Well, okay.................I will throw some of my own then.
So, I couldn't put my hands on my Haynes Manual this morning, and my CD manuals are for 2nd gens, so we just went into this blindly. We tried to take a couple of shortcuts at first, but they ended up taking us more time in the long run. We only had the chance to work on it this afternoon, so this post is basically just for tranny/t-case removal. I will throw whatever I learn about installation after we get it back together.
*note - all trucks differ slightly, but this is what we had to do to this one, which is 4wd with electronic t-case
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Spray the bolts in advance...................we didn't do this, but it would help. Penetrating oil is a great thing!!
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Remove the shifter.................remove the four phillips head screws from the base of the boot, and pull it up. Remove the three Torx head screws (T30) from the top of the tranny, and remove the shifter.
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Get it off the ground.............the more room you have to work underneath, the better. Typical jackstand height won't cut it. We only jacked up the front, and used 8" solid blocks under our jackstands, located under the very front portion of the frame (out of the way while we work from the sides).
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Drain the fluid..................a big, huge drain pan would be great for this. One of those little containers with the twist-off 6" tops on them WON'T!!!! When you pull that drain plug, the fluid will shoot out about 1.5', then settle down to going straight down.
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The starter has to go................you may look at it at first and think "the starter is on the engine side, it can stay," no it can't. Make it go away. The harness to the starter is extra long, and falls from the passenger side, so just unbolt it, and let it lay on the ground. Under the starter will be a harness binding strap that has a stud that goes through the engine flange into the bellhousing, go ahead and remove the stud.
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Remove the skiplate.......................four bolts, done.
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Remove the driveshafts.................you will need a 8mm and a 12mm, 12-point (preferably 1/2 drive) sockets. Seperate the driveshafts from the t-case end only and let them hang. I mark the ujoints and tcase with a marker, so that they go back in the exact way they came out, but I am just **** like that.
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Remove connections at t-case..............you will need to remove the speedo cable from the t-case, which is held on with one bolt. With electronic t-case, you need to disconnect the shift motor plug. REMEMBER, this plug has the Ford "Push In" tabs on it................it looks just like one of those plugs that you kinda pry out the tabs on then slide, but you are pushing in with these tabs! (cruel joke by Ford)
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Remove the O2s................this X ('94) had two o2s on each side of the "y-pipe." Reach around the tranny and unplug the sensors from above, then remove them from the pipe.
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Remove the slave cylinder hydraulic line.................GRRRRRRRRRR! This is that line you see sticking out of the driver side of the tranny with a nice brass fitting on the end, and a bleeder screw sticking out a couple of inches above it. I read that there is a special tool for this fitting (gotta love Ford fluid fittings!!!!!!!), but it is hard to find and costs money. This fitting can be removed with a flat blade screwdriver, and quite a bit of patience. To quote another EF member (410Fortune), this fitting "is like chinesse fingercuffs." Very true!!! You need to push in, to be able to pull out. Grab the line and push it into the tranny, while using your screwdriver to (somewhat) gently press in on the white nylon ring all around until it shoves in............then gently pull the line out. You may try this a few times, and swear I am full of ****, but it will work..........be patient.
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Remove the exhaust "y-pipe"..................unless you have a body lift, and I don't care what anyone says, you NEED to remove the y-pipe. Some say you don't have to, and I tried this, and found that I needed another 1.5"-2" between the y-pipe and the firewall to remove the tranny. With this X, the y-pipe HAD to go. We removed the two bolts (15mm socket with extensions and swivel) on each side that connected the forward portions of the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. These bolts should be sprayed in advance. The bolts on the aft flange of the y-pipe that connect to the first cat were way gone and had no chance of easily removing. The bolts on the "spring flange" after the cats looked much better and we removed them pretty easily. With all six bolts removed, the y-pipe + cats came right out.
hmmm........I think we are all disconnected at this point except for the bell housing bolts and tranny crossover, but I may have forgotten a couple of small things. Take a good look at the tranny/t-case from all angles and make sure nothing is still attached. From this point on, if you have been working alone, you probably want to find a friend about now. A tranny/t-case combo isn't exactly light, and I highly recommend having someone else there for help, and mainly for safety sake!
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Support the tranny......................time for the floorjack. Roll a floorjack, from the front, under the transmission and support it just in front of the crossmember. Jack it up just enough to meet the tranny at this point. At this point, remove the two bolts that attach the crossmember to the transmission. Remember, the tranny is supported by the jack, and still by the crossmember, so no weight change is occuring. (ie, nothing to worry about)
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Remove the tranny crossmember.....................the crossmember will have one nut on the bottom of the frame on the driver's side, and two bolts on the side of the frame on the passenger side. Remove the nut and the two bolts, and remove crossmember. Remember, the tranny is supported by the jack (ie, still safe).
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Support the engine....................if you want. Not a huge concern, but if you worry about your motor mounts, or don't like the thought of your engine resting on the firewall.....................stick a jackstand under the engine with about 1" of gap. This
should work, but I didn't do it.
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Remove the bellhousing bolts............................there are eight of them. Two on the bottom, two on top, and two on each side. The two on the bottom are easy to get to. The four side ones are semi-easy with rachet extensions and a socket swivel. The top ones ................um ..............PITA!!! Not sure on the perfect method to get to these, but I ended up sitting on the engine and reaching around with a wrench. Three cut knuckles later, I had them out. The eight bolts have different lengths, so keep up with them. But if you get them confused, the top ones are the medium length ones, the upper side ones are the short ones, and the lower side ones and the bottom ones are the long ones.
At this point, the only thing holding the tranny up and on is friction. This is the time to be safe, because a couple hundred pounds of tranny/t-case falling on your head is gonna hurt!!
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The tranny/t-case comes out...................hopefully. Definately a two person job at this point IMO. Lower the jack about 1"-2". With one person (from passenger side) in charge of the jack and kinda supporting the front of the tranny, and the other person (driver's side) holding the t-case, start to pull the tranny/t-case combo towards the back. Remember that there is a side-to-side weight difference in this whole thing because the t-case is off to the driver's side. Move the combo far enough to seperate the the bellhousing from the engine, then rest the front of the tranny on the radius arm crossmember. Then, slowly, lower the jack until the t-case is on the ground. Then place jack under the front of the tranny and gently go up and back, while sliding the t-case on the floor, then down with the jack. Then both people can lift the front of the tranny and put it to the side of the jack.
Pull tranny/t-case combo out to the side of the truck................spit and cause at it for being a PITA to get out, and go grab a beer and have a smoke.
Back under truck.............
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Remove pressure and clutch plate..................six bolts, falls out.
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Remove flywheel....................six bolts, in the middle, while placing a pry bar across two of the "studs" on the wheel should give enough leverage. Take the flywheel to get turned.
So, this is the point we are at right now because of time. I think it may have taken us less time to do it than it took me to write this!
Should get into finishing it up sometime next week, and since I have written this much, I might as well write about that also. So, until then..............
No on wants this!!!
j/k 
