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1st Gen Clutch Replacement Tips & Tricks

Robb

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Hey guys!

One of my employees has mentioned that the clutch in his '94 X has been "slightly slipping" lately. I had a chance to drive his truck last week (picking it up from getting a couple of new tires) and I can officially say that the clutch is flat gone.

So, I set a little time aside for me and my brother to replace the clutch for the end of this week. Of course, a little work has crept up to forbid this, but hopefully we should get some time between tomorrow afternoon through Friday afternoon to get our hands dirty with it.

What we got: Haynes manual, full clutch kit, slave cylinder on order (pick up tomorrow), and a shop that can turn the flywheel in about an hour.

What surprises should we expect to encounter? What "special" tools should we make sure we have? What should we ignore in the manual and "do it this way" instead?

Any tips and tricks you can throw our way would be great!!! We aren't sure how many hours we will have to put into this, but whatever isn't done by 4:30 on Friday, will be done on our personal time to be done by 8:00 Monday. This is a :nono: No on wants this!!!

Help if you can! Thanks!!
 


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Robb

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Well, okay.................I will throw some of my own then.

So, I couldn't put my hands on my Haynes Manual this morning, and my CD manuals are for 2nd gens, so we just went into this blindly. We tried to take a couple of shortcuts at first, but they ended up taking us more time in the long run. We only had the chance to work on it this afternoon, so this post is basically just for tranny/t-case removal. I will throw whatever I learn about installation after we get it back together.

*note - all trucks differ slightly, but this is what we had to do to this one, which is 4wd with electronic t-case

-Spray the bolts in advance...................we didn't do this, but it would help. Penetrating oil is a great thing!!

-Remove the shifter.................remove the four phillips head screws from the base of the boot, and pull it up. Remove the three Torx head screws (T30) from the top of the tranny, and remove the shifter.

-Get it off the ground.............the more room you have to work underneath, the better. Typical jackstand height won't cut it. We only jacked up the front, and used 8" solid blocks under our jackstands, located under the very front portion of the frame (out of the way while we work from the sides).

-Drain the fluid..................a big, huge drain pan would be great for this. One of those little containers with the twist-off 6" tops on them WON'T!!!! When you pull that drain plug, the fluid will shoot out about 1.5', then settle down to going straight down.

-The starter has to go................you may look at it at first and think "the starter is on the engine side, it can stay," no it can't. Make it go away. The harness to the starter is extra long, and falls from the passenger side, so just unbolt it, and let it lay on the ground. Under the starter will be a harness binding strap that has a stud that goes through the engine flange into the bellhousing, go ahead and remove the stud.

-Remove the skiplate.......................four bolts, done.

-Remove the driveshafts.................you will need a 8mm and a 12mm, 12-point (preferably 1/2 drive) sockets. Seperate the driveshafts from the t-case end only and let them hang. I mark the ujoints and tcase with a marker, so that they go back in the exact way they came out, but I am just **** like that.

-Remove connections at t-case..............you will need to remove the speedo cable from the t-case, which is held on with one bolt. With electronic t-case, you need to disconnect the shift motor plug. REMEMBER, this plug has the Ford "Push In" tabs on it................it looks just like one of those plugs that you kinda pry out the tabs on then slide, but you are pushing in with these tabs! (cruel joke by Ford)

-Remove the O2s................this X ('94) had two o2s on each side of the "y-pipe." Reach around the tranny and unplug the sensors from above, then remove them from the pipe.

-Remove the slave cylinder hydraulic line.................GRRRRRRRRRR! This is that line you see sticking out of the driver side of the tranny with a nice brass fitting on the end, and a bleeder screw sticking out a couple of inches above it. I read that there is a special tool for this fitting (gotta love Ford fluid fittings!!!!!!!), but it is hard to find and costs money. This fitting can be removed with a flat blade screwdriver, and quite a bit of patience. To quote another EF member (410Fortune), this fitting "is like chinesse fingercuffs." Very true!!! You need to push in, to be able to pull out. Grab the line and push it into the tranny, while using your screwdriver to (somewhat) gently press in on the white nylon ring all around until it shoves in............then gently pull the line out. You may try this a few times, and swear I am full of sh1t, but it will work..........be patient.

