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1st gen explorer sas

Front
Dana 44 out of 79 f250. $300 with rims
Wild horse 5.5 coils $189
Duff rear coil buckets 2 inches shorter than normal ads 2 inch lift $ 119
7 degree wedges $50
F150 radius arms lengthened 12 inches with ballistic joints $50+ $30
Newer super duty draglink $ 22
Trac bar and bracket ballistic fab $75
Stock chevy brake lines $10
Caliper rebuild kits $20
Rear
Dana 60 full float from same truck $300 with rims
Soa with stock leafs $22
2 inch lift shackles $0
1310-1330 rear ujoint $20

TOTAL SPENT 1186 PLUS SOME MISC THINGS
Im done just dont have a front Driveshafts and i think thats it also. This was built on a teenage budget so no fancy. Things yet.

Thanks go to fourosprtand randall for solving my problems
 

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Randall

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Okay my last post was moved when it should be in the sas registry as it is basically done

Okay my driveshaft in the rear fits perfectly and i do not have the money for a new customeone but the u joint is tp small to mate up with the dana 60 is there an easy way to fix this
An can i use my ford explorer stock brakelines on the dana 44 calipers



Could be because the SAS Registry is for swaps that are completed.

You can get a bastard ujoint from many parts stores. You'll have to figure out whether your Dana 60 had a 1350 or 1410 yoke, and get a bastard ujoint that is that on one side, and the Explorer 1310 on the other. These types of ujoints are prone to breakage though, so I'd consider it a temporary fix. If your brake lines are long enough, which I doubt with the extra articulation you'll be getting from the SAS, you can use them, if they fit in the calipers. Some calipers take a different size. The ones on my Dana 60 take a Banjo bolt, for example.
 




jprentice94

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Just got two different set of break lines that are really long so im going to try those the ones for my d44 were short so hope it works and thanks for that u joint solution i dont have much money so it is going to have to work for now
 




jprentice94

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Also how would i tell what yoke i have as u can tell probably that im way out over my head now just tryin to get it done because were i live if u dont wheel a yota they say u shouldnt wheel so i wanna show off the ex
 








jprentice94

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Thanks for solving those little things itll be done soon
 




jprentice94

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So my $10 chevy brake lines work perfect almost to long and i found out that the dana 60 has a 3 3/4 inch u joint and the explorer u joint is 3 1/8 so i went to the oriellu trying to find one but that didnt work out but my friend that worls there said to get a difrent yoke
Also are the caps on the u joint different sizes because if they are then it will be simple then i thought
 




FROADER

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Okay my last post was moved when it should be in the sas registry as it is basically done
And i want to here from the people who have done sases and have experience. With them

Could be because the SAS Registry is for swaps that are completed.

I moved this to the Projects section because Randall is correct. Once you finish it, you can start a separate thread in the Registry with the info and pics in the first post.

Good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing it completed! :thumbsup:
 




jprentice94

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Well got my drive shaft done and brakes so just finish. Finish mytrack bar so id say its done
 




jprentice94

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So drove it home today and it seemed ok but my steering has a lot of play i now i have a bad tie rod on the draglink so i think thats why but not sure

also the rearend seemed like it had a lot of axle wrap could that be because i have no shock on the rear
 




jprentice94

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Now to decide if i should register my ex and put my z on non op or leave my ex on non op and register my z speed or my. Cruiser?
 




jprentice94

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So today i took it on its main voyage but really need some questions answered or lead me in the right direction. First i have no rear shocks on yet (yikes) feels like a nonstop speed bump ride could this cause it to walk a little when i hit a bump it feels like this could be a cause. Next i know i have 3 bad tie rods so im doing new steering could this also cause it to walk when i hit a bump. I feel like the combibation of both is making it walk about a foot over when i hit a bump. PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT .
p.s. my z might be taking a dump so need this done as fast as possible

In these pics when i was stock i basically high centered on the little part
 

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jprentice94

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So a big problem showed up all my shocks are to short my fronts are rancho rs 5000 idk what size but pretty sure they are maxed out my rears are stock and deffinetly maxed out so any recomendations
 

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Albino 94LTD

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jprentice94

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I want some bilstiens but dont know how they are dont have any exp with them
 




Kirby N.

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Can u take a pic from straight on of that front end with those wheels on and the width? I have been thinking over my next one full width with some stock wheels instead of my last one which was narrowed with the most offset wheels I could find! I would like to see the width of yours.
 




jprentice94

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It would be a little wider with different tires
 

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FROADER

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Can u take a pic from straight on of that front end with those wheels on and the width? I have been thinking over my next one full width with some stock wheels instead of my last one which was narrowed with the most offset wheels I could find! I would like to see the width of yours.
Check Stic_o's. I believe he's got close to stock back spacing with the full width d44.
 




james t

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I believe your bumpsteer was/is mainly caused by worn steering components, and the track bar and drag link isn't parallel. This was probably magnified by not having rear shocks.
 


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jprentice94

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I got shocks and replaced the bad tie rods but the drg link and trac bar are still not parellel and it seems to have gone away but no sway bars are a little crazy lol but can you recomend some shocks right know im using the stock ones. And they limit pretty easily
 




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