. I did some, but am thinking I should pull it and try once more. Just wanted to clarify I can indeed use the stock (replacement) master.

Benjam :D
 






I had the same issue on my first round of bleeding, and ended up using some welding c clamps to chase out some air that got stuck in there. More cavities means more changes for hiding air.
 






I had the same issue on my first round of bleeding, and ended up using some welding c clamps to chase out some air that got stuck in there. More cavities means more changes for hiding air.

Explain more about this?

Did you push the pistons back in while bleeding with the use of c-clamps?

Benjam :D
 






Parts donor vehicles:
95-97 Ranger with 4WABS and 4x4, 2.3L (according to Tbars4) and 3.0 and 4.0 engines (confirmed)

Ok, now someone else said that the Mazda trucks would work also, which makes sense. BUT, I'm still confused on some details. According to car-part.com (which uses the Hollander interchange), the '95-'97 models came with either a D28 or a D35 front axle. Now, are those D28's actually all hybrids, using the same knuckles as the D35? I'm guessing yes, since I doubt the 2.3L trucks would have come with a true D35, and its said that the 2.3L trucks are valid donors. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Also, '95-'97 came with and without Front ABS. I would be installing this on a '93 Ranger without ABS, so does it matter if I get ABS or Non-ABS donor parts? If I get the w/ ABS donor parts, can I just leave off the ABS parts (sensor and "tone" ring behind rotor), or are they somehow not compatible?
 



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..It is still a common error about Rangers throughout the parts industry that the Ranger continued with the D28 after 90...They did not...

This thread has some useful info on the Hybrid Dana 28/35 differences..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256656&highlight=hybrid


Dana 28 vehicles...
Dana 28 was used on Ranger/BII's up to and thru 1990...This is a transition year so you will need to check the vehicle...

This mis-information in the parts guides can also be found sometimes when looking up stock parts for the 91-94 X..;)

..Ford had an inventory of Dana 28 gears and what better way to use them up than make a Hybrid..:hammer:

..It is also hard to convince people that Ford also moves parts over to the new models of a transition year in order to use them up and it also explains why transition year wiring doesn't always match up with the color charts..:D
 






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