-Remove the exhaust "y-pipe"..................unless you have a body lift, and I don't care what anyone says, you NEED to remove the y-pipe. Some say you don't have to, and I tried this, and found that I needed another 1.5"-2" between the y-pipe and the firewall to remove the tranny. With this X, the y-pipe HAD to go. We removed the two bolts (15mm socket with extensions and swivel) on each side that connected the forward portions of the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. These bolts should be sprayed in advance. The bolts on the aft flange of the y-pipe that connect to the first cat were way gone and had no chance of easily removing. The bolts on the "spring flange" after the cats looked much better and we removed them pretty easily. With all six bolts removed, the y-pipe + cats came right out.

hmmm........I think we are all disconnected at this point except for the bell housing bolts and tranny crossover, but I may have forgotten a couple of small things. Take a good look at the tranny/t-case from all angles and make sure nothing is still attached. From this point on, if you have been working alone, you probably want to find a friend about now. A tranny/t-case combo isn't exactly light, and I highly recommend having someone else there for help, and mainly for safety sake!

-Support the tranny......................time for the floorjack. Roll a floorjack, from the front, under the transmission and support it just in front of the crossmember. Jack it up just enough to meet the tranny at this point. At this point, remove the two bolts that attach the crossmember to the transmission. Remember, the tranny is supported by the jack, and still by the crossmember, so no weight change is occuring. (ie, nothing to worry about)

-Remove the tranny crossmember.....................the crossmember will have one nut on the bottom of the frame on the driver's side, and two bolts on the side of the frame on the passenger side. Remove the nut and the two bolts, and remove crossmember. Remember, the tranny is supported by the jack (ie, still safe).

-Support the engine....................if you want. Not a huge concern, but if you worry about your motor mounts, or don't like the thought of your engine resting on the firewall.....................stick a jackstand under the engine with about 1" of gap. This should work, but I didn't do it.

-Remove the bellhousing bolts............................there are eight of them. Two on the bottom, two on top, and two on each side. The two on the bottom are easy to get to. The four side ones are semi-easy with rachet extensions and a socket swivel. The top ones ................um ..............PITA!!! Not sure on the perfect method to get to these, but I ended up sitting on the engine and reaching around with a wrench. Three cut knuckles later, I had them out. The eight bolts have different lengths, so keep up with them. But if you get them confused, the top ones are the medium length ones, the upper side ones are the short ones, and the lower side ones and the bottom ones are the long ones.

At this point, the only thing holding the tranny up and on is friction. This is the time to be safe, because a couple hundred pounds of tranny/t-case falling on your head is gonna hurt!!

-The tranny/t-case comes out...................hopefully. Definately a two person job at this point IMO. Lower the jack about 1"-2". With one person (from passenger side) in charge of the jack and kinda supporting the front of the tranny, and the other person (driver's side) holding the t-case, start to pull the tranny/t-case combo towards the back. Remember that there is a side-to-side weight difference in this whole thing because the t-case is off to the driver's side. Move the combo far enough to seperate the the bellhousing from the engine, then rest the front of the tranny on the radius arm crossmember. Then, slowly, lower the jack until the t-case is on the ground. Then place jack under the front of the tranny and gently go up and back, while sliding the t-case on the floor, then down with the jack. Then both people can lift the front of the tranny and put it to the side of the jack.

Pull tranny/t-case combo out to the side of the truck................spit and cause at it for being a PITA to get out, and go grab a beer and have a smoke.

Back under truck.............

-Remove pressure and clutch plate..................six bolts, falls out.

-Remove flywheel....................six bolts, in the middle, while placing a pry bar across two of the "studs" on the wheel should give enough leverage. Take the flywheel to get turned.



So, this is the point we are at right now because of time. I think it may have taken us less time to do it than it took me to write this! :rolleyes: Should get into finishing it up sometime next week, and since I have written this much, I might as well write about that also. So, until then..............
 




NOTAJP

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Thanks Robb for the great writeup.
 




Nick26

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so you never finished?? ;) j/k

im going to be changing my clutch on my 99 and I'm hoping most of this will apply for me too, so if there was a continuation of this writeup let me know so i can read up on it! thanks
 




elkhunter

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I am trying to pull the 4.0 engine on our 91 and the second bolt up on the right side is TIGHT! I have tried everything but slightly rounded the bolt head. I beat a 1/2 inch socket clear on to the bolt head and now waiting for wife to 'fire watch' as I heat the part of the engine holding this bolt. The heat won't hurt a thing cause the POS engine is going to the dump!
 




