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1st gen clutch change tricks/tips?

ld50

Oh, the money you`ll blow
Elite Explorer
Joined
April 16, 2002
Messages
3,324
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28
City, State
British Columbia
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 4 dr 4x4 manual XL.
Hey guys, I`m changing my clutch out next month. I can`t find a decent write-up here, unless it`s hiding.

I`ve done a few clutch changes in my day, but haven`t done an explorer yet.

I think I am going with a centre force clutch. (BUT)
If I do, I need to decide which one though, they have several, which promise more grabbing power, in increments (30 60 90?).
By the same token, I wheel my Ex, so the clutch would most likely see more slipping, and friction point work than a street truck. I don`t know if the centre force is better in that respect or not, and my clutch never slips on me anyway, so why do I need more grabbing power? would be nice to spend less on the stock replacement kit. (both come with a centering tool, but the centere force doesn`t have a throwout/pilot bearing, apparently)

I have decided that on top of changing the throwout bearing, I will replace the slave cylinder.

I wonder about the rear main seal on my engine. The guy at the parts store told me today that it is a good idea to change it while it`s all opened up.
I`ve never done a seal like that before and wonder if it is harder than it looks, anyone do it? should I heed the "if it`s not broken, don`t fix it" mantra? I`ll string myself up if I replace it improperly and find that it leaks after the job!

Beforehand, I`m going to go to my muffler guy and have him replace the bolts on my muffler system that I will have to undo when I do the job.

If there is any other tips you can throw my way, I`d appreciate it as well.
 



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I can't speak from personal experience, but I've heard some negative things about the Centerforce clutches made for the 4.0's. Several people have used the Spec clutches (you can get them in different stages), look on clutchdepot.com for them. I think they also have just about the best prices around from what I've seen.
 






Thanks, I just might stay with a stock setup, since mine seems to have done so well.
 






I haven't done a writeup but I changed my clutch in December. PM me and I'll get motivated to write up some tips.
 






I am not impressed with stock clutches. The last on I put in is going to last about 50K miles. I may try a Centerforce or heavy duty version next time. Do not forget to machine the flywheel. If there is any evidence that the main seal in the engine is leaking or damaged I would replace it.
 






lol, I`ll decide what clutch to get at the last minute and it`ll probably be centreforce, dang it seems to be a tough decision
 






Before you get a Centerforce, I would go over to RPS and ask around on the 4.0 board about them, a couple of people there have tried them firsthand.

-Dan
 






I have changed mine 3 times, all with Ford OEM, I do put alot of stress with wheeling, towing etc. As stated before, make sure you replace/resurface flywheel, change the slave, make sure everything is stays clean, i.e. greasy fingerprints, take your time and invest in a couple of cold cases of your friends favorite beer! Takes about 3 hours start to finish, okay, took 6 hours the first time. really helps if you have a body lift, some longgggg extensions and some good 3/8 knuckles, I always have broken at least one during each of my swapouts
 






Before you get a Centerforce, I would go over to RPS and ask around on the 4.0 board about them

That`s the problem, for every two people who like the centerforce there`s one who claims it`s a pile `o crap. Seems to me that more people like them than not, it`s the same when thinking about the stock clutch kits, how do you make the call?
all it does is make me shift back and forth.
My local parts store carries centerforce, so another type might be a hassle to bring in..
 






No matter which you go with, I would check the prices over at Clutchdepot.com before buying from a local shop.
 






Thanks I`l look at clutchdepot, but sometimes a good deal isn`t so good when I have to pay duty and shipping to Canada
 






Ahhh... I didn't notice you lived in Canada, that would possibly make a difference.
 






It would be about 40$ cdn cheaper to go through that site it looks like... but I haven`t added duty yet, I don`t know, might be worth it if they`re better.
 






SVT Girl did mine, so it's not as hard as you think.

I did play tool ***** and lend assistance when needed.


169372222.jpg
 






My clutch just went out tonight, or at least it did half way. I was sitting still offroad in 1st gear with my foot on the brake, then something moved in the clutch pedal, and the truck died.
It seemed to work about 70% of the time when I pushed on the clutch, the rest of the time it wouldn't disengage. I got it home, but now it looks like its time for a clutch job. Not sure this is something I can do without a transmission jack and a full rack/lift

I think I'm gonna go OEM from the dealer at employee's cost.
 






Man I need a girl that can change a clutch.
fordlover sounds more like you are having a problem with one of the parts that disengages the clutch rather than the clutch itself. See the clutch is naturaly engaged, pressing the peddal sends fluid from the master cyl to the slave to the fork and disengages the clutch. One of the above is probably bad. Check the fluid in your cltch master cylander
 






I just figgured that several of the fingers on my pressure plate were broken, and sometimes the throwout bearing was catching them and sometimes not. my clutch fluid is full, so I'll keep lookin
 






Any more tips?

Do I really have to drain the tranny fluid like the manual indicates?

Looks like I have to drop the tranny with the t-case attached, is that the best way?

I figured I would also get some plugs for the top of my tranny as is talked about in the maintenance tips section on the home page.
 






Yeah you are going to want to drain the fluid. Otherwise it well end up all ver the ground and you. That stuff stinks. If you can do it keep the tcase attached as it will save time.
 



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I think it`s time for a change of fluid anyway, but where does it leak from when you take it off the engine?
 






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