Nick26

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elkhunter said:
I am trying to pull the 4.0 engine on our 91 and the second bolt up on the right side is TIGHT! I have tried everything but slightly rounded the bolt head. I beat a 1/2 inch socket clear on to the bolt head and now waiting for wife to 'fire watch' as I heat the part of the engine holding this bolt. The heat won't hurt a thing cause the POS engine is going to the dump!


lmao, and that has relevance to this thread how?
 




Creager

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This thread should get more recognition; this should be a sticky or in the useful thread forms or something IMO. Haha, Ok I’m not the boss, but only because I have to look it up every so often: p
 




JOYOTA

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Creager said:
This thread should get more recognition; this should be a sticky or in the useful thread forms or something IMO. Haha, Ok I’m not the boss, but only because I have to look it up every so often: p
X2

Very helpful and it took a bit of searching to come up with it. It would be a nice sticky or fit well in a sticky FAQ up top :)

Chass
ct
 




RangerX

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Creager said:
This thread should get more recognition; this should be a sticky or in the useful thread forms or something IMO. Haha, Ok I’m not the boss, but only because I have to look it up every so often: p
I'll bet it hasn't because it's only half the job!

Want to finish the write-up? :D
 




Brock94

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RangerX said:
Want to finish the write-up? :D


Assembly is the reverse of removal. :thumbsup: ;)
 




RangerX

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I knew that was coming! :rolleyes: :D
 




Creager

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i could add pictures =)
 




Creager

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I'd like to add, that the two little tiny bolts ford put used to hold the bellhousing to the block on these transmissions, has to be pointless.

Obviously they are way too tiny to add any real support, i mean com'on, they stick out of the bellhousing by like 1/8th of an inch... whats that going to do? They bearly thread into the block! They might aswell ring the threads right out of there...

The bolt holes thread deep enough to support longer bolts. Or atleast on my 92' block they did. At first though you probably think there is some kind of oil passage back there or something behind there... there isnt, those holes are actually threaded just as deep as the top ones. I threw some new longer bolts in there, that are about the same length as the rest of the top bolts.

so why did ford put dinky little ~1.25" bolts in there?

I had them in there for about a year until i recently took my tranny off. No problems what so ever, with longer bolts... although, i guess the only thing using longer bolts does is make me feel better about it =)
 




Brock94

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OK-- Looks like we need to turn this thread into something worthy of the "Useful Threads" forum, so I'll try to update as I go through my clutch project especially as we go forward from where this left off (I'm not quite there yet), and see if I can't push the ball into the end zone.

I had a lot of trouble with one of the Y-pipe to manifold bolts. I had no problem getting access-- all of these bolts are a straight shot with 20 inches of extensions and a 15mm socket from below-- the problem was that the bolt closest to the passenger side of the truck was rusted badly and fused to the flange. I'm sure this bolt gets splashed with lots of salty water and slush because of its location. Over the course of 24 hours, I sprayed it a couple times with PB Blaster and some other penetrating oil that I had, but even with a breaker bar I couldn't get it to budge.

After a lot of trying, I realized that the four 3/8" extensions plus 1/2" adapter that I had strung together just had too much "spring" to them to carry enough torque to the bolt. I had to buy a 1/2" X 20" extension. I got back from Sears late last night, but I just couldn't stand thinking about that bolt laughing at me all week 'till I could get to it next weekend so at 10:30pm Sunday night, I used my new extension with the breaker bar and SUCCESS! The bolt finally gave up the fight.

Time to get the Y-Pipe out-- Same as Robb's truck, the bolts on that flange in front of the two cats are in bad shape and not worth messing with. I threw a jackstand under the tranny and removed the tranny cross-member to make it easier to slide the Y-pipe out with the two cats attached-- I wanted the cats out of my way anyway, so this was a good solution.

BTW-- Maybe someone who has done this before can chime in, but I am attempting this with the front wheels on ramps rather than trying to put jack-stands on blocks at the front of the frame rails. Just looking at it, this seems to give me enough clearance. I guess time will tell, but I can always jack it up later if I have too.

It's amazing how much access you get by taking some of these parts off, but now I see that my brake lines and what I think is the fuel vapor return line are pretty rusty. I guess I may want to take a couple detours along the way.


.
 




Brock94

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I got a chance to work on the Explorer again yesterday after work. I'll try to get some pictures posted tonight or tomorrow.

I now have the transmission off and I have removed the old clutch and the flywheel.

Removing the shift lever-- I tried to follow the instructions above and remove the three torx screws, but I couldn't get my torx socket on them with the shift lever in place. As it turns out, it's not necessary to remove the three torx screws. There's what looks like a threaded stud that goes through the base of the shift lever. It has a nut on the side that points toward the front of the X. I took the nut off, but couldn't get the stud out until I realized that what you have to do is thread the nut onto the other (back) end of the stud and tighten until the stud loosens up and slides out (it has a taper that squeezes against the shaft on the tranny to hold it in place).

Starter. Here's why the starter must go-- Although it is on the engine side, the bolts that hold it in place are threaded into the transmission bell-housing. I had a hard time getting access to the upper bolt because there was not enough room to swing the ratchet handle. I was able to loosen it one click at a time until it was loose enough to use an air ratchet to take it the rest of the way. There's really no reason for a serious DIYer not to have air tools-- I bought a complete cheapo set for $99 from Home Depot. Not the best, but they sure save a lot of headaches.

Finally! Time to remove the bell housing bolts and the tranny. These bolts take a 13mm socket. From reading other posts I was afraid of the two upper bolts. They were very easy to get and it did not require laying on top of the engine and busting knuckles. Take a flashlight under the truck and look up at the top of the bell housing at the back of the engine. When you get the angle of the light correct, you'll see the the top bolt (one on each side). The formula I used to reach it was 1/2" ratchet, 20" x 1/2" extension (see it already paid for itself twice on this job), 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 3/8" u-joint, 13mm socket. Get a light shining on that bolt so you can see what you're doing and and you can use this set-up to reach the bolt from the side of the tranny. The other bolts were easy. I left one of the side bolts loose, but threaded in until I had the jack in place-- probably not necessary, but better safe than sorry.

Put a jack stand under the engine oil pan with a piece of wood in between. Do this unless you want your fan to smash into your radiator when the engine flops down.

I have a tranny jack that I bought from Harborfreight-- not that expensive either if your going to use it at least 2 or 3 times in your life. If you don't have one and are going to use the method above (with a regular floor jack), definately have a friend help. If you have a tranny jack, the friend is optional.

Line up the tranny jack, lift the tranny slightly to remove the jackstand supporting it, lower the tranny slightly until the engine rests on the other jackstand and to provide clearance to reach over the tranny and strap/chain the jack in place (I recommend a ratcheting tie-down strap to really hold it well.)

Now adjust the tranny jack up and down as necessary to neutralize any weight that may be on the engine so the tranny will slide out. Remove that last bolt. Work the tranny from side to side a little bit to break it loose as you pull back on it-- be sure to stay to the side where you can get out of the way if it falls. Once it's free of the engine, you'll have to work it backwards, lowering it slowly as you go to clear everything. (The tranny jack gives you tons of control.)

I'm doing this with the truck on normal ramps rather than jackstands on blocks and the ramps provide plenty of clearance-- I don't have a lift installed. I don't know if I could slide the tranny out from under the truck, but I was able to leave it attached to the jack and under the truck out of the way. This should make it a lot easier to reinstall, because I won't have to position it on the jack again. If I wanted to slide the tranny out, I'm sure I could use a floor jack to lift one side of the truck enough to do that, but why bother?

Next, remove the six small bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate in place and remove the pressure plate. With the bolts removed, I had to use a prybar because the alignment studs on the flywheel were rusted into the pressure plate. Just be careful not to ding the surface of the flywheel.

There was a ton of oil in the bell housing, but it seems to be running down from the top of the engine-- my valve covers are leaking pretty bad and it looks like the oil is coming from there, but I'm going to change out the rear main seal anyway (in addition to the valve cover seals, but that's another project-- Hmmm, brake lines, fuel vapor line, valve covers-- this thing is escalating fast). The clutch does not seem to be contaminated by the oil as I thought it would be, but it is worn down to the rivets. That explains the slipping.

Flywheel. The flywheel is held on with six bolts. I've read about people jamming a screwdriver into the starter ring gear to hold it still while removing these, but I have an impact gun, so these are a piece of cake. One safety note though-- before removing all of the bolts, thread one of the loose top bolts back in a few turns to prevent the heavy flywheel-- and its very sharp ring-gear teeth-- from falling on your face. Wear heavy gloves when handling the flywheel too (did I say those teeth are sharp?). Hold the flywheel, remove that loose bolt, carefully lay the flywheel on top of the radius arm cross-member, then lower it down and take it to a machine shop to get it turned.

An interesting note-- the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel itself. Maybe all cars are like this, but I thought it would be pressed into the crankshaft. I've never done this before.

Well, that's as far as I got for now. More later, and hopefully some pics.

On reassembly, I'm planning to replace the rear crankshaft seal, pilot bearing and the slave cylinder in addition to the clutch components. I'm also going to clean up all the oil and fix the miscelaneous stuff noted above.




.
 




ma96782

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Bravo........halfway there :thumbsup:

Aloha, Mark
 








Creager

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With the body lift, i was able to get the top two bolts by going through the wheel well.
 




Brock94

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Well, I have the flywheel back. I was surprised that it was $35 since I've read on here that it should be about $20, but I guess this part of Connecticut is probably expensive compared to other places.

I'm ready to start putting this together and I'd like any advice you guys want to give. I've read the CD version of the FSM and the Haynes manual so I have a feel for the basic steps. My questions are as follows:

1) I tried to index the flywheel per the Haynes instructions, but the thing at the center of the flywheel turne out to be attached to the flywheel, so I have no idea how it was lined up-- is the engine going to rip itself to shreds when I start it? (I doubt it, but thought I should ask since everyone seems to say you should index this thing.)

2) Flywheel bolts-- The Haynes manual says to put "thread locking compound" on the bolts. Does this mean the blue stuff? The old bolts have something on them already that is somewhere between grease and silicone sealant in consistency. Is there something special I'm supposed to coat these with, or should I just reinstall them-- I haven't cleaned them yet.

3) Can I remove the old pilot bearing from the flywheel with a punch?-- it's pressed into the center of the flywheel and looks like I could just tap it out from the back and tap the new one in with a plastic hammer.

4) Any other things I might not know about putting everything together (other than the obvious step-by-step from the manuals)?
 


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Nick26

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Brock94 said:
Well, I have the flywheel back. I was surprised that it was $35 since I've read on here that it should be about $20, but I guess this part of Connecticut is probably expensive compared to other places.
yeah i think it ended up being about that much for me too in MA.

Brock94 said:
I'm ready to start putting this together and I'd like any advice you guys want to give. I've read the CD version of the FSM and the Haynes manual so I have a feel for the basic steps. My questions are as follows:

1) I tried to index the flywheel per the Haynes instructions, but the thing at the center of the flywheel turne out to be attached to the flywheel, so I have no idea how it was lined up-- is the engine going to rip itself to shreds when I start it? (I doubt it, but thought I should ask since everyone seems to say you should index this thing.)
I don't think you have to worry about this really. When I did it I think i colored a tooth with a sharpie and drew a line on the engine plate.

Brock94 said:
2) Flywheel bolts-- The Haynes manual says to put "thread locking compound" on the bolts. Does this mean the blue stuff? The old bolts have something on them already that is somewhere between grease and silicone sealant in consistency. Is there something special I'm supposed to coat these with, or should I just reinstall them-- I haven't cleaned them yet.
typically there is stuff called loctite i think. It's red. either way don't use the old stuff, clean them off and put some new stuff on.


Brock94 said:
3) Can I remove the old pilot bearing from the flywheel with a punch?-- it's pressed into the center of the flywheel and looks like I could just tap it out from the back and tap the new one in with a plastic hammer.
I believe thats how i did it.

Brock94 said:
4) Any other things I might not know about putting everything together (other than the obvious step-by-step from the manuals)?
I gravity bled my slave cylinder and that was pretty easy. Just connected it and left it over night. Came back the next day and put more fluid in and pumped the clutch a few times and it was all set.
 




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